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Post by touchngo on Sept 15, 2009 19:28:38 GMT
Hi,
We've just purchased a SO 40, with US spec Shore Power and are wondering if anyone can help identify the areas we need to focus on to convert the shore power over as we're moving her back to the Med (she's currently in the Caribbean).
We've identified that the Calorifer may need changing (if it really is shore powered) and that the sockets will need changing, but how about the bulbs in the cabin? Are they hooked up at all? I would have thought that they draw from the 12V system, which in turn goes through a charger of some type, but have often been taught the folly of asuming things.
I've downloaded the Owners Manual, but sadly gave up on French in the 4th form.
Apreciate any tips you can offer.
Cheers, PT.
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Post by Zanshin on Sept 15, 2009 21:44:14 GMT
The halogen bulbs will indeed run on 12V. The Jeanneau manual will show you where the AC circuitry run. Going from 110V to 220V is safer than going the other way. all 100V devices will need to be changed as well as the internal plugs as well as the external connection (I think I paid over US$100 for a simple connector plug). Your water heater will need to be changed to heat from AC (it also heats from running the engine), as will your battery charger. Luckily the wiring will be sufficient, unlike going from s 220V to a 110V spec'd boat. Your AC Voltmeter will also need to be changed. Where in the Caribbean is the boat currently located?
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Post by rxc on Sept 16, 2009 10:14:29 GMT
My 43DS was delivered in the US with 110v wiring, and it is now in France, plugged into 220 shore power. I purchased a Charles Industries 3.8kv isolation transformer that I used with 110v in the US, and then I re-wired it to accept 220v when we got to the Azores. Eventually, I will install some 220v French outlets in the boat, because the xfmr produces both 110v and 220v output, and I already have a 220v bus inside the boat for my AC/heat.
Installing an isolation transformer is not difficult, but it does weigh a bit, so you need to think carefully about where to install it, so that it is well supported. If you don't have any experience with 110/220 circuits, you should seek professional help, because doing it wrong could cause some "excitement" on the boat.
Regarding the shore power connections, these are easy if you install a transformer inside the boat. You can keep your existing socket and just change the internal leads to to to the transformer. In Europe you will have to buy a few standard adapters that cost less than 10 euros each, to make up pigtails to connect to your existing shore power cable. Bring one Hubbel connector for the end of a cable from your shore power cable to the pier connection. The European connectors have (mostly) standardized on two sizes, so you will need both because you don't know what will be available on the pier you are assigned.
Also, bring along a good length of outdoor extension cable from the US. Cables in Europe are expensive (connectors are not), and the quality is much lower than the cables in the US. You will not be able to find the cables you are used to(i.e., Marinco), here, except at EXORBITANT prices. Because the voltage is higher, the current is lower, and people use much smaller cables. You will be surprised.
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Post by touchngo on Sept 17, 2009 9:12:48 GMT
Thanks for the input. We're planning on permanently converting her over, so nice to hear that the wiring loom is already up to spec. Will start researching where to purchase the plug sockets, organize a new calorifer/water heater, battery charger and AC Voltmeter.
So we will end up on a US spec, french boat, sailing under a UK flag out of a Turkish port with a fiji/kiwi and uk/aussie 2 person crew. Guess we should have thought a little bit harder as to whether we really wanted to do this.
Cheers again, PT.
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Post by rxc on Sept 17, 2009 13:02:34 GMT
Two more pieces of info for you, if you intend to just convert the 110 outlets to 220v.
1. Although an isolation transformer is useful for converting voltage, it is really valuable in isolating the boat from the shorepower system, so that you don't have to worry about whether the neutral and/or ground wires in the marina or on neighboring boats are properly wired. If they are not, then you could end up with a system that could increase the rate of galvanic corrosion on your boat, and could also be dangerous to swimmers around your boat or your neighbors. I consider this to be the most important benefit of the isolation transformer, and it provides peace-of-mind that is worth every penny I paid for it.
2. Realize that unless you install a GFCI protection device right at the shorepower socket, you will not be in compliance with European specs, which require GFCI for all outlets on the boat. In the US, this is only required on outlets near water (i.e., in the heads).
The conversion is not difficult, if you have the technical knowledge - if you have someone to tell you what to do, it can be done by anyone who can turn a screwdriver and follow instructions. But if done improperly, it can be deadly.
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Post by MalcolmP on Sept 17, 2009 21:11:29 GMT
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Post by no3l on Sept 21, 2009 9:23:06 GMT
Hi The Berker range are available through Franell Electronics and they have a worldwide presence. www.farnell.com/Regards No3l |
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Post by touchngo on Sept 23, 2009 6:13:35 GMT
Thanks for the link. I've been going through Berker site, and had found the sockets (we're going with standard euro two pin ones) but couldn't find the hinged covers on their site (I'm sure they are there, but the site is not the easiest one to navigate). They were on the other site that was posted, but that site one have the two pin euro sockets.
Cheers Muchly.
PT.
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