Jeanneau NC 895 - please start new subject specific threads

[bluedart]

Thanks for the reply North,

as far as voiding the warranty, that makes no sense.  the flush occurs when the engine is off and is the same as what occurs when you do it manually( and step on all the steering hoses in the motor well.)  

Did they explain their rational for this statement?  in theory you have a full warranty if you never flush the motors and doing it with manifold is certainly better than nothing.

I wonder how they warranty all the Grady White boats with a flush manifold as standard equipment.  (My guess is that was designed for Grady as a propriety system and they will not sell separately )  i Have been trying to order one and Grady will not sell without a registered Grady boat.  (very annoying as it is a better system and should at least be available from Yamaha as an option to better protect our engines) 

[ssisailor]

Jan 10, 2020 0:37:27 GMT north34 said:

Hi Milt,

I have a 2018 NC 895 and was told not to install a manifold on the Yamaha's for quick flushing. I was going to build a Tee System so I could easily connect and flush both engines at the same time, but was told it would void the warranty. I built a hose manifold instead that I can connect to both engines with a quick disconnect off the dock. The easiest way for me to disconnect starboard engine is to lay across the port engine. 

I always leave my battery switch's on even on shore power.  The house battery runs the bilge, so don't shut them off. I don't think I can hear the stern pump unless the hatch is up.

You shouldn't have a bunch of water in the bilge area.  You should contact the dealer about sealing all of the deck penetrations.  I think you may have an issue around one of the deck fittings not being packed well enough to prevent water from leaking through the deck. 

I have the generator as well.   ON mine the main start switch is down across the mid berth, which is the only way to start the blower so I usually always start it here.  I do have a switch directly on the generator that I've used before as well.  Make sure the thru port valves are open and remember to change the zincs on the heat exchanger often.  They are easy to change, but can be forgotten about.    

I hope that helps.  Good Luck. Brett.

Thanks Brett,

I was also told by my dealer not to modify anything on the Yamaha's that could void warranty.  I'm going to do exactly what you did: a manifold that I can quickly connect to both motors.

Ever since I have kept both shore power switches in the on position, I've had no water in the bilge.  That doesn't mean I don't have a leaks.  I will have my dealer take a look.

Milt

Thanks Brett,



I was also told by my dealer not to modify anything on the Yamaha's that could void warranty. I'm going to do exactly what you did: a manifold that I can quickly connect to both motors.



Ever since I have kept both shore power switches in the on position, I've had no water in the bilge. That doesn't mean I don't have a leaks. I will have my dealer take a look.



Milt

[ssisailor]

Jan 10, 2020 16:48:39 GMT bluedart said:

as far as voiding the warranty, that makes no sense.  the flush occurs when the engine is off and is the same as what occurs when you do it manually( and step on all the steering hoses in the motor well.)  

Bluedart, what I was planning to do was extend the tubing of the flushing system and leave it on the motor permanently.  My dealer was worried that it could kink and interrupt flow, leading to overheating.  If I'm reading North's system correctly, the manifold he uses is detached from the motors when the motors are in operation.

[scottyftlaud]

Hello All.

New member here with a brand new NC 895 Sport located in Fort Lauderdale. Its a beautiful boat with lots of features, and we are looking forward to the all around versatility the boat offers.

After bringing her home late last month (December 2019), almost immediately, my neighbor noticed the boat listing to starboard. Its a couple inches difference based on looking at the bottom paint, very noticeable from his dock, not at all from ours. We did not notice the list during the sea trials. The only cruising has been at relative low speed, no wake zones. So I can't tell about performance issues or how the boat would react under full power. (We are still under the engine break in period, less than 20 hours, so yes, this is a brand new boat) Anyways, she is back at the dealer and thus far, they have been unsuccessful trying to determine the cause of the weight imbalance, or the listing. They are talking to Jeanneau engineers to try to figure things out and may have to move batteries around. The importance is staying within the warranty. This is their first NC 895 Sport, so there isn't another to compare it to.

Has anyone else had a new boat list, and what corrected the problem? Scratching our heads here. 

[lynnardm]

Scotty

Congrats on your new boat. Does your boat have ballast? The regular NC895’s do. It’s located Mid ship port side Under the 2nd berth removable plywood floor, outboard of the water tank, there is an additional piece of plywood under the floor plywood screwed down to the structure. There are a couple hundred pounds of lead weights glued to the hull in this compartment. Perhaps your Sport is supposed to have similar ballast, and perhaps they forgot it. It’s worth checking. On a different subject... I’ve considered that this would be a great location to add a battery pack without adding any weight to the boat. For example, add a few batteries that weight 150 lbs and remove 150 lbs of weights. They would need to be AGM as they would need to be laid on their sides and due to the minimal venting need of AGM,s. But I’m on a
Tangent... Installation of ballast, Besides the other obvious loading stuff, is worth a look for your boat

Capt’n Lynn



Work those motors during the 20 hr break in.

