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Post by iancymru on Nov 16, 2014 18:32:42 GMT
Hello only 2 months til I get delivery of a 33i and was wondering if anyone has info on the battery set up on this boat, it will have 2 x 12v house batteries and a start battery I was wondering if a) there is a switching arrangement where the house batteries can be used to start the engine and b) if there is any battery monitoring gauge, which would be handy to monitor battery status and how much draw various equipment uses.
Cheers Ian
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Post by Don Reaves on Nov 16, 2014 19:35:43 GMT
Only a guess based on my SO35, but I would think the answers are both "No."
Don
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Post by iancymru on Nov 16, 2014 20:58:38 GMT
Cheers Don ,
I will ask the dealer if no gauge has anyone fitted one.
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Post by MalcolmP on Nov 17, 2014 9:58:34 GMT
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Post by Trevor on Nov 17, 2014 12:09:15 GMT
Hello, Certainly many years ago clamp meters could only read AC current but these days things are different for some clamp meters. I recently purchased this one www.ebay.com.au/itm/321268572353?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 and it is a very cheap, very effective DC clamp meter. I have used it recently and it is a very handy instrument. I agree about the jumper lead. A very simple solution to the problem of a flat starter battery. Regards, Trevor |
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Post by MalcolmP on Nov 17, 2014 12:25:15 GMT
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Post by iancymru on Nov 17, 2014 12:32:56 GMT
Thanks All
for the advice, jump leads a great idea and simple. Also the clamp meter looks a simple fix, does it measure the draw on a battery as it would be nice to know how much power various electrical items actually draw.
Ian
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Post by MalcolmP on Nov 17, 2014 13:54:58 GMT
Hi Ian
Trevor may also give a more considered comment, but if you use the clamp meter around the main negative return to the housebank, then with everything on the main panel initially switched off, you should (with an assistant) be able to record the current draw as you switch each item on separately - eg fridge, chartplotter, nav lights. Not instantaneous of course but should give you the info you need. Personally I was caught out by the amount of current the backlighting on my E80 chartplotter took when anchored (now tend to switch it off) so a good exercise
Malcolm
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Post by iancymru on Nov 17, 2014 14:30:34 GMT
Cheers Malcolm,
Exactly what I needed as on my last boat I was surprised in what drew what and like you was surprised how much the chart plotter on bright drew. I now use my iPad with isailor app at anchor which I have in the cabin with a very loud anchor drag alarm.
I also had a tactic log/depth display which also displayed battery voltage and was good to monitor when sailing with autopilot on, my new boat will have B&G instruments so will be interesting to see if it has this facility thanks again for your feed back as very useful tips gleaned. Ian
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Post by psychotiller on Nov 17, 2014 19:39:09 GMT
Jumper cables would most definitely be the easiest and cheapest way to ensure you have a backup battery to start the engine. One other option if your boat does not already have a battery isolation system in place would be something like the "Blue Sea Add-A-Battery" package. I installed this on my boat and have been very happy with it. With this system both battery banks always get charged but keeps them isolated under normal conditions yet enables you to combine the two systems in an emergency. here is a link for more information if you are interested: assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/sales_sheets/6833.pdf |
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Post by bikerwookie on Nov 17, 2014 22:13:56 GMT
My 33i has the additional house battery. 2x70ah house and a 70ah engine. There is a cristec blocking diode on mine between the banks. Its not actually diode but does a better job in a smarter way. I have never had any draw on the engine battery after shutting the engine off. There is no way to parallel the house and engine batteries but in an emergency you could just undo the nuts on the back of the 3 battery isolation switches.
There is a volt meter on the fuse panel that uses leds to show status of both banks.
Its a great system that requires no user intervention. I did however fit a master volt smart gauge because I'm paranoid of running the house batteries too low. In hindsight this is not really required.
One of the 70ah can be replaced in the same location with a 90ah.
Enjoy the boat.
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Post by iancymru on Nov 17, 2014 23:15:52 GMT
Cheers again for the info. As its getting close to delivery time I was trying to get my head around the electrics. Mine also will have an additional house battery and will probably get them to fit a battery monitor on the house battery side. Its reassuring to know there is the LED volt meters as I did not notice that when I viewed the boat. Hopefully thats the end to the extras list. (for the time being anyway.
