|
|
Post by bsafreed on Jun 27, 2012 1:20:50 GMT
All, I want to upgrade the bilge pumps and have a few questions that I'm hoping to find solutions. 1st question. Why only a 3GPM FlowJet sump pump as the main bilge pump? It's good for removing the few pints of water that accumulates during normal use. But for an emergency? Yikes...I don't want to think about it. Any suggestions on a retrofit would be welcomed as I'd like to know what others may have choose to do in respect to using the existing piping. I'd also like to replace the manual bilge pump located in the cockpit (attached image). It does not function and given its intent I'd prefer to have one working than not. On the SO 42.1 the main sump is at least 15' away from the manual pump (I've not taken a measure to be exact but I'd say I'm close and not considering the piping turns.) That's a long distance to prime and the sump to pump head elevation is at least 4'. There are several pumps on the market such as the Whale Gusher Titan Bilge Pump which has a maximum head of 4m (13.5'). I'd prefer to have a recommendation before I purchase it only to find out it won't prime. Again, I'm looking for suggestions so I can get both systems working with the comfort that I'll not need to use them in an emergency but if required they will function. Thank you in advance, Brian  |
|
|
|
Post by cpetku on Jun 27, 2012 2:44:19 GMT
Not sure how good of a suggestion this is but since you seem concerned about emergencies...
On my SO40DS the dealer installed a Y valve on both shower sumps at the request of the previous owwner. The second line goes into the bilge. If there's a problem it's merely a matter of turning on the shower pumps and flipping a couple of ball valves to get extra drainage...
Craig
|
|
|
|
Post by bsafreed on Jun 27, 2012 11:25:29 GMT
Craig, thank you. My awareness comes from 6yrs in the Navy as a damage control officer on a warship.
It's not until you need an emergency pump that you realize how vital it is to have one. As you suggest, it's possible to redesign and add Y-valves to the sumps with extra suction lines. This assumes you have electrical power and the ability to run it manually. I don't foresee any pending disaster but who does. I'm also curious to know about Jeanneau's reasoning behind their manual pump location and to ID an equivalent replacement. On your 40DS, have you tested the manual pump? Assume it's also located in the cockpit. Best regards, Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by MalcolmP on Jun 27, 2012 14:20:48 GMT
I don't have any actual experience of this, but I remember claims by others about the benefits to put a Y valve on the raw water intake to the engine then connecting to a well protected strainer/filter in the bilge
I suppose the logic is if you are about to sink even if this creates possible problems for the engine it may hold the water level down enough whilst you make a fix
The manual pump is an CE certification requirement
|
|
|
|
Post by bsafreed on Jun 28, 2012 2:33:08 GMT
Thanks Webcrew for your reply. Interesting concept though. I don't want to imagine having no engine or electrical during an emergency. Happy sailing in the UK. Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by tedp on Jun 28, 2012 8:43:04 GMT
I remember reading somewhere that the most effective bilge pump is a scared yachtsman with a bucket.
I confess I never tried the manual pump on my boat. Perhaps I will have to flood the sump it draws from to see what happens. The manual and electric bilge pumps fitted to most yachts are mere playthings in a real emergency. You need something able to cope with bigger volumes of water. There is the chance of your batteries being under water as well. The engine intake idea appeals to me, provided you can get it started.
|
|
|
|
Post by bsafreed on Jul 1, 2012 15:24:34 GMT
tedp, I would concur with your assessment. If there is a major amount of water coming in I doubt the current designs are capable of managing the outflow. As I need to replace my manual bilge pump I'll opt for the best performing one.
I'd recommend testing yours just to see if it actuall works. The alternative is to have an electric 1000 gph pump with an 8ft hose, with a long electrical cable, and battery clips. A $100 investment that I hope never to need to use.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by tedp on Jul 1, 2012 17:01:01 GMT
Following your post I looked for 12V dipper pumps on the Web. I found one for about 70 euros with an output of 3000 litres per hour and an output lifting capacity of 2 metres (slightly under 7ft). Must be about similar to the one you're talking about.
Haven't yet tested my manual pump but since I am on board right now I can do so tonight. I know it blows air, but I wonder about its self-priming properties.
EDIT - just tested my manual pump and it works all right, producing great gushes of water. I cleared about 5 litres of water which I had put into the sump with a few strokes. The suction is a flexible hose that can be inserted into the sump or any other compartment within about 5ft. It is coiled under the floor right below the entrance hatchway. The pump is located in the stern, below the starboard cockpit seat.
|
|
|
|
Post by bsafreed on Jul 4, 2012 0:47:59 GMT
Tedp,
Great that the manual pump works. Do you have any idea of the make? How far is it from the cockpit to the sump? I'm estimating on my SO42.1 its well over 10'.
Thanks, Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by tedp on Jul 4, 2012 1:06:05 GMT
I'm not sure about the make of the manual pump. In the Jeanneauparts website listing it is only given as 'MANUAL BILGE PUMP 1ACTION 0.7L/C' but I think that refers to the capacity of 0.7 litres per stroke. In my boat it is about 10 ft from the sump to the pump also if you add the length of the flexible suction hose. I cannot say more about the pump right now as I won't be back on the boat for several weeks.
|
|