[scottyftlaud]

Thanks for the suggestions and I will show your post to the dealer.  

[scyc]

I have also purchased my 2020 NC895 from Dunbar Yachts in Saint Simons last October delivery. Love the boat, but one question, can the steering ratio be changed. I feel like the steering is way too loose. Any thoughts?

[bluedart]

I agree with the steering ratio comment above.  i also detailed my complaint and research.  I don't think it can be changed unless you remove one of the two steering cylinders at the motors and just use the tie bar to steer the second. Jeanneau may have used two cylinders (one for each motor) to get offshore status.  i looked on the steering manufacturers site and one cylinder is acceptable for our size boat.  it reduces the steering turns by two.  i think it was 7.5 down to 5 or so.  

i am installing auto pilot this winter and will see if it still bothers me ( the number of turns ).  

the only other solution I see is a larger displacement helm pump.  

[lynnardm]

There was some previous discussion on this subject. My 895 with the single 300 has one (larger) steering cylinder and it’s a manual pump (not power assist). This is a nice setup although a little hard for my wife to turn the wheel. I expect that this f300 engine weight and power with the one cylinder and manual pump results in about the most steering force that one would want to deal with. If I remember correctly its about half the amount of steering wheel turns full port to full starboard that an 895 requires with the two cylinders and the twins. If a single cylinder pump for the benefits of “quicker” steering was desired given the force that the weight and power of the twins require I would speculate that a Motorized assist steering pump would be the way to go. And of course an option if going to motorized assist would be to keep the two cylinders but with a higher capacity pump. Anyone have a motorized hydraulic pump for steering assist?

Capt’n
Lynn

[north34]

Jan 23, 2020 23:21:42 GMT north34 said:

Jan 11, 2020 17:19:33 GMT ssisailor said:

Bluedart, what I was planning to do was extend the tubing of the flushing system and leave it on the motor permanently.  My dealer was worried that it could kink and interrupt flow, leading to overheating.  If I'm reading North's system correctly, the manifold he uses is detached from the motors when the motors are in operation

Milt/Bluedart, I agree it doesn't make much sense for not being able to install a manifold to ease motor flushing but that's what the dealer told me.  I suspect it one of those easy any modifications to the engine voids the warranty statements.  I have a hose manifold that I keep in the dock box and hook up each time.  It work pretty good and makes it so I can isolate or run both at they same time.  Let us know if you find something from Yamaha.  Brett - North 34

[kneedeep]

The Flush connector on the motor is a blind fitting, no flow. The flush connector attached to the rubber tube should be blocked when not flushing or running. It is simple to rig a double hose with a y fitting, with shutoffs to each motor. When you want to flush, hook up a hose to the feed side of the y valve and open both valves on it. When done make sure you close valves and you have essentially the exact setup as if flush connectors where connected to blind fittings on the motors. Can't see how this could possibly impact the warranty and really shoudl be standard equipment to encourage people to flush the motors.

I switched the trim tab control with the bow thruster control, easy quick change and puts the trim tab control where you can see it. I rarely use the thruster and it is fine in the lower position as you don't need to see any indicator lights.

Sea Ya

[ssisailor]

Jan 28, 2020 15:03:50 GMT kneedeep said:

The Flush connector on the motor is a blind fitting, no flow.

I was wondering about this.  Thank you for this info.

[VickeyS]

Jan 16, 2020 18:43:52 GMT scottyftlaud said:

Hello All.

New member here with a brand new NC 895 Sport located in Fort Lauderdale. Its a beautiful boat with lots of features, and we are looking forward to the all around versatility the boat offers.

After bringing her home late last month (December 2019), almost immediately, my neighbor noticed the boat listing to starboard. Its a couple inches difference based on looking at the bottom paint, very noticeable from his dock, not at all from ours. We did not notice the list during the sea trials. The only cruising has been at relative low speed, no wake zones. So I can't tell about performance issues or how the boat would react under full power. (We are still under the engine break in period, less than 20 hours, so yes, this is a brand new boat) Anyways, she is back at the dealer and thus far, they have been unsuccessful trying to determine the cause of the weight imbalance, or the listing. They are talking to Jeanneau engineers to try to figure things out and may have to move batteries around. The importance is staying within the warranty. This is their first NC 895 Sport, so there isn't another to compare it to.

