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Post by ianpowolny on Sept 9, 2016 13:04:36 GMT
I'm not sure why but our auto bilge pump keeps tripping in. This started a few days ago and we have wiped all the bilge spaces dry. We now only have 2 cm of water in the sump but the pump still comes on intermittently.
Any ideas why this might be happening. We do have highish winds that are rocking the boat while in a marina.
Ian
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Post by jeroen on Sept 9, 2016 13:22:46 GMT
It could be water got trapped between the hull and inner skin. For a 45 DS that could be at the interior of the engine mount, just remove the round inspection plastic at the front. There is also a space/volume at the foot of the step mast, below the inner skin, if you tap on it, it should sound hollow, if not, water got trapped below.
I had a leaking seal in the front head, each shower resulted in small quantities of water between the hull and inner skin. |
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Post by neil44i on Sept 9, 2016 18:17:26 GMT
If you have the tiny sump with the remote Whale diaphragm pump you might have water siphoning back from the pickup hose, especially if the pump is dirty and not fully acting as a check valve. Mine was going off every 30min at one point and there was no visible water getting into the sump (surrounded it with tissues to verify). Ice box drains were corked as well. Dried out the sump and it stayed dry. If it's tripping chances are by the time you get there the extra water is trapped in the intake hose and then slowly refilling when you walk away. I had a spare matching pump which I installed and the problem is gone. Have not gotten around to cleaning/rebuilding the old one.
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Post by Tafika II on Sept 9, 2016 19:03:20 GMT
Ian, I had the same problem. Finally just changed out the float switch and all is well. May be a leak in the float. Cheap & easy change. FYI...keep a spare as they do fail.
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Post by vasko on Sept 10, 2016 0:00:37 GMT
Change the bilge float switch... better get the electronic version - usually is more reliable and last longer...
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Post by ianpowolny on Sept 10, 2016 9:01:11 GMT
I've identified the problem as back flow from the suction side of the pump. I clear the sump with a Pelar pump.
Now I need to find the spare parts to carry out the maintenance. It's a Johnson Viking Power 16.
Anyone know who stocks the parts pack 10-13350-01/03 in Europe?
Ian
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Post by sailbleu on Sept 10, 2016 11:09:39 GMT
Common problem.
Even with spare parts , it will be back soon enough.
Place a cheap brass inline checkvalve in the circuit Ian , no need for expensive parts or pump replacement .
Mine is just behind the pump , been there for years now.
Regards
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Post by ianpowolny on Sept 10, 2016 15:23:15 GMT
Common problem. Even with spare parts , it will be back soon enough. Place a cheap brass inline checkvalve in the circuit Ian , no need for expensive parts or pump replacement . Mine is just behind the pump , been there for years now. Regards On the suction side and how far from the pump? As to the non-return valve what am I looking for? Ian |
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Post by Don Reaves on Sept 10, 2016 18:43:04 GMT
There is an argument I once read in Practical Sailor that putting a check valve in your bilge hose is a bad thing. The idea is that a check valve introduces resistance and reduces the flow of water out of the bilge. Since the bilge pump is there for your safety, doing anything that makes it less effective is bad. Their solution to your problem would be to raise the float switch high enough that it won't react to the amount of water that spills back when the pump shuts off. I personally don't have an opinion on this issue, so please don't kill the messenger.  But I thought this contrary point of view should at least be stated. Don |
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Post by sailbleu on Sept 11, 2016 4:57:36 GMT
Ian , It's not in the discharge part I've installed mine but indeed in the suction, about 15 cm away from the pump . If you decide to do the same make sure you have it big enough . It's been there for 6 or 7 years now , never had an issue with it. And even in the past after winters on the hard , 7 - 8 months it didn't get stuck. But I can tell you my perpetuum mobile , you know the perpetual motion of the pump on off on off , has stopped. The reason for that spot to install the valve was because I had the space for it and I've used a vertical checkvalve. That means it has to be placed straight up so gravity will always force it to close together with the minimal pressure you get from the water column above. I believe there's also a spring inside but wouldn't rely on that to stay there , I suppose it will be gone in no time . That's why I chose a vertical , gravity as a back up. You also have horizontal ones , you could install that next (after !!) the filter. But spring loaded could cause problems . My bilge pump filter is in the bilge you see.  Just an example , this is an ebay page. The top right hand side photo is a non- spring loaded horizontal check valve . Has to be installed correctly as you probably know. Don makes a good point , what can I say ? Except I never had probs with mine . And what about the filter , how many boaters forget to clean that on a regular basis ? Very important maintenance that filter , I see that every time I clean mine. Regards |
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Post by vasko on Sept 11, 2016 8:49:07 GMT
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Post by rxc on Sept 11, 2016 18:46:31 GMT
I agree with Don's appraisal, but I do have a factory-installed strainer on the suction to my small bilge pump, to prevent "stuff" from getting into the internal check valves in the pump, where they can be trapped and allow water to flow back into the sump. Only way to fix this is to take the pump apart and clean it out. I clean out the strainer every few months, and it is amazing all the stuff that washes into the bilge. But then, I do carry two long-hared cats on board, and they do generate a bit of "stuff"... Cat fur makes a particularly good fine filter mat inside the mesh strainer.
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Post by Trevor on Sept 12, 2016 9:56:16 GMT
The timing of this post is amazing for me as yesterday I noticed that my bilge pump was not working. Because i couldn't purchase the rubber internal valves, I decided to purchase the whole Viking power 16 pump as it was available at the local chandlery. I left them with Australian $429 which I though was pretty steep but I wanted it fixed fast. I installed it and it all goes well now. When checking the box of bits yesterday after the installation I found a small non return valve that should have been installed in the output connector. The old valve would still have been in the outlet connector so I should pull it out and replace it with the new one. It looks like a small version of a toilet Joker Valve. I am guessing that if that were to be faulty or forced open by debris, the float switch may activate, cause the pump to activate until the float switch removes power, then the water in the inlet pipe would flow back into the bilge and repeat the cycle. I have attached a couple pf pictures to show the type of valve that comes with the pump. See the location of this Joker Valve in the bottom right corner of this picture.  And now the actual Joker valve that comes with the new pump.  Trevor |
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Post by mred25234 on Jun 10, 2018 17:21:17 GMT
Ian, I had the same problem. Finally just changed out the float switch and all is well. May be a leak in the float. Cheap & easy change. FYI...keep a spare as they do fail. Does anyone know the make and model of the float switch, JN 409? |
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But I thought this contrary point of view should at least be stated.
