Z spars single line reefing chafing

[hoppy]

My boat SO40 has Z Spar single line reefing and last week I replaced the lines with new 10mm dynema core lines.

On our first attempt to use the first reef, the line was chafing where it leads to the mast at the foot of the boom. By the time I had it all set, the nylon (I guess) outer skin was stripped off leaving a meter or so of bare dynema line.

The old lines were larger than 10mm and were a tight fit at the foot of the boom, so I thought getting 10mm (which is what the manual specifies anyway) was a good idea.

I'm now a bit unsure whether to get the same line and try to be more cautious when reefing, in the hope of not repeating this problem, or wether change the reef setup some how or if I just should get a different type of line. Dynema outer perhaps?

Anyone had similar problems?

The reef lines were setup as z spar specified in the attached diagram.

My 2nd reef line did not suffer the same fate as the pulley wheel on the sail had gone ob, so I just used the ring on the sail, which promptly tore out ;( doh!

[tomina]

Hi Hoppy
I too have similar problems on my SO 40.(Though I don't use Dyneema. I think part of the problem it that there is a lot of friction in this method which has to be overcome to make it work. Try the following. Mark the halyard so you know exactly where the reef lies make fast at this point and then reef up. This should keep the rolling block clear of the boom. Also I have a seperate out haul rigged into the first reef position so I am able to tension this independantly of the full sail clew and this helps greatly to flatten the sail (which is what we want to achieve) when the wind gets up. The second reef position seems to be less critical because A. we use this less often B. preplan this, usually in harbour because we know that the actual or forecast wind will be beyond our personal limits! and C. there is more sail in the way at boom level which prevents the block for the second reef getting low enough to jam on the boom fittings (more friction). Hope that helps. I f anybody else has any other ideas I would very much like to hear them too!! Best wishes
Tomina

[Don Reaves]

I have this same system on my SO35, and with the right technique, it works fine. I find that if I drop the sail first and then tension the reefing line, there is a lot of friction because the line rubs on the flaked sail and the blocks aren't lined up right.

But if you lower the sail while pulling it down with the reefing line, the lines run straight along their intended paths as shown in the diagram. The blocks on the sail will be lined up properly, and there will be little friction with the flaked sail.

Of course, if the problem of chafing the reefing line happened while you were sailing, after the sail was lowered, it probably doesn't matter how you lowered the sail.

Don

[hoppy]

I think the problem happened when I was reefing in, not whilst sailing.

I noticed a couple of marks on the mast rope fitting which indicates that the reefing block was tightly pressed up against it and I guess the chafe happened when I was tensioning the clew.

I like the idea of marking the halyard, especially as my main cover hid the boom so I was not sure how much to loosen the halyard. Maybe I might look at putting a mark on the mast and three on the sail also to line it up correctly. I think I will also tie up the boom cover so I have a clear view of the tack when reefing (at least until I am happy with the halyard/mast marks working.

I will have a play in the marina and keep a very close eye on how the reefing is working.

[sitara]

I too had problems with friction when reefing on my SO 29.2. I now start pulling the reef line in before releasing the halyard with a loose boom vang (!). The end of the boom goes up. Then I release the halyard by about a foot and then continue pulling in the reef. Repeating this process I can get the clew in the right position close to the boom and then adjust the main halyard tension for optimum sail shape. All the while the block on the leading edge of the main remains well clear of the reef line guides on the mast.
Cheers all

[touchngo]

Our SO40 had the same problems with the single line reefing. We've removed it (including the bracket on the mast).

I'm thinking of adding a line to the reef tack points and running that directly to a turning block at the mast base and then back to the cockpit to save having to go forward (we currently need to hook the tack on to the reefing hooks), but to be honest, it hasn't been a major PITA enough to bother as yet.

The lack of friction in comparison to the single line reefing setup is very noticeable.

PT.

[tedp]

On my previous 23ft boat I had a single line reefing system which suffered from friction. I substituted a snap hook fitted to the gooseneck and used a single line for the clew. The improvement in speed of reefing, absence of friction and the set of the reefed sail was remarkable. Having to go forward for a moment to hook on the sail didn't bother me. On my present SO32 I still have the single line system but I'm going to change that as soon as I can. There is a lot of friction and the sail never seems to be set properly.

By the way, using dyneema lines for reefing may be a factor in sail chafe as dyneema won't wear as easily as the sailcloth. I expect it would cut into the sail more than a softer material. I have a dyneema backstay tensioner and it tends to cut into your hand when you hold on to it, less so than a steel wire would, but still it is an unfriendly material.

[Anwen (Deep Joy)]

I too have an SO32, and have found that the reefing system works well, but it has been a bit of a learning process. Some of the things I found were:-

• If you lift the end of the boom with the topping lift before trying to pull the reef in tight, the clew end of the reef will go in easier. Not easing the halyard all the way down helps too;
  
• Fitting a gas strut rod kicker made the above much easier;
  
• The blocks which come sewn into the Voile Technique sails are not very good. The sheave is untreated aluminium, and corrodes quickly so the block seizes. I replaced the sheaves with some plastic or resin ones from a Lewmar block which were the right size, and lubricate the pins with fluorosilicone grease so they run freely.

Obviously, the reef will go in better if the pressure is taken off the sail.