Cutlass bearing SO35

[Solar Wind]

Does anyone have experience of replacing the cutlass bearing on a 2005 so35. if so is there any info on the web onm how top go about it, thanks

[MalcolmP]

I have changed similar bearings several times on my previous boats a Beneteau F305 and an SO34,2 without too much hassle

First thing is to remove the prop. I would strongly recommend using a hydraulic puller - the yard may lend you one or get them to do it, or hire one

Warning the prop will come off with a real bang, also make sure you don't loose the key from the keyway. I would really advise against trying to struggle with mechanical leg pullers they will not usually get enough force

Once the prop is off you should find (maybe covered in antifouling) 2 nylon screw heads that locate the cutless bearing in the P bracket that have to be removed - without breaking them off - use the exactly right size screwdriver to avoid mangling

Next - if you are lucky and this will be temperature dependent -you may be able to get sufficient grip by hand on the rubber top hat section to simply twist the bearing out - if it is still tight on the shaft you could try water lubricating it

If it wont come out by hand you might need to make up a split tube collar to push it out

If you still cant get it to move you may have to remove the prop shaft and then use a complex puller see: www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htm

but this may only be needed if it is a bronze shell type bearing, I suspect the SO35 bearing will be all rubber, so may come out OK without have to remove the shaft

Replacement is simply the opposite, when you order the new bearing - get new nylon set screws as well

Refitting the prop needs to be done with a torque wrench. The prop shaft is normally stopped from rotating by a thick piece of wood inserted to stop the blade tip rotating past the hull

You should be able to get the parts OK from Jeanneau dealer or try Glen Print at Sillette Sonic [phone] [e-mail] which may give you a better price


Malcolm

[Full Circle]

I can confirm that the bearing is all rubber. Mine came out easily, and the job was finished in minutes.

[electricmonk]

One more thing that may or may not be present on your boat.

When you remove the two grub screws from the P bracket have a look inside the holes as I have seen two more underneath! so the ones you remove are simply blocking the hole and keeping the thread clean, the other two are the ones that are holding the cutlass bearing!

The first time I saw this it was only discovered after an elaborate and powerfull puller was assembled on the P bracket to remove a "stuck" cutlass bearing, the bearing did come out with a groove in it indicating the presence of the two "extra" grub screws . . . .

[Solar Wind]

thanks for advise folks

[Solar Wind]

Cutlass bearing replaced without much bother once i got a hydraulic bearing puller to remove the prop.
I was wondering does anyone know how the check the shaft/engine alignment as there is uneven wear on the cutlass bearing top and bottom indicating the shaft might be out of alignment

[MalcolmP]

Feb 15, 2010 17:28:14 GMT Solar Wind said:

Cutlass bearing replaced without much bother once i got a hydraulic bearing puller to remove the prop.
I was wondering does anyone know how the check the shaft/engine alignment as there is uneven wear on the cutlass bearing top and bottom indicating the shaft might be out of alignment

Glad you got it sorted, did the bearing come out by hand and did you leave the shaft in situ?

the shaft will have to checked for alignment when the boat is in the water, as the hull will be slightly twisted when ashore so you may well get a false reading

I have not done this for a few years and it is a bit of an art, but here goes with my approach - others may be wiser ;D

Check the condition of the engine mounts, if they are worn that may be the main problem

Disconnect the shaft coupling (usually 4 bolts) then by hand push the couping back together, the mating surfaces need to be measured for gaps with a set of feeler gauges , you rotate the shaft and check in all the positions you can to see if there is any significant difference

That is usually the easy part. If there is a gap, you need to adjust the engine mounts, this is where experience really pays off as I find it is rather like trying a 3D jigsaw

Hope this helps

Malcolm

[Solar Wind]

Once I got the prop off with a hydraulic puller, the bearing came off very easily without having to go near the shaft, and the new one slide on easily once I put some washing-up liquid to lubricate it. care needs to be taken to align the grub screw holes correctly.

Thanks for advise