Removing teak from back step

[memornix]

I have a 2010 33i with the teak pealing up on the back step. It is laid in short 6-8" straps going fore and after and two of them have come completely off. We would like to remove the rest of them and re-bed the whole step but it seems like it will be a major pain to remove the teak and then the black adhesive underneath.

Any advice on removal?

[MalcolmP]

An oscillating multi tool will be your best friend for this.

[panoramix]

I chiselled mine out and put in a new faux teak piece. The color of the new teak is gray teak. Most people don't notice it's fake teak.



I leveled the new faux teak just high enough, so it always runs dry.

[memornix]

Sooo, sounding like no good way to remove and reuse the existing teak. The wood itself is in good shape, it just starting coming up and a few board actually came off completely. That said, of course the pieces that are still attached are really attached

[MalcolmP]

As two slats have already come off I suspect that an ossilating multi tool will be able to get under the next one and so on, and you will have every chance of lifting them without breaking so you can rebond.

[memornix]

Any good methods for removing the remaining black bedding?

[MalcolmP]

Mar 6, 2021 17:02:04 GMT memornix said:

Any good methods for removing the remaining black bedding?

I am no craftsman, but expect you will remove most with the oscillator head, then if you are careful a sharp chisel, will get most of the last bits of residue, then sand and clean down thoroughly with acetone before the sealant.

[panoramix]

I didn't remove all the black bedding. It saved me a lot of new sealant to bring the new piece of faux teak to the right height.

[dbostrom]

Not sure if this is in play any more but as Malcolm suggested, an oscillating tool (Bosch Multi-X in our case) with a wide scraper blade made magically short work of removing the strips and the bedding beneath. 

Once you've done that, may as well replace the extremely crappy cost-effective underlayment, which in our 2010 39i was failing at 6 years of age along the lines of a rotten sponge. Replaced with marine plywood soaked in penetrating epoxy, with extremely careful attention to edges not being able to wick. If I'd had time, i would have glassed in the apertures. 

[ianpowolny]

Memornix,

When Malcolm says a sharp chisel I’d advise using a sharpening service: www.sharpening-service.co.uk/onlineshop/prod_3949229-Chisels-over-1-25mm.html

If you’re buying new chisels they won’t be sufficiently sharp. It’s takes me about 3 hours to sharpen a new chisel by hand. With a properly sharpened chisel it be very easy to cut away the sealant. Keep some white spirt handy to clean the chisel as you go.

Ian