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Post by jy51 on Feb 8, 2019 12:32:53 GMT
I'm sure this subject has been covered many times before, but just a reminder for those with battery problem like overheating and charging difficulties.
Check the charger manual for the correct set up of switches for your type of batteries.
Most manufacturer's of charger's have a factory set default configuration which I don't believe Jeanneau touch or verify when installing. My new boat has Lithium batteries, and knowing this was a relatively new option I was a little concerned about whether Jeanneau had configured the charger to accept Lithium, they had not. After reading the user manual it was necessary to change the factory default setting. Not a difficult job, as long as you can access the charger, just the need to move a row of switches in the correct order. This will configure the charger to bulk charge at the correct voltage and cut out after the correct timing.
Different charging configurations are required for Wet AGM, Gel and Lithium batteries, if you have never checked, maybe it would be wise to do so.
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Post by jdl01 on Feb 8, 2019 17:01:39 GMT
I don't know about other models, but with the so 379, the charger is mounted in such a cramped location that you have to unscrew the whole unit including some cable strapping to be able to remove the lower front panel to access the setting switches. In my case a lax commissioning contractor felt it was too much effort and ignored the fact that he was installing new AGM batteries. It's worth the time and effort to pull the unit and check for yourself, particularly if you don't use the default lead/acid batteries.
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Post by wolferich on Feb 8, 2019 21:11:39 GMT
It surely makes a lot of sense to check the correct setting of the charger for any specific set of batteries. Unfortunately, even with correct settings problems eventually occur as described in another recent thread regarding Cristec chargers. It would be good if wrong settings would have been the explanation but that seems not to be the case in many cases.
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Post by Mistroma on Feb 9, 2019 0:33:57 GMT
I know that the choice of settings wasn't great on the Cristec fitted to my 2009 42DS (CS2 model??).
I seem to remember that the difference between boost and float was always 0.6V. One setting might be 14.2V dropping to 13.6V float another might be 13.8V with 13.2V float. I'm working from memory so figures may not be correct.
I have Trojan T105s and would ideally like to reach 14.8V and drop to float of 13.2V, that's 1.6V difference. I used the potentiometer to adjust output for one battery type to give 14.8V but float is then too high at 14.2V. It isn't a big problem as I'm rarely on shore power and mostly use solar. The generator is never run long enough to get to float at anchor.
I flick one DIP switch when spending time in harbour and that setting gives an acceptable compromise of 14.0V and 13.4V float.
I don't know if newer chargers are any better but did find configuration options lacking on mine. Certainly nothing at all suitable for T105s via DIP switches without also tweaking the potentiometer.
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Post by vasko on Feb 9, 2019 6:57:55 GMT
I'm sure this subject has been covered many times before, but just a reminder for those with battery problem like overheating and charging difficulties. Check the charger manual for the correct set up of switches for your type of batteries. Most manufacturer's of charger's have a factory set default configuration which I don't believe Jeanneau touch or verify when installing. My new boat has Lithium batteries, and knowing this was a relatively new option I was a little concerned about whether Jeanneau had configured the charger to accept Lithium, they had not. After reading the user manual it was necessary to change the factory default setting. Not a difficult job, as long as you can access the charger, just the need to move a row of switches in the correct order. This will configure the charger to bulk charge at the correct voltage and cut out after the correct timing. Different charging configurations are required for Wet AGM, Gel and Lithium batteries, if you have never checked, maybe it would be wise to do so. What type of Li battery the boat is equiped with ? Do they have a built-in BMS ? If yes the the settings of the charger are not important - the BMS will manage the charging
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Post by jy51 on Feb 9, 2019 7:02:39 GMT
I know that the choice of settings wasn't great on the Cristec fitted to my 2009 42DS (CS2 model??). I seem to remember that the difference between boost and float was always 0.6V. One setting might be 14.2V dropping to 13.6V float another might be 13.8V with 13.2V float. I'm working from memory so figures may not be correct. I have Trojan T105s and would ideally like to reach 14.8V and drop to float of 13.2V, that's 1.6V difference. I used the potentiometer to adjust output for one battery type to give 14.8V but float is then too high at 14.2V. It isn't a big problem as I'm rarely on shore power and mostly use solar. The generator is never run long enough to get to float at anchor. I flick one DIP switch when spending time in harbour and that setting gives an acceptable compromise of 14.0V and 13.4V float. I don't know if newer chargers are any better but did find configuration options lacking on mine. Certainly nothing at all suitable for T105s via DIP switches without also tweaking the potentiometer. Mistroma, my previous boat had a bank of Trojan 105s managed by a very expensive MasterVolt charger inverter system. They lasted 11 years of heavy live aboard use, I replaced them with a new set of identical batteries and after one year I started to have overheating problems, never found the true source of the problem as I sold the boat but not until I had replaced two ruined, party melted batteries, "Oh the magic of electricity!"
