It is actually very easy to run the hose from the nav desk passed the shower. You either run it along the stringer or, what I do is I have an old piece of plastic covered railing wire of like 4 metres, with the rounded end fitting still on it, which I push through. Makes life very easy that way. It would be good if someone could help you with this. One to push the hose, the other to pull whatever you use to pull.
There is one hole I've been using for cables but that won't work for the hose now. I have not been able to see the access at the stringer level, but I have not tried too hard. Will have a better look again soon
One small comment. The Rule 2000 also requires a 28mm fitting. All these pumps of that sort of volume need 28 to 30mm inner diameter. The problem is that if you use a 25mm hose, you will lose capacity.
I measured it and got 24mm I think, but I did not measure the hose barb. I guess that's where I stuffed up.
It´s not a problem. You will just sink quicker, that´s all.
Bump for a good thread. I am looking to setup a secondary bilge pump and high water alarm in my 2003 43DS Talk me out of teeing the pump discharge into the black water tank vent in the shower panel. ??
I haven't looked at that vent line, but you will certainly end up filling up the holding tank before you get full flow overboard. The tank is not that large, but you do want to get the water outside the boat, not just shift it around inside. And filling that tank will make the boat sit even lower in the water than you want it to be. Your boat is in the Great Lakes, so you have no way (supposedly) to empty it while you are on the lakes.
And the question of pumping to the side of the boat is interesting. If the boat is listing, the highest back pressure will appear when the discharge is on the high side of the list, because that is the highest column of water that the pump will be seeing. It could be higher than when the boat is level. But you never know which direction the boat will list towards.
I installed my discharge fitting at the stern, where the stern light is (normally) mounted. The theory was that this will stay dry if the rail goes under, which could happen for quite a while if you are hard on the wind for a while. If you discharge thru the side of the boat, you might want to install some sort of valve in this line to keep the water out, but would have to open that valve (or deal with a check valve) when you need it. With the discharge in the stern, it might get wet if a following sea washes over the stern, but that won't last very long, so not much water can get into the boat. So no need to install any check valve or isolation valve.
Also, running a hose to the side of the boat may not give you a very straight run. Every time you change direction, you lose some flow. My run to the stern is almost direct, with very gentle change of direction, until it reaches the stern, where it turns up then out thru a nice bronze fitting picked up in a flea market.
The hose run to the stern will be longer than a run to the side of the boat, which means lower pressure losses and higher flow. From my pump to the stern is about 25 ft. From the same pump to a high point on the side of the boat would be about 10 ft. The hose is pretty smooth, and it is normally empty. If someone has a copy of the Crane fluid manual, you could calculate the head losses to see how badly an additional 15 ft of hose would reduce the flow rate. You would also need a pump curve, which I have never seen for a bilge pump on a small boat.
Now, someone else says that these boats tend to sink bow first, which means that you might want to discharge toward the bow. This is something to think about, but also consider that if you discharge forward, you MUST install some sort of valve to keep the water out during normal operation, which means dealing with a manual valve or a check valve, for an emergency situation where you don't know who is going to open the manual valve, or whether the check valve will open.
I hate to think about depending on someone opening a manual valve in a sinking boat, which might be under water when you need to open it, and my engineering experience with check valves tells me that I don't want to expect it to work, in an environment where there are all sorts of biologicals in the fluid stream, depositing god-know-what inside the check valve.
So, this is why my emergency pump discharges thru the stern of the boat.
One last thought. There is no reasonable way to test any of these emergency pumps. They normally sit above the water level of the normal bilge pump, and no one in their right mind is going to fill up their bilge to test the emergency pumps. So these pumps go into the same class as your life raft, your inflatable lift jacket, and your EPIRB (whick is supposed to be tested every 5(?) years to see if it will transmit properly. You just hope that these things will work when you need them. Which is why, if my boat starts to sink, the first thing I will do is make sure that my RIB dinghy will be in the water, ready to be cast off and used. It has not been deflated for 20 years, and I KNOW that it works. Then I turn to the EPIRB, the life jackets, and the life raft, which sits in a protected locker.
Post by Charlie-Bravo on Dec 22, 2020 12:55:12 GMT
Well, having had the experience of losing a yacht from sinking I read with interest the thoughts of others on pumps the standard issue pumping arrangements in yachts are there for failed shaft seals, and the occasional dodgy through hull, and most can just about cope, with the exception of possibly a two inch heads outlet fail, not a big rock through the hull or a ripped off keel or hitting a floating container, but the heads outlet can be plugged or at least slowed down with a foot or bung. Unless you have your bilge pump tuned on or rewired to be on standby all the time as mine wasn't ! or a bilge alarm , the first hint that you are sinking is either wet feet or noticing a slight flotation movement of the welcome aboard mat at the foot of the companion way ( I had the wet foot experience ), by this time a considerable amount of water has been taken on, and it's all hands to the pumps. Once you realise that even adding the washing up bowl to the bailing effort that you are fighting a losing battle , the next action is to reduce risk to self and others, calling for help , and deciding if to stay with the sinking boat or leave ..... a choice depending on the exact situation, but will be made quite quickly, having essentials in a convenient grab bag is a real help. I had 2 pumps, but 3 wouldn't have made much difference, and adding the johnsons engine pump would have gained little .... but might have helped a bit I suppose.
I like the idea of being able to pump vast quantities of water out of the boat, yes it might give you a little more time , but if the hole below is large ....... well that's why good insurance is a must have. If going on an extended voyage the money may be better spent on renewing any old through hulls, valves and fittings, stern gland and inspection of hull condition and perhaps a spare liferaft ........ in case the first fails, (I used the dinghy as it was parked on the stern) .
Hope nobody else gets that sinking feeling, it's not good. CB
I bought a Jabsco 330GPH in 2018 and a couple of months ago I moved it to the boat.....I have now installed a dedicated automatic/manual switch with sound alarm and a 2nd float switch in the bilge, just above of the bilge sump, hence, if I was to have over 2 inches of water on the bilge, this pump will kick-in and I will also hear the alarm.
I am also 'thinking' on hooking this pump to the existing bilge pump hose with a couple of non-return valves and some sort of Y connector. Any thoughts on this?
Post by sailingabe41ds on Jan 1, 2021 18:13:04 GMT
I bought a Rule 3700 with a switch and ran a hose to the starboard side at least 18 inches above the water line. I tried tapping into the sink thru hull....well the sink filled up with water. I keep it separate and independent ...its own electrical line and its own hose with thru hull without T, without one way valve,...and above the waterline. Yes, you can test it. Just get a water hose and start filling up the bilge with water. I tapped the electrical to one of the hot wires that fed one of the electrical panels. There is a fuse both at the Rule on and off switch and on one of the wires that feeds the pump. Originally I had it wired to the panel that control the lights...bilge only on when inside light switch was on....my mistake and that is what is shown in the pic.
Post by sailingabe41ds on Jan 1, 2021 18:16:11 GMT
...more pics. I keep the hose as short as possible and I would not T to anything and avoid going below the water line. Keep it simple. Keep in mind these pumps are not all that strong....avoid long lines and avoid having it pushing water out of the way (like attaching to a thru hull below the water line). The pump sits on a plastic type 1/2 inch thick board that I attached to the hull using 3M 4200. There is no way anyone should feel safe with one little pump and tiny hose that runs from the bilge to the stern. Hope this is helpful... good luck.