|
|
Post by johnwilliams on Feb 21, 2012 21:30:43 GMT
Any knowledge on the following would be gratefully recieved. The gate valve on the toilet outlet on my 2009 So36i has eventually seized in the open position. It has been a problem from day one, being stiff and difficult to operate. I now accept that I have to replace the unit, which has stamped on it, 80s ACS, 2" and has a red plastic handle. I would like to know if anyone has had the same problem and what has it been replaced with and where can I obtain one. If I have to replace with an original one then it looks like I will have to try Jeanneau direct, because I cannot find anything like it on Google. I would like to improve the quality of the valve if possible.
|
|
|
|
Post by j on Feb 21, 2012 23:03:17 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Tafika II on Feb 22, 2012 0:35:09 GMT
I have a SO42DS & have replaced both head thru-hulls and also the engine intake valve. The values Jeanneau installs are junk. The gall open or shut and they snap off. Please do this sooner than later.
|
|
|
|
Post by Peter123 on Mar 12, 2012 18:41:40 GMT
Had similar problem on my 36i from the start. Very stiff but not quite seized. I sorted it by blocking skin fitting with a wooden bung then pouring some phosphoric acid into the holding tank thru the deck pump out hole. Waited about a week, waggling the valve handle every day or two. Eventually it loosened up nicely. Pulled out bung .. all good now. It also descaled the holding tank. You can get concentrated Phosphoric acid on ebay cheaper than chandlery holding tank de-scaler.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mistroma on Mar 30, 2012 22:43:02 GMT
My 42DS has now had around 18 months afloat and 18 months ashore.
Forward heads outlet was always quite stiff so removed it to find some (not too much) corrosion on the ball. Inlet valve seems fine.
I'm replacing both with DZR fittings (MackEngineering have them cheaper than ASAPSupplies).
Engine cooling skin fitting & valve etc. removed. All perfect and looking like new. Re-fitted and will monitor valve & tail annually (it is the only one that's easy to remove).
Findings so far:
1) Skin fittings look like decent quality (might even be gunmetal)
2) Elbows look more like bronze than brass. Certainly better quality than ordinary brass
3) Ball valves are all cheap brass bodies with lightly chromed brass balls
4) Hose tails are also just brass
N.B. If buying a 2" BSP (Not BST) F/F ball valve you may well need a reducer. Hose on my boat is 38mm so 1.5" x 38mm tail goes into a reducer on the 2" valve.
|
|
|
|
Post by spiderbill on May 22, 2012 15:53:08 GMT
Mistroma, I also have a 42DS and would like to know if you in any way improved/changed the access to the seacocks. Mine are accessed through a small plate at the base of the toilet and getting a hand on them is next to impossible. I am going to replace the valves but want to consider all options first.
|
|
oasis36i
Full Member
SO 36i Oasis
Posts: 39
|
Post by oasis36i on Sept 2, 2012 13:38:57 GMT
I have just purchased a brand new SO36i and the holding tank seacock is already too stiff to sensibly used. It will be replaced under warranty before next season. I will ask for a decent quality one, not whatever Jeanneau supplied. It does sound as if they are supplying a poor quality item.
I am considering adding an extra valve just under the holding tank. That way, I can open the main holding tank seacock when arriving at the boat and close when leaving, and just use the extra valve when I wish to empty at sea in between. Not perfect, but it would save having my head behind the toilet while pitching around.
Any other thoughts on this?
|
|
|
|
Post by Tafika II on Sept 2, 2012 14:05:04 GMT
Once you replace the values with good quality values, you should not have any problems as long as you "exercise" them regularly. We've not had any problems since replacing them. The extra value seems like overkill and just another place for a joint to leak.
|
|
|
|
Post by cpetku on Sept 7, 2012 1:16:10 GMT
Hi John, Like many I too need to change out some ball valves  . I went to the trouble of ordering originals from Jeanneau thinking this would be the easiest route since the boat uses British Pipe Thread. The Jeanneau prices for BRASS were actually pretty reasonable but depending upon your location you probably want BRONZE. I settled for BRASS as I'm in fresh water and dezincification shouldn't be a major issue for me. However when I consider how to remove these valves without spilling SHI*  everywhere (mine are stuck closed) I realized the best bet would be to replace the through Hull as well in which case I now need to order these from Jeanneau as well with significant shipping charges from Europe (the Jeanneau ball valves really weren't a deal)  . Do a lot of reading and decide how long you want the parts to last and how many items you want shipped from France. In general buy good stuff locally and you should come out ahead. |
|
. I went to the trouble of ordering originals from Jeanneau thinking this would be the easiest route since the boat uses British Pipe Thread. The Jeanneau prices for BRASS were actually pretty reasonable but depending upon your location you probably want BRONZE. I settled for BRASS as I'm in fresh water and dezincification shouldn't be a major issue for me. However when I consider how to remove these valves without spilling SHI* 
everywhere (mine are stuck closed) I realized the best bet would be to replace the through Hull as well in which case I now need to order these from Jeanneau as well with significant shipping charges from Europe (the Jeanneau ball valves really weren't a deal) 
. Do a lot of reading and decide how long you want the parts to last and how many items you want shipped from France. In general buy good stuff locally and you should come out ahead.