Has anyone else had a new boat list, and what corrected the problem? Scratching our heads here. 

Update: mine is listing to starboard also, about the same amount you report. Today I took it back to the dealer, the list is now on his list. Have you figured anything out yet?

Hello and congrats on your new boat! I also have a 2020 NC 895 Sport just delivered about a month ago. What a fun boat! I will check it for listing next time it is in the water (stowed in a marina high and dry barn), but no one has noticed any yet and it has had lots of attention plus two training captains aboard. I have two batteries mounted in the large aft cockpit lazarette, port side in the enclosed box. No generator but do have an autopilot mounted in the starboard side box. Are your batteries on the starboard side? Do you have a generator? If so, where is it mounted? 

I think these are the only two Sport models in Florida right now, we should keep in touch about issues and solutions. I have around 60 hours on the engines and lots of trips in the St. Joseph Sound and Gulf in the Clearwater area. I have found that she does not like a beam sea/big wake and of course has windage galore. Otherwise, she gets on plane fast and is fun to drive. Docking is easy with the two engines and bow thruster in a pinch. Especially like the port side design with integrated step for non-floating docks. One question, is your bilge dry? I have just a bit of water in mine, not enough to trigger the pumps. Enjoy your boat!

[kneedeep]

Has anyone come up with a dinghy storage solution? I currently store it on the coachroof but would like it closer to the water.

[lynnardm]

Today I installed an electric pump/macerator conversion for the toilet on my 895. My wife will love it. It’s not a difficult job if one is familiar with wire routing and the electrical panels on their boat. If anyone is interested in doing this let me know and I’ll provide details.

Capt’n Lynn

[mikenewport]

Hi all, I am new member, Mike at Newport Beach CA. I am in the process of buying my 1st boat, 2020 NC895, and have some questions about buying boat. 1. Pros and Cons for 150 vs 200 engines for most low speed cruising? 2. There are a few additional items, freight for $7500, commission $3000, and bottom paint $2400 for salt water are they normal? Particularly, why additional bottom paint? 3. Can I ask for discount? If yes, what’s reasonable or practical?% to ask. Thank you for your help in advance.

[njtaxman]

My NC895 did not come with forward birth overhead cabinets. I have asked my dealer and they said cabinets are not available.  Has any purchased after market cabinets, if so where. Also, any pictures would be appreciated.

[lynnardm]

Mar 5, 2020 13:46:34 GMT mikenewport said:

Hi all, I am new member, Mike at Newport Beach CA. I am in the process of buying my 1st boat, 2020 NC895, and have some questions about buying boat. 1. Pros and Cons for 150 vs 200 engines for most low speed cruising? 2. There are a few additional items, freight for $7500, commission $3000, and bottom paint $2400 for salt water are they normal? Particularly, why additional bottom paint? 3. Can I ask for discount? If yes, what’s reasonable or practical?% to ask. Thank you for your help in advance.

Hi Mike,

Welcome aboard. I'd expect the performance of the twin 150's relative to MPG at hull speeds and at slow to medium on-plane cruise speed would be about the same as the twin 200's.  Although I don't personally have any test data to support this.  The twin 150's should be plenty of power to get up on plane and to hold on plane similar to a single F300 which is what I have on my 895.  The single F300 will beat the twins by quite a bit at hull speed MPG and of for on-going maintenance cost.  The twin 150's similar to the single F300 would have 5-10 MPH less WOT speed than the twin 200's.  If going for the twin 150's, I recommend against mechanical controls and would only consider twins if they have electronic controls.  Some years ago I had a boat with twins and mechanical control and its a constant hassle to keep the RPM's in sync manually.  Twin F175's are also a good option but for some reason you don't hear much about them.  THe prices you listed for the other items are reasonable and in line with industry standard.  The boats do not come from the factory with bottom paint so unless you keep it on a trailer and out of the water except for a few days in a row its needed to keep growth off the bottom.  Keep in mind that the type of bottom paint is important depending upon if you keep your boat in the water all the time or not.  And finally, you certainly should ask for a discount.  I asked for one and I got one.  I don't know whats reasonable.  I guess that depends on how much if any that the dealer marked the boat up above the MSRP.

Captn Lynn

[jgmallo]

Mar 5, 2020 2:57:16 GMT lynnardm said:

Today I installed an electric pump/macerator conversion for the toilet on my 895. My wife will love it. It’s not a difficult job if one is familiar with wire routing and the electrical panels on their boat. If anyone is interested in doing this let me know and I’ll provide details.

