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Post by geitz on Nov 5, 2017 14:43:01 GMT
This winter's project: re-core the mast step as the original wood core has gone soft. This is something that I, and the surveyor, missed when we bought the boat in 2015. The mast step has been pushing into the deck under the step. Taking out one of the deck wire glands revealed wet core. We unstepped the mast and began cutting away the top layer of deck (this could be done from inside, but that would require removal of the compression post). Today I'll get all the wood removed from between the upper and lower glass layers. It looks like Jeanneau used whatever scrap wood was laying around that day. It's not marine plywood.  |
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Post by MartyB on Nov 5, 2017 16:49:48 GMT
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Post by geitz on Nov 5, 2017 23:37:41 GMT
Thanks Marty! The reason I'm going through the top is the deck under the step became concave and seems to want to stay that way.
Mike
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Post by pdodds on Nov 19, 2017 4:30:33 GMT
Hi Mike... following your thread here as I will most likely be tackling this at the end of next season..
Cheers
Paul
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Post by sailbleu on Nov 19, 2017 6:58:01 GMT
This winter's project: re-core the mast step as the original wood core has gone soft. This is something that I, and the surveyor, missed when we bought the boat in 2015. The mast step has been pushing into the deck under the step. Taking out one of the deck wire glands revealed wet core. We unstepped the mast and began cutting away the top layer of deck (this could be done from inside, but that would require removal of the compression post). Today I'll get all the wood removed from between the upper and lower glass layers. It looks like Jeanneau used whatever scrap wood was laying around that day. It's not marine plywood. Any progress yet geitz ? Please let us know. Regards |
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Post by geitz on Nov 21, 2017 0:27:03 GMT
I missed a couple of weekends' work, but here's the progress thus far................. Result of grinding the existing FRP and Fitting the G10. The hole on the upper right is where I leaned on the existing laminate. It turned out to be mostly resin and shattered. No problem, West System epoxy and new fiberglass will take care of it:  1/2" G10 all dry fitted. There's at least a 1/4" space above the G10 to make up, so I've ordered another piece of1/4" G10. When it arrives, I'll cut and dry-fit, then start cutting out the fiberglass schedules (layers).  Mike |
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Post by MalcolmP on Nov 21, 2017 8:13:44 GMT
More photos and some brief notes would be wonderful for our hints and tips section in due course.
Malcolm
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Post by sailbleu on Nov 21, 2017 8:25:47 GMT
Mike ,
what is G10 exactly ?
I take it that it's wood yes ?
Would it be possible to just fill the space with thickened epoxy resin ?
Looking forward to see the end result .
Regards
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Post by geitz on Nov 23, 2017 15:10:55 GMT
More photos and some brief notes would be wonderful for our hints and tips section in due course. Malcolm Malcolm, Once I'm all done, I'll put it all together with details for Hints and Tips. Mike |
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Post by geitz on Nov 23, 2017 15:15:31 GMT
Mike , what is G10 exactly ? I take it that it's wood yes ? Would it be possible to just fill the space with thickened epoxy resin ? Looking forward to see the end result . Regards G10 is a solid fiberglass/epoxy material. It's very dense and very strong. It would be possible to fill the entire area with thickened epoxy, but probably not quite as strong. I had thought about thickened epoxy, but I would have added chopped fiberglass to give it more strength. My boatyard mentors didn't like the idea, so therefore, G10. Mike |
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Post by Don Reaves on Nov 23, 2017 16:12:53 GMT
G10 is used to make printed circuit boards, or at least it was the last time I worked in that domain, 15 years ago.
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Post by MalcolmP on Nov 23, 2017 16:39:48 GMT
G10 is used to make printed circuit boards, or at least it was the last time I worked in that domain, 15 years ago. Yes Don, looks versatile stuff and I like the quote for G10 " ...water absorption is virtually nil" from following supplier h www.eplastics.com/G9-G10-FR4-glass-epoxy-sheet. Looks like could be used in many marine applications, backing pads etc |
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Post by pirateroberts on Nov 23, 2017 18:49:15 GMT
I just Bought a 2002 43DS. I had the choice of 3 boats for sale all same model within few years of each other, all had signs of the same issue, sinking mast step. This issue wasnt considered in the one I bought as this issue was present in all three.
I had it fixed by removing the entire step (which is quite deep on a 43DS) and replacing with layeres of glassed in Coosa board. The seller paid for all the work which was observed at every stage by myself and my surveyor.
The step is very strong and water proof now. The original was weak design and very poor choice of material, but it wasnt a very difficult fix.
I can send the PPT of the photos if anyone interested.
