Spinnaker halyard routing SO44i

[pipemma]

Last season we found it near impossible to do an inside gybe with our new cruising chute; it looked like the spinnaker halyard and genoa halyard were fouling. Having just got back to the boat this afternoon after the winter, we've now notice the spinnaker halyard is run through an eye on the mast just fractionally above the genoa furling gear - which would explain a lot. Can anyone see any reason why this has been done - or more practically, any reason why we can't run the spinnaker halyard straight out of the block at the top of the mast and ignore the eye? If you squint, you can sort of see what I mean in the two pics linked below

www.flickr.com/photos/145360508@N03/27890120038/in/album-72157689684953331/


www.flickr.com/photos/145360508@N03/41041460424/in/album-72157689684953331/

(Sorry they're grainy, iPhone on max zoom from the ground as it's not visible from the deck)

Thanks in advance

[super g]

I’m interested in this thread as I’m making a top down furler and will need a bigger gap from the forestay. I wouldn’t fly it from the top sheave as it will chaffe on the mast exit. It will also put unsupported sideways pressure on the mast to my mind it’s only half a metre or less and as long as it wasn’t flown in a gale I wouldn’t imagine it would cause an issue.

As a first step I’m going to try fitting a block to the existing pad eye and that should give an extra 10cm.

[pipemma]

Apr 29, 2018 7:49:32 GMT super g said:

I’m interested in this thread as I’m making a top down furler and will need a bigger gap from the forestay. I wouldn’t fly it from the top sheave as it will chaffe on the mast exit. It will also put unsupported sideways pressure on the mast to my mind it’s only half a metre or less and as long as it wasn’t flown in a gale I wouldn’t imagine it would cause an issue.

As a first step I’m going to try fitting a block to the existing pad eye and that should give an extra 10cm.

We’re going up the mast tomorrow so we’ll take more pictures. Adding a block is an idea but I’m still concerned about the height of that eye

[rene460]

Hi Pipemma, I have been following this since you first posted it, but I am sure I could not see the photos. Today I had another look and they are there. My apologies if they have been there all along.

The masthead sheave is not intended for side loading and will cause undue wear on the spinnaker halliard if it is being pulled to the side by a spinnaker trimmed shy. Even a normal exit sheave has sides which are rounded enough to help a little, but that masthead unit looks like plain flat plates which is pretty normal. The idea of the ring, which I believe should have a block for the halliard, is that the halliard is guided straight down to clear the masthead sheave cleanly. The block on the ring must be able to swing to align with the halliard both from the masthead and to the spinnaker, without binding.

The block is usually fitted to the bail before attaching to the mast so there are minimal connections to "lock up" or bind. Adding it now will probably involve a shackle type connection which should have the pin wired or perhaps locked with Locktite or epoxy glue as it will be a pain to refit if the pin ever comes loose. Most fitting manufacturers produce a "swivel head" block that only involves one pin to fit, use your preferred supplier. If necessary, drill the pin for a thin stainless steel wire, or buy a spare drilled pin as a replacement.

I assume you will use a reasonably large block on your size boat, and that should get the spinnaker halliard clear of the forestay swivel clearance disk for gybing, whether you choose inside or outside, providing you have plenty of room at the tack. There does not look like much room between the masthead block and the forestay for a new bail a bit higher.

I hope that helps,

Rene460

[MalcolmP]

Apr 30, 2018 10:51:03 GMT rene460 said:

Hi Pipemma, I have been following this since you first posted it, but I am sure I could not see the photos. Today I had another look and they are there. My apologies if they have been there all along.

Hi rene460 I made the photo links active     Malcolm Admin

[rene460]

Thanks Malcolm, so I am not mad after all, or at least not based on that evidence.

Your effort has made the thread, and I believe some others, so much more readable.  

Thanks again,

rene460

[pipemma]

Hi René, we went up the mast today and have fitted a block on the bail. Looks much better already, proof of the pudding will be when we get on the water, of course.

Malcolm, thanks for sorting the pics

[rene460]

Hi Pipemma, I will be keeping my fingers crossed for your successful gybing.  Do you have some sort of bowsprit?  Or is your tack line just attached to the bow roller?  Either way, it should be a big improvement.

rene460

[pipemma]

No bowsprit but our bow roller extends quite a way. I have a turning block attached to the hole in the bow roller with a shackle and run a reasonably long tack line - that end has worked really well. The tack line and its turning block will then double as the pole down when I get my whisker pole. Unfortunately I don't have a padeye in my foredeck and no realistic way of fitting one, but I'm planning to McGyver a double loop of dyneema through the forward cleats to meet in the middle

[pipemma]

May 2, 2018 10:56:22 GMT rene460 said:

Hi Pipemma, I will be keeping my fingers crossed for your successful gybing.  Do you have some sort of bowsprit?  Or is your tack line just attached to the bow roller?  Either way, it should be a big improvement.

rene460

The block at the top seems to have solved the problem - inside gybing worked fine today

[rene460]

Hi Pipemma,

Glad to hear that it worked ok.  Must have just needed that critical few inches for the head reinforcing to pull through.  I think the block must have gone missing some time, as it is necessary to both reduce friction at the bail, and it has to swing to make a fair line to the spinnaker.  I have never seen a rigging suggestion without the block.  Good to have it fixed, saves wear and tear on the halliard.

rene460