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Post by servdiv on Sept 17, 2019 15:09:00 GMT
I just bought a 2015 409 with a Delta Anchor with 100ft of chain and 150 feet of rode and the previous owner seemed to never use it but when I played with it this weekend the anchor was twisting and bumped the bow; not hard but it did. Also the chain is not aligned coming out of the windless and touched the gel coat when deployed. I was going to get a new bow roller with a high "V" angle to bring the chain and anchor more aligned in the center of the bow roller and put a swivel on the chain to the anchor to take the twist out?
Are there any other options and will wrk to solve my problem?
Thanks...Kevin
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Post by Zanshin on Sept 17, 2019 16:02:46 GMT
I have the similar problem with my anchor and ended up getting a stainless metal "crash plate" going from the waterline up. This serves a dual purpose of perhaps preventing damage should I hit a movable object in the water and also prevent the anchor tip from scratching the paint job.
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Post by Caxton on Sept 17, 2019 16:34:18 GMT
I have the same issue on my 39i. Have contemplated installing a crash plate. Zanshin can you provide a pic? Where did you have it made and how did you attach it?
Caxton
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Post by Tafika II on Sept 17, 2019 17:39:21 GMT
We used a SS 1/2" thick extension plate welded to the existing anchor plate using the existing holes in the deck. We added a SS bobstay for both the anchor and the gennaker when deployed
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Post by ohana on Sept 17, 2019 17:42:00 GMT
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Post by jdl01 on Sept 17, 2019 18:04:23 GMT
A permanent stainless steel scuff plate on the bow as recommended by Zanshin is the ultimate solution if you don't have trouble with the aesthetics. The 'place and remove' inflated Fenderflex bow shield looks good if storage and 'one more thing to fiddle with' are not issues on your boat. Other than these solutions, careful anchor handling is your best defense against dings in the gelcoat. 1. When dropping or retrieving the anchor do not stop the windlass when the anchor is in the air between the water surface and the anchor pulley. Stopping will cause the anchor to swing - usually inboard - 2. When raising the anchor, stop the windlass when the swivel breaks the surface. Wait until the anchor stops spinning before you raise it above the water surface. At this stage you can use a boat hook to turn the anchor to the right angle before hoisting it out of the water. 3. When the chain reaches the roller or the anchor breaks clear of the bottom, pause the windlass a couple of times during the hoist to given the chain a chance to unwind and let the windlass motor recover.
The wide, flat midsection on your roller is designed for the squared section of the Delta anchor shank so that the tip weight will cause it to tip right side up of its own accord. It is a nerve wracking experience, but it works most of the time - assuming a good swivel. This will not work with a deep V roller. Also, with the flat midsection roller, my experience has been that when the rope rode is under load and the bow shifts direction, the rode jumps across the roller with a load 'twang' - disconcerting when sleeping forward - and on one occasion jumped over the roller. In the end, I switched to a Vulcan spade anchor with the deep V roller and life has been good -no dings yet.
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Post by ohana on Sept 17, 2019 18:27:18 GMT
I did consider the stainless steel plate approach, but looking at other boats which have them, most had many dents where they had been hit by the anchor and looked really unsightly! The fenderflex is not a big imposition to deploy
agree in principle with the careful methods of raising and lowering, but these are fine in good conditions, but not in dark windy rainy conditions with a stressed crew. Guess how I know
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Post by servdiv on Sept 18, 2019 16:40:26 GMT
Thanks to all very much, I see more practice in my future along with running with your suggestions...Kevin
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Post by mikebz on Sept 19, 2019 8:57:30 GMT
Another approach, if you don't like the aesthetics of the permanent S/S bow protector and don't want the faff of deploying/recovering a bow fender every time you anchor, is to just accept that every few years you need to do a bit of gel coat touching up on the bow.
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Post by jdl01 on Sept 19, 2019 18:23:26 GMT
I did consider the stainless steel plate approach, but looking at other boats which have them, most had many dents where they had been hit by the anchor and looked really unsightly! The fenderflex is not a big imposition to deploy agree in principle with the careful methods of raising and lowering, but these are fine in good conditions, but not in dark windy rainy conditions with a stressed crew. Guess how I know
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Post by jdl01 on Sept 19, 2019 18:28:19 GMT
Retrieving an anchor in a crowded anchorage or close to a lee shore can remove most choices for hoisting, but, if you can get a bit of sea room, I have found that reversing into the wind and waves during the final stages of retrieval can reduce unwanted anchor swinging and dinging.