Thanks Ian
PS Having this forum is a real plus
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Post by pbunning on Nov 22, 2014 10:32:50 GMT
I found that one of the house batteries and the engine battery were mounted in the battery box starboard side. The other house battery was mounted in the battery box port side - did cause me some confusion at first particularly because it is difficult to trace the wiring.
We managed to damage the house batteries in the first year so I replaced them with AGMs. On discussion with battery manufacturer I was told that it is possible to connect two different ampere hour batteries in parallel but would only get the equivalent ampere hour rate of the smallest x 2. Consequently I decided to locate the house batteries together in the starboard battery box and shopped around to see the max ampere hour batteries that physical fit - selected 2 x 85 AH. The engine battery was relocated to the port side.
I was not satisfied with the led battery state monitor on the main panel - impression I had that they were reading low, so I recently fitted a SmartGauge. Too early at this stage to give any meaningful feed back on this at the moment.
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Post by reverie on Nov 22, 2014 16:11:27 GMT
Hello pbunning,
I would be very interested in hearing your views on your new SmartGuage after you've had a chance to properly assess its performance. Based on what I've read, it looks like a very clever solution to maintaining an accurate read on the state of charge on a battery bank. Please do start a new thread with 'SmartGuage' in the subject line when you're ready.
Many thanks,
John
SO35
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Post by abgreenbank on Nov 25, 2014 11:23:10 GMT
Hi I have fitted a victron BMV700 to my 50DS, works a treat, it's really easy to install, especially if you have a hydraulic battery terminal crimper, around £50 on ebay, I was going to sell the crimper once I had finished adding batteries inverter etc but it's so useful, would like to find some cutting jaws for it so it will cut rigging wire. On my new this year boat I recon I have crimped around 50 terminals, so it's paid for itself. Don't know which batteries yours comes with but mine had exide sealed (blue in colour), found exact same ones on internet quite cheap so added 3, I can do 24hrs sailing and get down to around 75% on battery moniter. However your first job should be to put a galvanic isolator on the incoming earth, stirling one is well made waterproof and reasonably cheap. Have a look a Malcolm's new page on galvanic isolators.
remember do not accept the boat until all defects are accepted and most repaired, and make sure the antifouling is done as paint manufactures recommend. I found international and hempel very helpful on the phone.
im sure it will all go well but don't assume everything is done properly, check yourself and if unsure get a surveyor, remember there are reasons why thy insist on full payment before boat leaves factory. I was even told it was a mistake not to use finance as it offers more protection.
caveat emptor
rgrds
ab
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Post by extrabit on Jul 17, 2017 5:27:05 GMT
I found that one of the house batteries and the engine battery were mounted in the battery box starboard side. The other house battery was mounted in the battery box port side - did cause me some confusion at first particularly because it is difficult to trace the wiring. We managed to damage the house batteries in the first year so I replaced them with AGMs. On discussion with battery manufacturer I was told that it is possible to connect two different ampere hour batteries in parallel but would only get the equivalent ampere hour rate of the smallest x 2. Consequently I decided to locate the house batteries together in the starboard battery box and shopped around to see the max ampere hour batteries that physical fit - selected 2 x 85 AH. The engine battery was relocated to the port side. I was not satisfied with the led battery state monitor on the main panel - impression I had that they were reading low, so I recently fitted a SmartGauge. Too early at this stage to give any meaningful feed back on this at the moment. Hi, I have the same boat equipped with the same batteries. I was confused too and last hear I changed the motor battery but I thought it was the service one  Now I want to replace the domestic ones. How is your experience with the Varta you installed? I found a pair of the same batteries at a good price online...I hope to be able to change them by myself, I think I'll leave the cables as they are to avoid any confusion... thank you in advance for any information! best regards, gloria |
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Post by pbunning on Jul 18, 2017 11:27:40 GMT
Still using the Varta batteries for Boat. Not sure if they are still available. You do need to take measurements of the battery box to ensure batteries you select will fit. I fitted both the Varta boat batteries into the Starboard side battery box and relocated the engine battery to the port side - the cables were just long enough. Since then I have changed the engine battery (another AGM) but found I needed to fit new cables - I borrowed a hydraulic crimping tool - it is important to ensure the crimps are fitted correctly.
Peter
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Post by vasko on Jul 18, 2017 12:01:03 GMT
Still can't understand why someone will use something different from LiFePo4 with BMS battery system for the house bank... price is actually cheaper with the Li when the calculation is done...
