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Post by nornaj on Apr 10, 2012 11:44:22 GMT
The existing set up is a sheaved fairlead on the aft pulpit stanchion, a bullseye at the break of the coachroof, through the deck organiser and then the cockpit clutch. Lots of friction, especially over the coach roof, also too easy to roll under foot and in the way of carrying kayaks.
Planning to move the furling line to the stanchions (inboard side) using a combination of Spinlock leads WL1 (bullseye)and WL2 (sheeved).
The best lead into the cockpit appears to be from the first stanchion in the pushpit. But that may foul the jib sheets.
Any ideas on the best setup and equipment would be appreciated. Articulated ratchet block + cleat? Rope clutch?
NornaJ
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Post by MalcolmP on Apr 10, 2012 17:33:37 GMT
I like the idea of reducing friction and the trip hazard, but I wonder how you will get on when furling the sail back in? I find that to keep a neat roll up of the sail I need to keep slight tension on both sheets, but perhaps your new system may avoid the need to use a winch at all?. Now I think about it I only use the cabin top winch effectively as a snubbing winch for the jib pennant and never need to use a winch handle so it might be OK
In terms of a stopper, whilst not everyone likes them I used spinlock PXR stoppers on my previous boat and with a 8mm line or so like on the furler they worked well for me as you can snap them up and down with the line
Do take photos of your modifications so we can add to the Hints and Tips section
cheers
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Post by hoppy on Apr 10, 2012 19:39:13 GMT
I moved my roller line to the stanchions and then lead it back to a block with a cam cleat on the pushpit.
The good thing with this set-up is that you can lead the line to the cabin top winch (if the jib is busy) and it runs nicely through the clam cleat to the block.
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Post by hoppy on Apr 10, 2012 19:40:28 GMT
the attachment i meant to include (i hope)  |
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debenboy
Full Member
Posts: 46
Country: UK
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Post by debenboy on Apr 11, 2012 10:00:15 GMT
On my 36i I moved the furling line to the starboard side using the proprietary Harken kit, including their roller bearing stanchion leads with one Spionlock bullseye where the lead was straight and I just wanted to keep the lead tidy. At the aft end it turns through a Spinlock "floating" block with locking cam attached to the pushpit leg.
That brings everything neatly to hand by the wheel with the option of leading the line to my (upgraded Harken Radial 46ST ) primary winch if needed.
Normally I can furl without needing the winch and there is very little friction.
It also avoids the elephant trap/trip hazard of the furling line running across the foredeck at ankle height!
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Post by nornaj on Apr 15, 2012 21:48:35 GMT
Many thanks for all the input. The Harken lead block kit (7404) includes a block for the pulpit (7401), a ratchet block for the pushpit (7402), 3 outboard lead blocks (7403), plus a cleat. Good stuff, especially the ratchet block, but I couldn't see how the outboard lead blocks would work well on the 39i due to the curvature of the hull. Decided to combine Harken's 7401 and 7402 blocks with 3 Spinlock inboard lead blocks and 1 Spinlock bullseye. Plus an inexpensive nylon cleat. Total cost about $150. The lead from the ratchet block clears the port jib sheet so long as the upper lead is used on the cheek block. It is also possible to run the furling line to the halyard winch (yeh, I know, never use a winch on the furling line). We'll find out if it all works as planned the next time we get 20k of wind. NornaJ  |
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Post by nornaj on Apr 15, 2012 21:53:42 GMT
Sorry, wrong picture!  |
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Post by nornaj on Jul 6, 2012 23:32:21 GMT
To complete the thread - yep, the system works well in all conditions.
NornaJ
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