Eberspacher heater

[johnwilliams]

Hi, thinking about bringing my SO36 back to UK from the Algarve and are probably going to fit an Eberspacher heater, for obvious reasons. I would like some advice about the layout, siting the heater, number of outlets, output etc. Any one fitted one who could give me a little advice would be most appreciated.

[rhb]

When we were about to install our heater (on a 42I) , we were able to get from the factory a diagram that showed all of the installation details including siting of outlets, hose fittings used, power connections etc.

Our dealer obtained this for us - yours might be able to get the same for your boat.

[sailbleu]

I have fitted my own Eberspacher in my 40Ds , so advice about the siting will be useless in this case I suppose.
However , I would like to bring your attention to the heating of the boilerwater.
Let me explain:
Some years ago I bought a hot air Eberspacher but kind of regret that decision.
I have much need for hot shower water ( kids needing their daily bath/shower, dishes for 6 persons and so on), combine that with alot of anchoring and you get a problem with the warm water supply.
On anchor the engine cools down , needing to warm up first before delivering heat to the boiler.
I hate to put mileage on the engine just for domestic use , but sometimes I have to , always giving me mixed feelings.
My generator (220 volts to the electrical element) needs to run for an hour to get the water to 65°C , that has to be done several times a day.
That made me think about an extra Eberspacher or Webasto just to heat the water.
That means installing an extra unit , lots of work in other words.
So I decided to addapt and expand my hot air unit and install a heat exchanger so the water will be heated up by hot air that will be evacuated to open air.
This project is in its final stage allready , I just waiting for the waterhoses and some solenoid valves to finish up.
I previously have set up an experiment and the results where promissing , I estimate to be able to heat the boiler in less than an hour by just running my hotair Eberspacher .
We stay for about 4 months a year around the mediterranean (that will be permanently starting from 2014) , I intend to also create the possibility of using a solar panel(heater) to silently heat up the boiler water using the same circuit and pump.

So , to make a long story short , I wish I had installed an Eberspacher (or webasto for that matter) waterheater instead of an hotair one.
That way a heatexchanger could supply warm air to the cabine and also heat the boiler (and engine if you wish) much quicker.

My advice is - depending of your needs of course - go for a waterunit connect it to the engine heating system and install some valves so you can bypass the engine while heating the boiler or the cabine.
Good luck

regards

Ps:
Malcolm , you feel it comming right , more H&T stuff later on :-)

[tedp]

I had an Eberspächer installed in my SO32. Probably quite a different boat, but the principles may be similar. First, install one with more than adequate capacity. If the manual says a certain model will be OK for the volume of air to be heated, take the next model up. This ensures you always have enough heating capacity.

Second, in the SO32 there is a vacant space in the stern that can be used to site the unit. This means having a short exhaust line, and the air inlet can be made in the stern cabin. Third, the main hot air duct should go to the heads/shower compartment first as this will be used to dry any wet clothing. In the SO32 this means fitting the duct behind the headboard of the double berth in the stern cabin. This proved to get quite hot during the first year we had it installed, so I fitted insulation sleeves to the first few yards of the duct. This also improves heat retention in the air that ends up being blown into the cabin.

The number of outlets depends on the layout of the cabin and on space behind bunks, bulkhead construction etc. In my case the hot air duct was led behind the portside settee into the fore cabin with one outlet, then the final outlet into the main cabin was made under the table. This ensures you always have warm feet when you come out of the cold and wet. On no account make an outlet straight under the companionway as the hot air will simply disappear through the hatch if it is cracked open just a bit.

I find that I seldom use the outlet port in the fore cabin, and the heads compartment needs the port only slightly open to heat up nicely. The boat gets comfortably warm within about 15 minutes even if the sea temperature is down to 10 degrees. If you need more heat quickly, just open de heads door for a minute.

One thing to watch is the attachment of the hot air line to the heater unit. This is an inadequate plastic ring that clips on to the heater. In my case it fell off at some moment, causing the stern compartment to heat up but the boat to remain cold. I found out when installing the insulation sleeves and put two stainless steel self-tapping screws through the attachment.

Hope that helps you decide.

