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Post by Trevor on Nov 28, 2008 0:53:46 GMT
Hello, We have a SO36i and when in port close the head holding tank sea-cock. The problem is the sea cock is so tight I have to really psych myself into changing the configuration. I have to use a wooden lever to get the thing to move at all and it is a really big deal to open or close it. Does anyone else have this problem or is my holding tank sea-cock unusually tight? Regards, Trevor
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Post by Don Reaves on Nov 28, 2008 1:51:23 GMT
At least you can move it. Before my boat was commissioned, the yard removed mine. Y valves are illegal on the Great Lakes.
But seriously, have you tried lubricating the valve, the way you (should) do with your other sea-cocks? I've found that it makes quite a difference.
Don
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Post by Trevor on Nov 28, 2008 8:53:29 GMT
Hi Don, At the risk of sounding terribly dopey, I didn't know you could lubricate them!! How do you do that?? Thanks, Trevor
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Post by Geoff on Nov 28, 2008 9:55:15 GMT
Trevor
I had the same problem.
Treat the seacock as a clock....Mine was at 4 and it was difficult to move. I moved it to 10 and that meant I could use my left hand to pull it down to open and then up to close. I also sprayed it with WD40.
Good luck.
Geoff.
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Post by Don Reaves on Nov 28, 2008 14:09:08 GMT
Trevor,
I'm glad Geoff came out of retirement to suggest the WD40. Since I don't have one, I don't know for sure how you might lubricate it. Worst case would be to remove one of the hoses and apply grease to the ball (I'm assuming it has a ball) as you would for a typical thru-hull. Doesn't sound like much fun.
Don
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Post by Trevor on Nov 28, 2008 22:26:52 GMT
Hi Geoff and Don, I have reversed the handle Geoff and that has helped a bit. I am think of making a removable extension that comes out into the shower recess to really get some purchase on it. And Don, your comments are quite insightful when you say it would not be much fun. The hose that attaches to that sea-cock has contents that are a best kept contained. Getting to the ball to lubricate could be a very messy business indeed. I figure you guys must have plenty of pump out stations on the Great Lakes. In enclosed waters where I live we are supposed to use pump out stations but very few are available for use. Many thanks for the replies. Trevor
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Post by sailingpages on Dec 5, 2008 13:20:41 GMT
Hi Trevor, We had a significant trouble with the holding tank sea-cock on our 36i to begin with too. We had reversed the handle which made a huge difference. Before that I just about gave myself an injury trying to turn it. It is harder to turn than other sea-cocks but something we do that helps is to work it a little each time we change it. Usually 4 or 5 turns back and forth frees it up quite a bit. Not sure why, might have something to do with the 'particulate matter'.
Cheers, Geoff
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Post by cm on Dec 18, 2008 0:39:49 GMT
I don't think WD40 or any petroleum type product is a good idea. On my 39i, I first flush the empty tank with a mains pressure hose from the top (cap on deck). You may need to soak the tank first if you haven't used it for a while. This gets the little bits of stuck on paper out that may be interfering with the valve. Then, with the seacock closed, put a cup of clean vegetable cooking oil in the empty flushed out tank. Do not put the oil in the pan. Wait 10 mins & then operate the lever open close, open close etc. This works for me and is good before laying up for the winter.
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Post by saildocmeister on Dec 31, 2008 6:20:58 GMT
Amen, brother - mine is tight also. Lubricate it with T-9, originally developed by Boeing and given to me by the maintenance guys at H&S yachts in Los Angeles. I have found it invaluable on my 39i.
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Post by MalcolmP on Jan 1, 2009 13:15:54 GMT
Amen, brother - mine is tight also. Lubricate it with T-9, originally developed by Boeing and given to me by the maintenance guys at H&S yachts in Los Angeles. I have found it invaluable on my 39i. Are you spraying simply the outside of the seacock or do you do this when the boat is out of the water and you are spraying up inside the valve itself? I have never understood if the T valve can be effectively lubricated Thx Malcolm
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Post by adrianpetts on Nov 25, 2009 11:58:54 GMT
I have just removed the seacock from the toilet outlet on my SO 40. After only 6 seasons use the ball inside the seacock, which turns to stop the flow, was very badly corroded. In places more than 1mm had corroded away. This had led to the seacock jamming.
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Post by boltnbrew on Nov 26, 2009 5:29:47 GMT
Five year old 43 DS- one ball valve corroded as well- the one on the forward head. Replaced it on the last haul-out and now it's a breeze. About $200 when doing the bottom. I had tried vegetable oil, but it was only a minor benefit.
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Post by davideso37 on Dec 3, 2009 10:03:35 GMT
Trevor,
I have the same problem with my 2006 SO37. I try to remember to work the valve back and forth every couple of months to keep it free. Glad you asked the question so we can all learn.
David
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Post by krawall on Dec 4, 2009 13:37:03 GMT
Same problem here.
I'm moving mine every few days in order to keep it from freezing.
Tom
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Post by rhen4994 on Dec 17, 2009 10:38:00 GMT
The original valves supplied in my view are suspect quality. On my 42DS they are also nearly impossible to access. I will be replacing all the valves with reasonable quality valves when next it is out of the water. Ross
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nac
Full Member
Posts: 38
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Post by nac on Apr 23, 2010 19:49:56 GMT
I am having the seacock replaced after only 3 seasons .it was jammed so tight that the handle was slipping and I was afraid that the handle would break what I call the spindle so Im getting it replaced. nac.
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leecondell
Junior Member
Posts: 15
Country: Australia
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Post by leecondell on May 12, 2010 6:28:56 GMT
Seizing outlet valves on the toilets are a Worldwide problem, especially in areas with warm sea-water. The combination of warm sea-water, the caustic contents of the tanks and the disimilar metals in the valve and skin fittings causes the valves to seize, particularly if used infrequently. Try white spirits in the toilet bowl (a cap full) regularly which is a charter yacht industry solution and/or pouring a little olive oil in the holding tank through the deck filler on occasion. Jeanneau have just starting using a plastic CE certified valve in the new 42DS, but it doesn't fit older models. Here in Australia we think we have just found a US made plastic valve that may be a solution. There is nothing wrong with the quality of the valve used by Jeanneau as we and Jeanneau have tried using other brands and stainless steel valves and the same thing happens. As a test Jeanneau sent me a replacement valve for a 42DS and the new valve seized within 3 months! The other solution we are trying is to connect a negative wire to these valves to find out if earthing them is a solution.
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