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Post by NZL50505 on Feb 15, 2019 8:33:19 GMT
2006 42DS. Arrived at marina and despite being connected to shore power with charging and AC plugs working we have no hot water.
It’s switched on on AC panel but no heat.
Any tips? Fuses or breakers?
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Post by Bora on Feb 15, 2019 8:40:33 GMT
2006 42DS. Arrived at marina and despite being connected to shore power with charging and AC plugs working we have no hot water. It’s switched on on AC panel but no heat. Any tips? Fuses or breakers? Is it a Quick calorifier? There is a fuse from the supply to the heater itself which may have gone or there is a manual reset button on the unit if the water temperature has gone too high. Instructions on page 12 www.quicknauticalequipment.com/resources/downloads_qne-prod/1/BoilerB3_15-80%20Rev06A.pdf |
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Post by NZL50505 on Feb 15, 2019 9:21:33 GMT
Thanks. Do you know where the fuse is?
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Post by Bora on Feb 15, 2019 9:29:59 GMT
I've never found one on mine, might just be the breaker on the main panel. My water heater is just plugged in to a 240AC outlet next to it so i'd assume that if there was going to be one (in addition to the breaker) then it would be between the plug and the heater.
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Post by NZL50505 on Feb 15, 2019 9:35:40 GMT
Yes it’s a Quick. I can see the thermostat but not the reset button. Do you know where that is?
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Post by Bora on Feb 15, 2019 9:37:44 GMT
Off my boat at the moment but should be next to the thermostat.  |
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Post by Trevor on Feb 15, 2019 11:47:46 GMT
Hello NZL8970,
The mains circuit for the water heater simply comes from the breaker on main switch panel. It has no fuse in circuit to the outlet located under the settee near the water heater. I guess you still have hot water if you run the engine for 15 minutes, even if the heater element is open circuit.
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by Mistroma on Feb 15, 2019 14:35:29 GMT
Ours went very suddenly a few years ago. Power tripped as soon as it was turned on because there was a short. They can also fail open (multimeter will show infinite resistance across terminals). You could check by unplugging at the socket in the locker and checking continuity across the pins on the plug and again at the connections on the element.
A replacement was pretty expensive in Spain, approx. 80 euro I think. I found a good source in the UK with decent prices and bought a couple of elements. I can dig out details if it would help.
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Post by Tafika II on Feb 15, 2019 15:33:59 GMT
The heating element shorted and burned out on our hot water heater a few years ago. It would heat from the engine, but trip the breaker when in 120VAC power. Had a distinct burning smell. Element is #9 below.  |
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Post by NZL50505 on Feb 16, 2019 0:32:08 GMT
Position of heater with thermostat facing away from me makes it difficult to confirm if it has reset button or not. I tried pressing into the small recess but it didn’t feel like pushing a popped switch back in.
Oh well, add it to the list for the next electrician’s visit...
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Post by Mistroma on Feb 16, 2019 19:01:14 GMT
Position of heater with thermostat facing away from me makes it difficult to confirm if it has reset button or not. I tried pressing into the small recess but it didn’t feel like pushing a popped switch back in. Oh well, add it to the list for the next electrician’s visit... I don't think our's has a reset. Should be obvious if you take a picture, I often do that when things are difficult to access. The failure I had wasn't a faulty thermostat, it was a faulty element. It could be either but I'd bet on an element. Really easy to remove the thermostat anyway if it is the same model shown above. Turn off power (Mine has a plug beside the tank, I just pull that out) Remove the cover (3 screws, I imagine you've already done this) Undo the screws holding the cable clamp (not shown on diagram but easy to spot, just follow the wire under the cover) Undo the small nut retaining the earth wire (13 in the diagram, try not to lose the nut and washers) Pull the thermostat out, it just plugs into the top of the element Don't worry about a water leak, the thermostat slides into a tube and never comes into direct contact with water. You can take the thermostat home to check, much cheaper than bringing someone to your boat. Less time for the electrician as well if he does come to the boat. A really obvious check when it first failed would be to flick the water heater switch on/off a few times and watch the meter closely. A working element would cause the needle to move slightly each time the power turned on. The fact that you aren't getting hot water tells you the same thing, but you have to wait a while to find out.  My view is that it's a trivial job to fit a new element and thermostat. It saves paying an electrician for a simple job. You will end up with a couple of useful spares if it still doesn't work and also provide the electrician with useful information. |
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Post by zofiasailing on Feb 18, 2019 22:02:34 GMT
2006 42DS. Arrived at marina and despite being connected to shore power with charging and AC plugs working we have no hot water. It’s switched on on AC panel but no heat. Any tips? Fuses or breakers? Ours is also a 2006 built SO42DS and we’ve had the same experience. A 40l Quick HWS? Replace the element. The annode’s gone. We’ve replaced ours twice over the years. If you’re unable to source in NZ, contact Gary info@bcaaust.com.au +61 418 497 029. He will ship internationally. Very efficient and helpful South African guy located on Gold Coast. Item FVSLRSB0822SA 800w 220V element. The last one cost $182 AUD in May’18 The HWS is located in a body contorting location and you’ll need a special spanner to remove and then replace the element. For the first replacement we borrowed a giant ring spanner from a machine workshop. More recently we found an adjustable wrench with tapered ‘claw’ that was a perfect for this job. We wrote about this boat-job in a blog post that contains photos. See zofiasailing.blogspot.com/2018/09/out-of-hot-water.htmlGood luck. Hope this helps. Eva and Brian SV Zofia |
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Post by Mistroma on Feb 23, 2019 18:50:29 GMT
I bought a couple from Penguin Engineering in UK around Jan. 2016 and they sold 500W, 800W & 1200W versions for £30 + VAT & Delivery. We bought 1200W size and still have one as a spare. £100 seems expensive but I guess that's the local rate.
Penguin units were ATI heating element unit made by Reco. My original 1200W unit was about 11" long and marked Thermowatt, type RT. I think the thermostats were only around £15 + VAT & delivery.
I spent days trying to get the correct tool in Spain. Easy in UK but they had never heard of it and didn't recognise the picture. I eventually worked out that I can put a set of mole grips on at 90 degrees to the tank end. I clamp it on the faces fairly lightly and put a screwdriver through the jaws to act as a lever.
Really easy to do once you get the hang of it. I've never bothered to get the proper tool even though I take the element out every year. The element does benefit from an acid rinse if hard water has been used. I also hose the tank and add some vinegar.
I think the original Jeanneau version lasted for 5 years until we reached a hard water area. The replacement came with an anode and only lasted 2 years. The anode was a huge mistake, it dissolved very quickly and left orange sediment everywhere inside the tank. No anode on the original or either replacement and no sign of any corrosion in the tank.
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Post by regi on Dec 31, 2023 14:50:04 GMT
I've never found one on mine, might just be the breaker on the main panel. My water heater is just plugged in to a 240AC outlet next to it so i'd assume that if there was going to be one (in addition to the breaker) then it would be between the plug and the heater. Did you replace the breaker then? Did that work? Any ideas where to find this breaker in the US? |
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