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Post by jy51 on Feb 9, 2019 7:19:53 GMT
I'm sure this subject has been covered many times before, but just a reminder for those with battery problem like overheating and charging difficulties. Check the charger manual for the correct set up of switches for your type of batteries. Most manufacturer's of charger's have a factory set default configuration which I don't believe Jeanneau touch or verify when installing. My new boat has Lithium batteries, and knowing this was a relatively new option I was a little concerned about whether Jeanneau had configured the charger to accept Lithium, they had not. After reading the user manual it was necessary to change the factory default setting. Not a difficult job, as long as you can access the charger, just the need to move a row of switches in the correct order. This will configure the charger to bulk charge at the correct voltage and cut out after the correct timing. Different charging configurations are required for Wet AGM, Gel and Lithium batteries, if you have never checked, maybe it would be wise to do so. What type of Li battery the boat is equiped with ? Do they have a built-in BMS ? If yes the the settings of the charger are not important - the BMS will manage the charging Vasko, they are made by Epsilon in the Netherlands and are called Super B, they are Lithium Iron Phosphate, the type recommended for boats, and in common to most, they have a BMS built in. however, although the built in system manages the charge, if the charger is incorrectly set it will not be offering the maximum voltage required or cut off times to take advantage of the fast charging that these batteries are capable of achieving.
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Post by vasko on Feb 9, 2019 7:59:50 GMT
If the BMS is proper(wich I assume) you actually need a stady source about 15v with no clever floating , initial charging etc.
When charging from the engine your batteries will be charged to about 70-80% max with 14.4v from the alternatir - which is actually good as they will last longer
In brief as less clever is the charger is better for the Li batteries with BMS - mire important is how stady the charger power is e.g alternator current is best.
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Post by jy51 on Feb 9, 2019 9:16:43 GMT
If the BMS is proper(wich I assume) you actually need a stady source about 15v with no clever floating , initial charging etc. When charging from the engine your batteries will be charged to about 70-80% max with 14.4v from the alternatir - which is actually good as they will last longer In brief as less clever is the charger is better for the Li batteries with BMS - mire important is how stady the charger power is e.g alternator current is best. Hence, the need to change the charger calibration to benefit from the higher voltage lithium batteries will demand yet still being able to manage their own boost and cycle stages with their in built BMS.
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Post by Mistroma on Feb 9, 2019 12:11:41 GMT
Mistroma, my previous boat had a bank of Trojan 105s managed by a very expensive MasterVolt charger inverter system. They lasted 11 years of heavy live aboard use, I replaced them with a new set of identical batteries and after one year I started to have overheating problems, never found the true source of the problem as I sold the boat but not until I had replaced two ruined, party melted batteries, "Oh the magic of electricity!" A friend always pays the yard to look after his batteries. One T105 lookalike exploded in winter and others were ruined several years ago. Yard hadn't spotted anything and he decided to spend about 5,000-6,000 euro on very expensive AGMs. He moved about 2,000 nm to another yard the next year and discovered his batteries were ruined again by following Spring. Apparently his very expensive charger had failed in a boost mode. The yard only checked the batteries were still charging and warranty wasn't applicable. It cost him a lot of money because he didn't monitor his batteries (or didn't understand the available data). I am at completely the opposite end of that spectrum. I can tell you the maximum and minimum Voltage for any day, volume of electrolyte added to each cell (total and individual amounts over 7 years), minimum and maximum charge, SG history pre cell and on and on. Very anal I'm afraid. I'm certain I'll be caught out by something and my worry this year is lack of remote Voltage monitoring. The alarm system failed and I'm going to build a new Arduino based alarm system to bring back that facility. I found it comforting to be able to check battery Voltage on a boat a few thousand miles away.
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