Dave
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Post by MalcolmP on Nov 24, 2017 14:05:07 GMT
I can send the PPT of the photos if anyone interested. Dave Hi Dave Yes indeed, I have sent you a PM message with my email. The info from you, Geitz and others should make a valuable Hints and Tips guide in due course Thanks Malcolm |
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Post by geitz on Nov 25, 2017 0:11:56 GMT
I just Bought a 2002 43DS. I had the choice of 3 boats for sale all same model within few years of each other, all had signs of the same issue, sinking mast step............................................. I can send the PPT of the photos if anyone interested. Dave Yes, I'm very interested in how your mast step/deck was repaired. Mike |
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Post by geitz on Dec 3, 2017 14:33:03 GMT
The 1/2" G10 did not completely fill void left after removing the wood core, so I laminated about 3/16" of glass at home. Once it was cured, I washed it to remove the amine blush, let it dry, then cut and fitted the pieces. These were cut into rectangles that overlap the joints in the underlying G10. I numbered all the pieces in the order to install and traced the outlines of each so that once we began pushing them into the epoxy, we'd know that we got them in all the way. Using copious amounts of thickened West System epoxy to glue in the G10 and pre-fabricated glass filler. Push as much of the epoxy into the surrounding spaces. When you push in the G10, the epoxy fills (hopefully) all the voids:  |
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Post by geitz on Dec 3, 2017 14:48:18 GMT
Before anything was glued in, we cut all the fiberglass laminations and stacked them up in the proper order. The three topmost overlapping laminations were trace onto the existing FRP, to help us place them in the correct order and location. It's really simple, but once you get started laminating, it's easy to forget where everything goes. My friend did all the epoxy mixing while I did the laminating. He mixed up small batches to help prevent the epoxy kicking off too fast.  |
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Post by geitz on Dec 3, 2017 14:52:15 GMT
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Post by MalcolmP on Dec 3, 2017 18:34:07 GMT
Geitz. Great information and photo's ;-) Not wanting to open a can of worms, but did the step in the bilge that the compression post rests on in the 36.2 have any issue? There have been reports that some Jeanneau's , including the 43DS, could have wood deterioration from water penetration there as well. jeanneau.proboards.com/thread/1635Look forward to seeing the final completion images. Malcolm |
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Post by geitz on Dec 3, 2017 23:14:43 GMT
<snip> Not wanting to open a can of worms, but did the step in the bilge that the compression post rests on in the 36.2 have any issue? Malcolm, There was no indication that the bottom of the compression post was sinking into the floor support. If it ever does, I'll have another fun project! Mike |
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Post by sailbleu on Dec 4, 2017 8:28:44 GMT
I wonder , would it be possible to fill the complete hole with thickened epoxy , you know glass balloons or aerosil as filler ?
Would love to see how you finish up the visable surface of this repair Mike , will you be using gelcoat ?
Regards
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Post by MalcolmP on Dec 4, 2017 9:00:50 GMT
<snip> Not wanting to open a can of worms, but did the step in the bilge that the compression post rests on in the 36.2 have any issue? Malcolm, There was no indication that the bottom of the compression post was sinking into the floor support. If it ever does, I'll have another fun project! Mike Good news, glad you don't have that headache |
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Post by geitz on Dec 5, 2017 0:42:18 GMT
I wonder , would it be possible to fill the complete hole with thickened epoxy , you know glass balloons or aerosil as filler ? Would love to see how you finish up the visable surface of this repair Mike , will you be using gelcoat ? Regards I think you could. I opted for a more "bomb-proof" repair. Also, that much volume of epoxy can get pretty hot when it starts to kick and could degrade itself from the heat. You'd still need to laminate the top, I think, before finishing off with paint or gelcoat. One could even re-core with wood. If all the bolt holes and deck glands (mast wiring) are properly bedded, you'll never have another problem. I will be using gelcoat, brushing it on, sand, wet sand, polish, etc. Our weather is about to turn more wintery in the next couple of day, and that might postpone the finish work. When I can, I'll post more pics. I'm also going to move the compression post to center it under the step. I have no idea why Jeanneau installed the top of the post ~1" to starboard at the top, but it bugs me so I feel compelled to straighten it out. Mike Mike |
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Post by tedp on Dec 5, 2017 9:52:16 GMT
I just discovered this thread. Hats off, a very neat repair. I came from plywood boats so I can identify with this kind of work. Frankly, I'm astonished at seeing a load-bearing structure being so vulnerable. I'll keep this in mind if my own mast step begins to drop - I have a 2004 boat which I suppose has the same kind of cabin top, none of the 'i' indicating a new deck moulding design.
I wonder what caused the water ingress. It may have come from the cable glands, or from a fracture in the outer GRP skin. Any ideas? At the moment the mast is off my boat as I hauled her out a few weeks ago, so I'll inspect the area around the step, inside and out.
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Post by geitz on Dec 7, 2017 2:41:11 GMT
<snip> I wonder what caused the water ingress. It may have come from the cable glands, or from a fracture in the outer GRP skin. Any ideas? At the moment the mast is off my boat as I hauled her out a few weeks ago, so I'll inspect the area around the step, inside and out. There weren't any fractures in the surface. I think the water came in from one, or more, of the cable glands. It's hard to know for sure, but proper bedding is paramount, as it turns out? Anyway, I'll be back to work on it this weekend, despite the cold. I will be be sanding the West System fairing compound to prepare it for gel-coat. |
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