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Post by ianpowolny on Jul 18, 2017 13:42:24 GMT
Still can't understand why someone will use something different from LiFePo4 with BMS battery system for the house bank... price is actually cheaper with the Li when the calculation is done... Vasko, for me it simple - the cost is too high and that doesn't take account of changing the sealed battery box for different sized batteries. If I get another 8 years out the new batteries I fitted this year I'll be happy oh and over 70!!! How much more sailing will I get done then? Extrabit, if the batteries you have, have lasted for a goodly period I'd just change like for like. I just couldn't be bothered with modifying the battery box but did manage to find some 147ah batteries that were the same foot print as our old 110ah ones. No box change and no cable change. Ian |
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Post by vasko on Jul 18, 2017 14:37:48 GMT
When you already has spend the money and you have batteries that does the job - there is no point changing them completely agree !
My wondering is when the battery bank has passed away and new set of batteries need to be sourced ...
offtopic Ian: if 110ah and 147ah has the same size - this is not good - I will give you only the result that I come to:
from the 110ah your safe amount to discharge should be about 50ah( assuming deep cycle battery) from a 147ah with the same box size should be 30ah .... if you get over this numbers you will significantly decrease the lifespan of the batteries ... for your sake I really hope that my calculations are wrong !
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Post by vasko on Jul 18, 2017 15:22:13 GMT
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Post by alenka on Jul 18, 2017 20:16:34 GMT
When you already has spend the money and you have batteries that does the job - there is no point changing them completely agree ! My wondering is when the battery bank has passed away and new set of batteries need to be sourced ... offtopic Ian: if 110ah and 147ah has the same size - this is not good - I will give you only the result that I come to: from the 110ah your safe amount to discharge should be about 50ah( assuming deep cycle battery) from a 147ah with the same box size should be 30ah .... if you get over this numbers you will significantly decrease the lifespan of the batteries ... for your sake I really hope that my calculations are wrong ! I am not sure that Jeanneau fit deep cycle batteries as standard. The SO 43 was/is three 110amp house batteries as standard but my understanding is that the space is not large enough for three 'Deep Cycle' 110 amp batts. Just changing my domestic battery bank (not currently deep cycle) which I believe has lasted six years. Not bad for a well used, sometimes abused, set of cheapish batteries. |
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Post by vasko on Jul 19, 2017 5:48:27 GMT
also possible to use dual purpose batteries e.g. : www.varta-automotive.com/en-be/products/varta-professional-dual-purpose btw : this is what they mean by long lasting : "Long-lasting – up to twice the cyclic stability of conventional flooded batteries (up to 200 cycles @ 50% DOD)" e.g. you can take about : 200 x 50 amps from the battery e.g if you have 4 of 105ah - then you can have about 200-400 days sailing of the batteries .... imagine now a worst quality batteries what will be the case ..... a friend of mine paid in greece for 5 x LFD75 = 680eur - e.g. not very far from 200ah LiPo4 ... |
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Post by alenka on Jul 19, 2017 6:25:59 GMT
also possible to use dual purpose batteries e.g. : www.varta-automotive.com/en-be/products/varta-professional-dual-purpose btw : this is what they mean by long lasting : "Long-lasting – up to twice the cyclic stability of conventional flooded batteries (up to 200 cycles @ 50% DOD)" e.g. you can take about : 200 x 50 amps from the battery e.g if you have 4 of 105ah - then you can have about 200-400 days sailing of the batteries .... imagine now a worst quality batteries what will be the case ..... a friend of mine paid in greece for 5 x LFD75 = 680eur - e.g. not very far from 200ah LiPo4 ... The link to the Varta batteries does not work. Your eBay ad is also for 'Refurbished Batteries' not brand new. Which seems to me a bit like buying a second hand car - you cannot be 100% sure of its history. If I am going to spend nearly £1,000 on a battery then I, personally, would pay the extra and buy new from a known reputable dealer. Sadly both eBay and Amazon have a significant percentage of rogue traders. I have personally had ads removed from eBay that I know not to be genuine. Equally, I have been a victim several times for fake goods from Amazon traders. I would also urge people buying small device batteries from a company called SLRhut to do so with caution.The batteries supplied were not genuine branded products as suggested. To add insult to injury with days of the trade my credit card details were being fraudulently used in their geographic location. |
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Post by vasko on Jul 19, 2017 6:38:53 GMT
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Now I want to replace the domestic ones. How is your experience with the Varta you installed?