[MalcolmP]

Again not a SO36 but there may be some useful info on

www.jeanneau-owners.com/hintsandtips/342heater.html

from a few years ago when I fitted one on my previous 34.2

Agree about getting next size up and ensuring that the heads is near the start of the run - with hindsight it would have been better

We have the factory fit webasto in the 39i and touch wood it has been great. Not sure if there is much to choose from re: Mikuni, Webasto, Eberspacher

Agree with Sailbleu that a hot water option needs to be considered - it also means you do not have to drill massive holes to take the elephants trunking which takes storage space, is prone to damage and as TEDP notes can leak quite abit of heat

If possible please take photos when you do the install, then it can be put on Hints and Tips for future reference

[Deleted]

On our SO36i we have a Webasto Air Top Evo 3900 (12V, 3.9KW) diesel heater.

The unit is mounted on a stringer in the space aft of the starboard cabin (God knows how the fitter got in there!). There are three outlets - aft cabin, saloon (below port bench) and in forward cabin. The thermostat and control head are fitted to right of the electrical panel.

There are three settings; the high is a bit noisy, but you need that setting for only 10-15min, after which the low (quiet) setting will keep the boat cosy.
We keep SUNSET in commission during the winter; the performance of the heater over the past two winters has been excellent.

The installation was done by Osmotech << www.osmotech.co.uk/ >>. Two of their young fitters completed the installation in one day - very neat job - we highly recommended this firm. There is a useful link to Webasto on their website.

Warm Cruising!

[rodgerg]

My SO32 has the heater mounted as described previously, complete with main hose slipping off! however they routed in up starboard side missing an opportunity to heat the heads. Very efficient bit of kit but not a lot of hot air reaches forward cabin

[sailbleu]

My forward cabin is not being heated at all. It's too far to get hot air over there , here's where you need an inline blower with extra power consumption.I didn't think that was a good idea.
But up to now I do not regret not installing some ducs to the forward cabin and head , I just close that door.
The main head is heated however, very important .

Regards

[tedp]

The funny thing is I get a lot of hot air in the main cabin even using the roundabout route which actually goes through the fore cabin. I think the insulation sleeve on the first three yards helps a lot. Insulating most of the hot air line (at least the parts you can get to) will help you conserve heat in the duct.

I normally have the fore cabin door closed as well, and the heater outlet shut in there. This only leaves the end outlet in the main cabin open. But sometimes on cold and damp mornings, when there is a lot of condensation in the boat, it helps to be able to heat the fore cabin.

[j]

In the 36i & 39i the factory pre-installed 80mm (I think that's the size) ducting behind the galley. - about 2 metres worth.

To connect ducting to this you can access it from where the fresh water pump is (forward of the galley) and behind the cupboard on the starboard side of the aft cabin (remove plywood lining at back of cupboard)

The factory has also precut the hole in the diesel tank to install the heater fuel pickup (standpipe) - there is a blank stainless steel plate covering it (on the 36i at least)

Nov 17, 2012 12:36:25 GMT @sunset said:

The unit is mounted on a stringer in the space aft of the starboard cabin (God knows how the fitter got in there!)

I installed it just below the stringer on a wooden bracket that I fibre glassed to the hull - to install it on the stringer I would've had to move the cooking gas pipe and bend it.

[rodgerg]

Having read that others have their heating ducts going through the heads on the port side, I am giving consideration to trying to route the narrowest avaiale piping to the heads. I will remove the headboard in the rear cabin and check out a route. My concern will be the effect of adding a joining coupling to the existing outlet hose. Could I end all all the heat going down the smaller ducting? Of course I still have to work out how to get at the heater assembly in the first case. There is a removable panel and another small opening close to the bedroom outlet. I think I need to train my two year old grandson. Anyone any thoughts or potential problems.
A wee project for February maybe!

[johnwilliams]

Thanks all for the interesting comments, I will certainly be taking in some of the advice during the installation, lots of time to get the work done, marina contract in Albufiera doesn't run out until August next year, then I start the journey back to colder climes. Thanks again for the comments.

[pbunning]

It is worth having an outlet in the heads AND use insulated ducting.

[rodgerg]

I have done both on Saturday. Insulated all my tubing with heatproof tape from homebase. used 50mm ducting sourced from the net. One 50mm outlet installed under the sink door and a 75x75x50 splitter bought from a local Eperspacher company as I could not find anywhere else. All neatly hidden behind headboard and have advantage now of pipe passing through hanging clothes lockers to keep things toastie. Works really well with no difference to pressure going into main cabin as the additional take off is from the tube going to the bedroom. Insulation done on all the other tubing as well apart from behind the cooker and other inaccessible bits. Total cost approx £160. the three way coupling was £45 alone and the insulation £25.
Well worth all the acrobatics trying to make the connections.