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Post by zaphod on Sept 21, 2019 18:14:27 GMT
Retrieving an anchor in a crowded anchorage or close to a lee shore can remove most choices for hoisting, but, if you can get a bit of sea room, I have found that reversing into the wind and waves during the final stages of retrieval can reduce unwanted anchor swinging and dinging. I have very little anchoring experience, and none on our current boat. I am worried about dinging the bow too. The technique you describe seems counterintuitive to me. If you are moving backward as you hoist the anchor, isn't it more likely to swing in and hit the bow once it breaks free of the water? I would have thought you would want the anchor to come straight up. Am I missing something?
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Post by jdl01 on Sept 22, 2019 16:42:33 GMT
We are talking about windy, wavy conditions. Th boat will be on the move without motor or sail. With your stern into the wind and reversing SLOWLY you can keep control of your boat with relatively little movement through the water.
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Post by MalcolmP on Sept 22, 2019 18:58:58 GMT
Many thanks for the positive comments on FenderFlex www.fenderflex.com I designed this specially for this issue and they continue to sell well and in my biased view look much better than resorting to stainless bash plates which inevitably get dents and bashes... The FenderFlex works best if you preadjust the length of the lines, I use plastic hooks that loop around the pulpit base. Then takes just a few seconds to deploy and stores easily in the anchor locker when not in use.
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Post by Caxton on Sept 27, 2019 18:55:00 GMT
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Post by Caxton on Sept 27, 2019 19:09:36 GMT
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Post by MalcolmP on Sept 27, 2019 21:13:00 GMT
Hi Caxton
Yes indeed, not sure why the photos are sideways, will take a look when back home, currently enjoying the end of this summer in the Mediterranean ๐
Glad you like the FenderFlex, simple ideal and now very well made in Denmark by DAN-FENDER
Thanks Malcolm
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Post by zaphod on Sept 28, 2019 16:27:26 GMT
We are talking about windy, wavy conditions. Th boat will be on the move without motor or sail. With your stern into the wind and reversing SLOWLY you can keep control of your boat with relatively little movement through the water. Oh I see, you are talking about holding station rather than actually moving through the water. Got it!
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Post by sailbleu on Sept 29, 2019 6:16:46 GMT
Hi Caxton Yes indeed, not sure why the photos are sideways, will take a look when back home, currently enjoying the end of this summer in the Mediterranean ๐ Glad you like the FenderFlex, simple ideal and now very well made in Denmark by DAN-FENDER Thanks Malcolm Every time I posted pics taken with my ipad the pics were upside down . Until , I believe it was Don Reaves , told me to keep the homebutton on the righthand side at all times . Guess what . Maybe you need to experiment with your camera devices , be it tablet or smartphone . Regards
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Post by andreshs1 on Oct 2, 2019 11:55:38 GMT
I have the similar problem with my anchor and ended up getting a stainless metal "crash plate" going from the waterline up. This serves a dual purpose of perhaps preventing damage should I hit a movable object in the water and also prevent the anchor tip from scratching the paint job. I did the same and extremely happy with it Cheers
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omoo
Full Member
Posts: 33
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Post by omoo on Oct 2, 2019 20:37:55 GMT
I had a larger bow roller made up when the old one wore out. I have a 43DS 2001 and doing this greatly reduced the tendency of the anchor to hit the bow.
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Post by ohana on Oct 3, 2019 9:15:26 GMT
I had a larger bow roller made up when the old one wore out. I have a 43DS 2001 and doing this greatly reduced the tendency of the anchor to hit the bow. Thatโs a good point. I had a stainless articulating double roller fabrication made which fits inside the original jeanneau fabrication, pivoting on the bolt which originally was used for the single roller. The outer roller of this new articulating arrangement is much bigger than the old one, and the rocna is snugly held in this. The overall effect is to move the chain drop location further away from the bow. The articulating arrangement makes lowering and retrieving the anchor a much smoother operation.
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Post by saltymetals on Dec 2, 2019 11:32:20 GMT
With the facility of being able to drop and retrieve the anchor from the cockpit i do not wish to have the extra need to rush forward and place a fender protection so i went for a crash plate. In fact when i had it made i was using a 20 kg Bruce copy (original fitment by Jeanneau but why a copy?) and now changed to a 20 Kg Spade. Problem is that the Spade has a longer point to it so i now have to fit a larger crashplate. I sized the first crash plate according to where the Bruce had made the dings so now i have fresh dings further down from the Spade to be able to size my new crashplate.
Kevin, if you are fitting a swivel make sure you fit it so that you have 3-4 links between the swivel and the shank of the anchor. This will avoid side forces on the swivel which might break it. (See Calder or Vyv Cox Engineering)
Andrew
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Post by servdiv on Sept 2, 2020 18:44:34 GMT
Wow, interesting, never thought of that, thank you, will do some research on that point...Kevin
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