Capt’n Lynn

Hello Lynn,

I am interested to know which part number you use for the conversion kit. If you can post some pics of the installation will be great also.


Thanks!

[ramon]

Capt'n Lynn,


I also need to have a happy wife! Would love to see details and pic's of your toilet converson.

[mikenewport]

Mar 5, 2020 22:18:33 GMT lynnardm said:

Mar 5, 2020 13:46:34 GMT mikenewport said:

Hi all, I am new member, Mike at Newport Beach CA. I am in the process of buying my 1st boat, 2020 NC895, and have some questions about buying boat. 1. Pros and Cons for 150 vs 200 engines for most low speed cruising? 2. There are a few additional items, freight for $7500, commission $3000, and bottom paint $2400 for salt water are they normal? Particularly, why additional bottom paint? 3. Can I ask for discount? If yes, what’s reasonable or practical?% to ask. Thank you for your help in advance.

Hi Mike,

Welcome aboard. I'd expect the performance of the twin 150's relative to MPG at hull speeds and at slow to medium on-plane cruise speed would be about the same as the twin 200's.  Although I don't personally have any test data to support this.  The twin 150's should be plenty of power to get up on plane and to hold on plane similar to a single F300 which is what I have on my 895.  The single F300 will beat the twins by quite a bit at hull speed MPG and of for on-going maintenance cost.  The twin 150's similar to the single F300 would have 5-10 MPH less WOT speed than the twin 200's.  If going for the twin 150's, I recommend against mechanical controls and would only consider twins if they have electronic controls.  Some years ago I had a boat with twins and mechanical control and its a constant hassle to keep the RPM's in sync manually.  Twin F175's are also a good option but for some reason you don't hear much about them.  THe prices you listed for the other items are reasonable and in line with industry standard.  The boats do not come from the factory with bottom paint so unless you keep it on a trailer and out of the water except for a few days in a row its needed to keep growth off the bottom.  Keep in mind that the type of bottom paint is important depending upon if you keep your boat in the water all the time or not.  And finally, you certainly should ask for a discount.  I asked for one and I got one.  I don't know whats reasonable.  I guess that depends on how much if any that the dealer marked the boat up above the MSRP.

Captn Lynn

[mikenewport]

Capt Lynn, 
Thank you so much for your help. Your commends are very valuable for my decision. 
Mike

[lynnardm]

Here are details on the electric toilet pump/macerator upgrade.  And I finally figured out how to get the picture links from imgur and inbed them here.  Load your images into imgur, go to one of the images and in the dots in upper rt corner select Get Share Links, click on the BBCode (Forums) text and then click Copy Link, go back to the forum item that you are creating and paste the copied link where you want the image.


The first picture (below) shows the removed manual pump laying on the box of the conversion kit.  If you do save the manual pump and keep it in your boat (in case of an elec pump failure) don't forget to also keep the old base seal/flapper (not showing in the pic).

2nd pic shows the elec pump installed.  Don't forget to shut off the water inlet valve before starting removal or you might sink your boat. Installation is straightforward by removing the old pump and reattaching the new one and the fittings.  I did have to shorten the upper water outlet hose a bit.  For the other small hose (water inlet) I did need to cut it off the old pump as it wouldn't pull off.  But losing an inch or so in length wasn't a problem. I did reroute it on the aft side of the large outlet hose to allow it to line up with the new pump fitting.   THis pic also shows the wiring before heat shrink and before tucking the wires into place and adding wire straps.  The large white cover on the red wire is the cover over the fuse.  This is supplied.  I did shorten the provided wires by quite a bit.  On the wiring that I supplied coming from the power source I used size 10 sheathed.  Size 12 would have been adequate but the store was out of stock.  I did have to use step down butt connectors as the supplied wiring connected to the pump was size 14.




For the 3rd pic - after heat shrinking the connectors I tucked them behind the pump and secured to the inlet hose with 2 wire ties which are shown in the picture.  The wires have a loop in them behind the pump although you can't see it.  THis allows just enough room to pull up and clear the pump a bit in case I need to check/change the fuse. 

THe 4th pic shows the wire routing within the sink cabinet.  It follows the large outlet hose through the bulkhead into the next forward compartment where the waste storage tank (and a lot of other stuff) is installed.  You can see two wire ties restraining the wire.

In the 5th pic I'm pointing to the wire after it exits the bulkhead and then heads up.  You can see that I followed the path of some existing wiring as it heads up and also added several wire ties.  You will also see another white sheathed wire heading up in this same group of wires.  That's the wire that goes to the electric water level sensor that I installed in the water tank.  At the top of the pic the wire disappears into the darkness and the maze of other wiring.  This is the area below and just out of reach from the fuse panel access area in the head.

