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Post by vasko on Aug 27, 2019 11:15:44 GMT
Beginning of the new season ?
Or
End of season before leaving on the hard ?
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Post by johannes on Aug 27, 2019 11:33:24 GMT
I vote for end of season, to get rid of all the corrosive stuff in the old oil before hibernation.
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Post by Don Reaves on Aug 27, 2019 12:42:01 GMT
I agree with johannes. On my previous boat, I did both. My current mechanic, who is very well respected in these parts, said that was excessive, and recommend changing the oil at the end of the season.
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Post by alenka on Aug 27, 2019 15:51:06 GMT
At the end to get the old, slightly acid, oil out of the system. New filters of course too. When on the hard flush out the raw water cooling system with an anti-corrosion/anti freeze, then remove the impeller (if you think you might want to use it again the following season) and take off the fan belt.
Just make sure you leave yourself a reminder not to try and start the engine!
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Post by johannes on Aug 28, 2019 7:46:58 GMT
I never remove the alternator belt. What would the purpose be?
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Post by alenka on Aug 28, 2019 8:01:50 GMT
I guess that it allows a thorough inspection for damage or cracks... help prevent it becoming misshaped... And maybe remove a little stress on the alternator!?!
It was taught as part of my RYA diesel engine course and subsequently re-affirmed by two marine engineer friends who give me advice and guidance from time to time. I confess if I am running out of time then this is the one item that gets left, but it is not a hard task to complete by any stretch of the imagination.
Actually, that's not true. If I know I am going to get rid of the impeller that sometimes get left to the pre-launch service. In doing so I know (mine) is going to get a bit of a memory in its shape over winter and not fit for use.
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Post by ForGrinsToo on Aug 28, 2019 16:01:26 GMT
Oil change before layup for reasons already mentioned. Impeller before launch, also for reasons already mentioned.
I never thought of removing or even de-tensioning of the alternator or water pump belt, but it does make some sense. On the other hand, that would require me to re-tension before launch and I am not sufficiently confident that I would do that properly. So far, I have just had a mechanic replace them after about 3 - 4 seasons.
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Post by vasko on Aug 28, 2019 20:34:03 GMT
And what about condensation in the engine during winter ?
e.g the oil in the spring will have good amount of condense water in it ?
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Post by alenka on Aug 28, 2019 21:03:12 GMT
The two engineers advising me look after a couple of hundred charter boats so I guess they have the benefit of experience and if it was better to change oil in the spring they would do so. I am not an expert so I listen to those that are.
Re-tensioning the belt is not difficult, at least not on my engine. Just one bolt generally. A tension that allows a quarter twist in the belt is about right. If it is too slack it will often squeal at low revs.
Last year I was shown pictures of a yacht that had suffered a belt failure. Seemingly it had rubbed to the point of giving off smoke which was mistaken for an engine fire and two dry powder extinguishers were let off into the engine compartment. However, the powder had not been contained within the engine compartment and had spread thorough out the boat. All soft furnishing we're ruined. Woodwork varnish had been attack by its corrosive nature and the engine required a major rebuild. All in all a very sad boat that needed a lot of work and money to put it back into service.
Which reminds me to add some Co2 extinguishers as a first line of defence and only revert to the powder ones if absolutely necessary.
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Post by ForGrinsToo on Aug 28, 2019 21:45:03 GMT
And what about condensation in the engine during winter? e.g the oil in the spring will have good amount of condense water in it ? In the engine? There's no air circulating through it, so I don't see why that would be an issue. It's not like a thin-wall tank that can "oil can" or maybe have a leaking deck fitting. On the engine? Maybe, given that the boat might warm up much faster than the steel. Some people heat their boats through the winter, or store inside. We have a breathable cover (like Sunbrella) and put out containers of dessicant. Others more knowledgeable than I should comment, and Alenka seems to have the better sources. But, oh, man, the fire extinguisher problem. |
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Post by Mistroma on Aug 28, 2019 22:08:18 GMT
I do the same as others. 1) Change oil at end of season I guess lower sulphur in fuel and better oil additives should reduce acidic build-up in the oil. However, you will be changing the oil and it makes sense to leave the engine filled with clean oil when stored over the winter. 2) Flush raw water circuit I run the engine ashore with fresh water fed to top of the filter and seacock turned off. I put in a litre of coolant at the end and turn off when it has been pushed through. The coolant is more for the corrosion inhibitor than any risk of freezing. I open the seacock and let it all drain over winter. I also spray corrosion inhibitor inside the end of the heat exchanger (easy to remove the hose and all done in 5 mins.). 3) Remove fan belt It guarantees that I'll examine it at the stat of the season and also check the tension. It reduces the chance of it taking a set by sitting in one position (probably more of a myth than a significant risk). My current belt is the original one from 2009 and it still seems to be fine. I do carry 2 spares and that might be why I haven't had a problem.  4) Remove impeller I haven't ever seen any sign of damage but do change it every 2 years (once 3 years, mea culpa). I imagine that damage due to sitting in one position for 6 months is more likely than a fan belt having that issue. 5) Spray with fogging oil I remove the exhaust elbow for examination and spray fogging oil into the elbow and exhaust manifold before reassembling for storage. I also spray some on a rage and stick it into the air intake (with a lot visible so no chance of leaving it in next year). I can't see how there would be damaging moisture build up with fresh oil in a static engine and fogging oil sitting in exhaust and air inlet. I do quite a few things such as WD40 on electrical connections and checks on other items. |
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Post by johannes on Aug 29, 2019 10:27:19 GMT
I also put a canister with calcium chloride as dehumidifier in the engine room (in addition to several at other places in the boat). I empty them and fill up the calcium chloride 2-3 times per winter.
