Windlass problems

[sorcerer]

Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement Commande Guindeau controller for the windlass on my Sunfast 37?
It is a scheider 
LOT. 808265
Jeanneau 956148
ref; 36.09307.00
The windlass works one way and when I swap terminals 4 and 6 it works the other way so I know the unit is faulty.
Both fuses are good, I suspect the orange processor is blown.
Thanks

[so36idavid]

I don't know anything about your windlass but these systems are pretty generic. It's either the remote control or the solenoid. You should be able to debug where the problem lies with a voltmeter. It sounds like you think it's the remote control. Whatever the problem is you should be able to get a generic replacement. These are just switches, there's nothing magical in them. 

While you're in there I recommend installing a wireless option. There are instructions on how to do this on the projects page. I followed them and absolutely love the wireless. I can manage the anchor from the helm without having to wander back and forth. 

[hoppy]

Yeah, the controllers are mostly generic and same with the connectors and even the solenoids. You just need to make sure you get one with the right number of pins. You'll most likely be able to pick up a replacement controller at any chandlery.

Also for most (probably all) it does not matter if you use a controller with 3 or 4 pins. A 3 pin controller will have 2 buttons and the 3 wires will be up & down and a shared power wire. Controllers with 4 cables will have the up down, button and a power button which must be pressed to control the windlass. The extra wire is a neutral for the power button and perhaps a LED light.

I had both a 3 & 4 pin plug controllers plus a wireless controller all connected at the same time.

If you do a lot of cruising and anchoring, I recommend carrying a spare solenoid. Once mine died jamming in the up position. Luckily I was only a few hours from a chandlery I knew would carry a replacement so I sailed straight there and anchored just off their beach.

[so36idavid]

FYI the solenoids are pretty simple. Every few years it's worth opening them up and inspecting the contacts. Usually there's some carbon buildup and pitting due to arcing when making and breaking the circuit. Usually they fail because of poor contact. I recently opened mine up and sanded the contacts to ensure a clean connection. As with all boat projects, doing it is the easy bit, getting the part in and out is the adventure! Although in fairness, it's not too bad on the 36i, all you need is a PhD in yoga and a few sessions with the chiropractor afterwards . 

David

[sorcerer]

Hi,
All, It snot the solenoid or the remote controller, its the control box before the solenoid with the fuses in it, cream open box with some solid state transistors and spade terminal connections.
Ive stripped and serviced the solenoid, all fine, |Ive inspected the remote , all fine , fault is defo, the electronic contoller driving the solenoid, problem is , its a Jeanneau part and I cant source one, 

[hoppy]

If you look at any windlass wiring diagram, you will never see the controller box as part of the diagram. I have one on my boat and I'm not sure what it is there for. I know that on some boats you cannot run the windlass unless the engine is running. On mine you can, but I assume that the controller is what prevents the windlass from being used but mine is bypassed now or at at least that's what I guess it used to do.





Just bypass the controller, even with just temporary wiring, connecting the wires from the switch to the solenoid.

[Ray Yager]

Tapestry (SO 45DS) had very similar issue with a Quick 1500 windlass.  The hand controller was shot, but also the socket in the anchor locker.  Be sure to replace both.  We now keep the hand controller in the cockpit locker while sailing. 

[faisdodo]

Does anyone know if this relay unit is necessary?  Mine fried when I plugged in to a hot ground.  The voltage reading on the output is only 6v which is not enough to kick on the solenoids.  I am having trouble finding a replacement or any documentation on it.  The windlass works when I bypass the relay unit.  I just don't want to cause damage elsewhere if it is needed.  Thanks

[Don Reaves]

I would seriously doubt that they would have gone to the expense of adding this unit if it were not necessary. I believe the purpose of the relay is to handle larger currents than can be handled by the switch you are using. Bypassing the relay would make the switch carry the load. This will work for a while until the arcing caused by turning on and off the high currents damages the switch.

[jboatman]

Just got my (new to me 2002 SO37) boat launched (Wisconsin). Previous owner claims he had never used the windlass. I took it apart over the Winter and  cleaned, new gypsy for imperial chain, etc. Purchased a 2-button control and assumed it would just wire in. Not so simple. As I was digging into it I found the same Scheiber device in my boat: Jeanneau 956148
, ref; 36.09307.00. I did a bit of digging and want to share. The previous post picture is exactly the same as mine.

It does appear to be some form of "slave relay." Referencing previous picture, power goes in at lower right pin 14 in my case (assuming breaker is on). The other 2 pins/wires are labeled ALT (13) and APC(12). I assume ALT is from the alternator to make sure your engine is running. Not sure what APC is. I believe those signals get automagically combined and go through a 10 amp fuse to, in my case, pin 8. That wire then goes up to the handheld buttons. Th return wires from the buttons (switched fused 12V) go back to the little Scheiber box (4, 6). I believe they drive the two little red relays potted into the box. There is another fuse that I believe protects the output of those little relays. And those little relay outputs are what actually drive the contactor (big motor relay) for the winch. So the previous post that indicated the contactor (big winch relay) might be too much current for the hand/foot controller is most likely correct. The Scheiber box simply makes sure the engine is running (ALT) and something with APC, and then "slaves" the control buttons to the winch contactor via its 2 little red relays.

In my case it was the circuit that combines 12V, ALT, APC that appears to have failed. All 3 had 12V, but nothing on pin 8. I could not find any information, supply, etc. I did not want to ruin the contacts in my new hand-held control, so I did not just bypass everything. What worked for me was to disconnect the battery input (14) and the battery output (8) and then jump the 2 together using the 10A fuse. The blade terminals all fit. Nice. Then when I tested it, the little slave relays did their thing like they were supposed to.

I may have to replace the whole thing later, but at least I now know what it was doing. I'd like to know what circuitry they use to combine 12V, ALT and APC. And what APC actually is. But when the time comes it will be a reasonably easy thing to do. And I won't get fancy, I know the engine needs to be running so I don't drain the batteries.

I hope this helps.

[Charlie-Bravo]

Hi, infuriating when these little things go wrong, you might get some luck at CPC Farnell as they sell schrack relays, they also have tech help who when given all the little numbers and perhaps a good photo,off the offending relay could suggest a suitable replacement if the original bit is no longer available, then it is just a steady hand with a small soldering iron and it should be back working again.

Good luck relay hunting
CB

[mickmeck]

Jul 13, 2017 14:35:54 GMT sorcerer said:

Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement Commande Guindeau controller for the windlass on my Sunfast 37?
It is a scheider 
LOT. 808265
Jeanneau 956148
ref; 36.09307.00
The windlass works one way and when I swap terminals 4 and 6 it works the other way so I know the unit is faulty.
Both fuses are good, I suspect the orange processor is blown.
Thanks    

Did you ever find the part? I have a similar problem. Reading this thread it appears that no one ever actually answered your question. I currently use the box for the engine control aspect but the directional tabs create issues. I have connected the wires directly to the black box controller and am wondering if that is ok. 

[grappa]

I have a 2002 SO 37, 
after much trouble checking on my solenoid and the control box, it turned out to be the hand held remote that was my culprit.  Bainbridge is the US distributer. The local NJ shop i cant recall the full name Captain something.

[jaminb]

This is what I replaced when my windlass started playing up.

www.marinesuperstore.com/deck-hardware/winches/lofrans-12v-control-box