Pic 6 shows the wire exiting out of the fuse panel access door in the head.  I suggest starting the routing of the wire from this point to the area shown in the top of pic 5.  It is simple if one understands how to do it.  If you start from my finger and go up into the bottom of all those wires, then go starboard (left in the picture) perhaps 5", that's where the wire heads straight down (between fiberglass wall panels) into the area shown in pic 5.  Start by gently working your hand into this area wherever there is room between the existing wiring then pass the wire through your hand gently guiding it straight down.  It should only take a few tries to get through, and you don't have to go too far before the wire will appear  below.  This is a good time to have a helper watching below (as in pic 5) to yell "There it is!" when it appears.  From this point continue working the routing down and forward toward the toilet as shown in the proceeding pictures.  Once you reach the toilet then maneuver the other end (where you started near the fuse panel) a bit as needed to be in a good position to head out toward the fuse panels.  I routed the wire in the area above my finger underneath the existing wiring rather than leaving it on top of the existing wiring which is where it was after it was pushed down as just described, and then down to the fuse panel.  I had 11 feet of wire.  That was just enough for a bit of slack where needed so to be on the safe side get 12' and cut off what you don't need.

In pic 7 I have my finger resting on the hot and neutral wires just a bit from where I connected them to power and ground.  Don't forget to turn the power off before messing with this.  Of note is that the hot connection here is not fused.  The fuse is in the wire at the toilet.  Of importance is the necessity to assure the wiring accommodates the door opening and closing without binding or getting pinched or stressing other wires.  The bend shown in the wire at the top of this pic was put in the wire to help with this and basically follows the same path used with the existing wiring.  Also note the 3 black wire straps installed near the fuse block.  I don't have any wire straps up in the area of the bend so the wires can flex when opening and closing the access door.  Even with this I still need to "help" the wires a bit by pushing them away from the door edge so they don't pinch as I close the access door.  Also of note is that I needed to file a bit off the edge of the clear plastic fuse block cover (not installed in the pic) to provide clearance for the yellow ground wire that I installed.

I added pic 8 just to show more detail of how the bend in the wire is formed to allow for flex to accommodate the door opening and closing.  In this pic you can also see how I routed the new wire underneath the other in this area as mentioned above.

Good luck if you decide to take this on.  It looks a bit hard but if you have experience with this sort of thing its not too difficult.  It will make your wife happy  :')

Captn Lynn

[kneedeep]

Mar 5, 2020 17:50:31 GMT njtaxman said:

My NC895 did not come with forward birth overhead cabinets. I have asked my dealer and they said cabinets are not available.  Has any purchased after market cabinets, if so where. Also, any pictures would be appreciated.

Call another dealer. I bought mine without the cabinets as Cadillac was not installing them at the time. I was able to buy them after and installed them myself.

[westboating]

Mar 5, 2020 13:46:34 GMT mikenewport said:

Hi all, I am new member, Mike at Newport Beach CA. I am in the process of buying my 1st boat, 2020 NC895, and have some questions about buying boat. 1. Pros and Cons for 150 vs 200 engines for most low speed cruising? 2. There are a few additional items, freight for $7500, commission $3000, and bottom paint $2400 for salt water are they normal? Particularly, why additional bottom paint? 3. Can I ask for discount? If yes, what’s reasonable or practical?% to ask. Thank you for your help in advance.

Mike,

     I recommend the twin 200s.  I ran into a great guy this summer cruising to Victoria BC.  Our boats looked identical other than the 150s he was sporting.  I'll caveat this with the statement, he and his wife had this boat well decked out, and maybe a bit heavier than average, but he was not pleased with the performance.  I have the twin 200s and we live around 1.55 KNM/gal.  This captain claimed to be lucky to get 1.25 at the optimum planning speed which happens for us at around 24 Kts. 

I'm a bit weight conscious as I want to be able to tow this boat once or twice a year with a lighter truck.  So I ordered my boat with the single 300.  Due to delivery delays and the dealers limited interest in installing the single (as the factory only wanted to build twins) I elected to take a twin 200 boat, and I'm very glad we did.  Capt Lynn did so great work and prop research to get the most out of his 300, but you'd be pushing the same power with more engine weight and more drag in the water from the lower units of two outboards.

As for weights, I've weighed her several times and she's a bit heavier than they say to the order 9,700 lbs or so, and that's without a generator or AC.

It's the most boat you can get under 30 ft.

Good luck,

West