joker valve replacement

[2953]

Getting some recurring leakage back into the bowl so appears I need to replace the joker valve (inlet side not suspect as the valve is closed.  As this is at best likely unpleasant, can anyone advise procedure to minimize mess.  Jabsco electric. 

[moonshadow]

Not usually a big job. See if you can access all 4 cover screws. On my boat a need a very short screwdriver for one of them. I flush some clean water through and add a bit of tide detergent to reduce smell. Then remove cover and gently seat the new joker valve and O-ring. I will put a little bit of Parker O-ring lube. Make sure you don’t overtighten and crack the cover. Then test. Usually 10 minutes all together.

[2953]

Thanks Moonshadow.  How much flow from the tube to the tank can a guy expect?

[moonshadow]

Not much. Keep a throw away towel handy.

[MartyB]

I'll add pump the tank before doing the work. The pump will not only remove the tank material, I've also found it will remove any material after the joker valve, so less effluent coming back.

Marty

[Don Reaves]

I agree that pumping out first will help, but in my SO35, the piping from the head to the holding tank is fairly long, and pumping out doesn't empty the hose.

Regarding how much will flow out of the hose when you open it to change the joker valve -- that's easy to answer. When it flows back into the bowl and then stops, you can see the amount right in the bowl. In my case, it's quite a lot, and a towel won't come close to containing the mess.

My solution to this problem is to let the bowl fill as much as it will, and then use a hand pump, sponge, or any handy method to empty the bowl into a bucket or other container. Then replace the joker valve and a single paper towel is all you need to clean up.

[MartyB]

Don,

I'm sure the amount coming out of the joker valve may vary depending on a few issues like pipe diam, length to tank, rise etc.
For me any way, I went from about a pint to a few ounces pumping the tank.
I'll agree sponging out the bowl before removing the joker valve fittings also cuts down on how much liquid comes out.
These steps makes cleanup much easier, quicker, fewer germ issues etc.

Marty

[Don Reaves]

I'm not sure I've ever bothered pumping out before replacing the joker valve during the season. But I always pump out at the end of the season for winter lay-up. The problem in that case is that the joker valve is almost always working at that point, so there's nothing in the bowl. For me, that's when things get messy.

Last year was the first time I took the easy way out and pumped anti-freeze through the head rather than removing the joker valve and emptying the hose. I've always avoided using anti-freeze in the head because I've read that it can be bad for the rubber parts. But things have worked flawlessly this year, so I intend to do it again.

I'm glad it helps for you, and it will probably help for most everybody. I agree, pumping out is a good thing to do before replacing the valve.

[whiteswan]

Have you thought of using car “windscreen wash” instead of antifreeze? It should be kinder on any rubber seals.

[jy51]

Aug 28, 2022 12:35:12 GMT 2953 said:

Getting some recurring leakage back into the bowl so appears I need to replace the joker valve (inlet side not suspect as the valve is closed.  As this is at best likely unpleasant, can anyone advise procedure to minimize mess.  Jabsco electric. 

Yes, the best way to attempt this is to get someone else to do it for you, whilst you are far from the boat!

joking or should that be joker valves aside, I have recently done this on my Jabsco electric fresh water flush toilet and other than the obvious, drain the bowel then remove the white waste pipe, plugging it with a cloth, the real problem could be more serious.

I found after three years the whole length of the white tubing from the pump to the holding tank was blocked solid with a hard limescale mixed in with poo, poking to try and remove this was a waste of time and the whole pipe had to be replaced, not an easy task, which necessitated remove backs of cupboards and finding an extortionist to reach out of sight fittings.

I believe this is a design fault, my waste tube is over 3 meters long and from the toilet has a direct rise of over 1 meter, to empty the pipe of all content and to leave clean water would probably take over 20 flushes each time the bowl is emptied, and of course nobody does this, so the content just stays in the pipe all the time being pushed along until the next visit to the heads..  A shorter run of pipe would enable the contents to be emptied into the holding take quicker.

I'm wondering if a strong toilet descaler flushed through the toilet on a regular bases might cure the problem, I have seen one called TOLEX and is available online in plastic containers from 750ml up to 20 Litres, not cheap at about £36.99 plus delivery for a 5 litre container but far better than spending best part of a day in 30 degrees heat and ankle deep in the poo.

I will be purchasing some after my summer cruise and will start to use this on the other toilet in the hope that the same problem dosen't arise.



 

[bereboot]

Vinager dissolves the built up. When you leave the boat for a week or so, pump 1 lr through the toilet and leave it to work. We adopteren this on oud previous boat and had no issues for 20 years.

[Hawk]

I had the backup in the bowl begin this year. I read somewhere that the Jabsco replacement joker valves tend to leak but I replaced it anyways and screwed it all back together. Sure enough the backup is fixed but when I use the electric flush I'm getting a leak from between the the location where the 3 screws attach the two pieces together. Looks like the duck valve isn't sealing, as predicted.


I have the Jabsco Quiet flush electric on my 2013 SO 409. Any thoughts as it is not easy to get at two of the screws and they are in danger of stripping. I may just try to seal with 4200 on the outside and if it holds, one day replace with Rariton:)

Any ideas appreciated. Tom