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Post by drakesmith on Feb 8, 2023 15:57:11 GMT
Jeanneau installs European 32A shore power inlets even on boats destined for the United States. This means that standard 30A shore power cables will not work (because the inlet connector is wrong and because the cable wiring is different). The cables that come with the boat are custom made for Jeanneau by Marinco so far as I know.
I would like to eliminate the potential issues this will likely cause by replacing the 32A inlet on the boat with a 30A version. Marinco makes a drop-in replacement. Does anyone know how to remove the existing inlet connector? On my NC 1095, I removed the four mounting screws but the connector would not budge as if it were glued in or had some kind of locking ring on the inside.
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Post by Zanshin on Feb 8, 2023 16:12:33 GMT
They probably secured and waterproofed it with 4200 or 5200 at the factory, or perhaps with a more forgiving sealant. I've got the Hubbell 32A 230V connector, and here's the PDF specification. |
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Post by zaphod on Feb 8, 2023 16:33:20 GMT
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Post by Don Reaves on Feb 8, 2023 21:29:52 GMT
Practical Sailor magazine had an article on various solvents for breaking the bond in 3M 5200. Most of the products they tested worked and were recommended, including Boat Life Release, Easy Life Solutions Re-Mov/DSR5, North Star Un-Hesive, and DeBond Marine Formula.
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Post by drakesmith on Feb 8, 2023 23:20:08 GMT
Thanks for your helpful responses.
I will look into those adhesives as well as a SmartPlug retrofit.
The only other potential stopper to moving forward with either a 30A or SmartPlug inlet is the wiring harness -- I hope there is enough slack in the wiring to be able to pull the existing cable several inches out of the inlet hole.
--Drake Smith
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Post by inewbie on Feb 10, 2023 13:08:54 GMT
I changed to the Marinco last season on my NC11. Everything was very straight forward. A 20 minute job (And I am not very "handy).
There was no adhesive on my setup. Check again that you are not being too cautious in manipulating the hardware. Everything came out easily, with about 6 inches of slack on the cords, making the job not too awkward.
Now operated for one season without a fire or shock event. Nice to have the convenience of US standard dockside....
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Post by shaodx on Feb 11, 2023 6:30:02 GMT
Thanks for your helpful responses. I will look into those adhesives as well as a SmartPlug retrofit. The only other potential stopper to moving forward with either a 30A or SmartPlug inlet is the wiring harness -- I hope there is enough slack in the wiring to be able to pull the existing cable several inches out of the inlet hole. --Drake Smith I tried to remove the inlet on my 1095 but had no luck. According to my dealer, the inlet is screwed and sealed with sika flex. Have you removed yours? I finally replaced the inlet core with 30A version but left the cover as it. By the way, 3M 4200/5200 can be removed by Anti-Bond 2015 easily. |
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Post by drakesmith on Feb 11, 2023 14:38:11 GMT
shaodx,
I have not removed my inlet yet as I am waiting for parts. The inlet is definitely sealed with something, not sure if it is an adhesive or not. But after removing the four screws, the inlet housing would not budge even after tapping with a rubber mallet.
I never considered replacing just the inside part, but that sounds like an ideal solution although it isn't obvious to me how the inside connector can be remove from the housing (and only from the outside since the inlet is not accessible from the inside).
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Post by shaodx on Feb 12, 2023 20:23:24 GMT
shaodx, I have not removed my inlet yet as I am waiting for parts. The inlet is definitely sealed with something, not sure if it is an adhesive or not. But after removing the four screws, the inlet housing would not budge even after tapping with a rubber mallet. I never considered replacing just the inside part, but that sounds like an ideal solution although it isn't obvious to me how the inside connector can be remove from the housing (and only from the outside since the inlet is not accessible from the inside). The inlet core is easy to replace as there are only screws. You need a mirror and some spare screws. See my project in attachment. It may give you some ideas. I only have 6 lines: - Water Heater
- Battery Charger
- Inverter(Outlet under driver's seat)
- Forward and starboard cabin
- Port cabin
- Galley(under port side window)
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Post by shaodx on Feb 12, 2023 20:26:38 GMT
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Post by stephenm27 on Feb 15, 2023 17:00:57 GMT
The inlet core is easy to replace as there are only screws. You need a mirror and some spare screws. See my project in attachment. It may give you some ideas. I'm considering replacing the shore power inlet core on my 1095 as well. Were you able to purchase just the replacment core, or did you buy the entire plug and scavenge the core from it? thanks for any info- |
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Post by shaodx on Feb 15, 2023 18:21:20 GMT
The inlet core is easy to replace as there are only screws. You need a mirror and some spare screws. See my project in attachment. It may give you some ideas. I'm considering replacing the shore power inlet core on my 1095 as well. Were you able to purchase just the replacment core, or did you buy the entire plug and scavenge the core from it? thanks for any info- I bought an entire plug, then found the core is replaceable, then started my project.  |
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Post by stephenm27 on Feb 16, 2023 3:18:24 GMT
I bought an entire plug, then found the core is replaceable, then started my project. Ok, I’ve ordered new Marino cores from AMZN. I’ve also partially gotten the upper core removed, but as you know, it’s not the best access. I’ve also dropped nearly every tool down into ghe lazarette as I work. So much fun!  Thanks for the info! |
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