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Post by Mistroma on Aug 31, 2019 6:18:00 GMT
I also put a canister with calcium chloride as dehumidifier in the engine room (in addition to several at other places in the boat). I empty them and fill up the calcium chloride 2-3 times per winter. I used to do the same in Scotland and had about 10-20kgs on the boat. I can't return to replace but still fill 4 containers before leaving at end of season. Probably a waste of time these days as I can't change them over winter. |
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Post by ianpowolny on Aug 31, 2019 6:40:00 GMT
I change the oil when the hour meter reads the next 250 hours. The boat is 2008 and the engine has done less than 1200 hours. Do you guys do more than 120 hours each year?
Ian
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Post by Don Reaves on Aug 31, 2019 10:52:15 GMT
I typically put 40 to 50 hours on the engine each year. It’s a sailboat, after all.  |
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Post by alex1949 on Aug 31, 2019 15:12:46 GMT
Reading all.......
I still wonder if I somehow overdo regarding the oil\filters replacements. Volvo book says at least once a year and since my
sailing boat will never reach the annual hours for replacement I keep asking myself weather to obey Volvo book or to go
Ian's 250 hours ? My bank manager who is a keen skipper vote for Ian.
I must confess, I try to go Volvo but more than often I allow myself go Ian's way and that makes it 18 month interval
between oil change. Diesel filters,we all use two in a raw.First stage is getting quite dirty, the secondary on the engine is
clean as new.
What are the rest of you doing........? (Look, our motors are not working hard at all,at least mine. I average 100 relaxed engine
hours a year)
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Post by alenka on Aug 31, 2019 16:31:44 GMT
Look upon it as insurance.
I change the oil to get rid of the acid when I leave it over winter and hopefully make the engine last a bit longer.
I change the impeller because if it breaks it is a pain to get at and remove and my wife will not be impressed if the sea is running a tad wild at the time.
Likewise with all filters for fuel and oil. On my last boat they always seemed to get clogged at times when you really didn't want them to.
I inspect the fan belt but it gets reused if it is in good order.
I always carry spares.
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Post by vasko on Sept 1, 2019 7:05:26 GMT
Look upon it as insurance. I change the oil to get rid of the acid when I leave it over winter and hopefully make the engine last a bit longer. I change the impeller because if it breaks it is a pain to get at and remove and my wife will not be impressed if the sea is running a tad wild at the time. Likewise with all filters for fuel and oil. On my last boat they always seemed to get clogged at times when you really didn't want them to. I inspect the fan belt but it gets reused if it is in good order. I always carry spares. Te impeller - I used to change it every year - but over time learned that it last easily between 4 and 5 years - e.g now I’m changing it every 3 years... |
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Post by alenka on Sept 1, 2019 8:41:06 GMT
It's whatever works for you Vasko. And of course every engine is different.
I know this year I have a tight turnaround from lift out to getting on the aeroplane so my impeller will be left in place until the spring. When I get back it will have developed a memory so it comes out and gets thrown. The cost for a new one is minimal so even if I take it out now it will only be used as an emergency back up for a new one next year.
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Post by alenka on Sept 1, 2019 8:45:20 GMT
Reading all....... I still wonder if I somehow overdo regarding the oil\filters replacements. Volvo book says at least once a year and since my sailing boat will never reach the annual hours for replacement I keep asking myself weather to obey Volvo book or to go Ian's 250 hours ? My bank manager who is a keen skipper vote for Ian. I must confess, I try to go Volvo but more than often I allow myself go Ian's way and that makes it 18 month interval between oil change. Diesel filters,we all use two in a raw.First stage is getting quite dirty, the secondary on the engine is clean as new. What are the rest of you doing........? (Look, our motors are not working hard at all,at least mine. I average 100 relaxed engine hours a year) 100 hours per annum. I would have thought that was about right for an oil change. In aircraft they are generally obliged to change the oil every 50 hours. |
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Post by vasko on Sept 2, 2019 6:44:16 GMT
It's whatever works for you Vasko. And of course every engine is different. I know this year I have a tight turnaround from lift out to getting on the aeroplane so my impeller will be left in place until the spring. When I get back it will have developed a memory so it comes out and gets thrown. The cost for a new one is minimal so even if I take it out now it will only be used as an emergency back up for a new one next year. Yep cost is minimal and better change it - also I put a easy change kit on mine and it is really no problem to change to be honest... the thing that bothers me this year is a small leak from gearbox seals - not clear witch one  and will need to put the new gasket kit £200 for next season... |
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Post by ianpowolny on Sept 2, 2019 18:42:48 GMT
Vasco,
What’s an “easy change kit”?
Alenka,
The manual for the 4JH4-TE says 250 hours or annually.
Ian
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Post by vasko on Sept 2, 2019 20:22:01 GMT
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and will need to put the new gasket kit £200 for next season...