speedbird1
Junior Member
Posts: 15
Jeanneau Model: SO 45 DS
Yacht Name: Cloud 9
Home Port: Sant Carles de la Rapita
Country: Spain
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Post by speedbird1 on Apr 1, 2015 7:38:42 GMT
Having recently had the stern gland replaced on my 45DS I have been keeping a close check on it.
I have found that it gets warm during constant use of the engine. ( we are in the med so sea water is not cold and frequently there is little or no wind. ) The shaft near the engine is quite cool whereas the shaft near the gland gets quite warm. The gland therefore also gets warm. Frequent "burping" removes the warm water from the gland but it soon heats up again. I cannot describe the water as "hot" but it's not far off. Gland is kept well greased.
Is this normal? Am I being paranoid? Having to Burp the gland every hour to remove the warm water is quite tiresome.
Peter.
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Post by Trevor on Apr 1, 2015 12:48:58 GMT
Hello speedbird1,
i am not sure if my stern gland runs hot but the shaft is sitting in seawater and is therefor a very effective heatsink. I can imagine the heat generated by the friction of the gland is stable by virtue of the heat constantly moving down the shaft to the seawater and dissipating.
I suggest forgetting about burping the gland every hour and simply keep an eye on things until you gain confidence that all is normal.
Regards,
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Post by alex1949 on Apr 1, 2015 14:31:13 GMT
Are you talking of a Volvo gland ?
If positive than the answer is that there is an air pocket in-between the sea water and the gland material and sea water that supposed to cool down the friction result can not do it.
What should you do than, squeeze the gland in the inside using your hand till water comes into the boat let it drip at least two glass and than loose it and allow it to reseat and check that no water come in again. If no damage to the gland yet,than you'r ok but that heat shortened the new gland life a bit.
BTW this gland supposed to be greased by a special Volvo grease that comes with.
Good luck
Alex
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speedbird1
Junior Member
Posts: 15
Jeanneau Model: SO 45 DS
Yacht Name: Cloud 9
Home Port: Sant Carles de la Rapita
Country: Spain
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Post by speedbird1 on Apr 1, 2015 18:02:10 GMT
Thanks for the advice to you both. Maybe I am a bit paranoid. I will be taking one of those point and shoot thermometers out with me on the next trip and record the results every time I write up the hourly log so I have an ongoing record.
We we have a lift out in a couple of weeks time to antifoul and polish. I'll ensure the gland is well greased, and yes I do have the Volvo grease, and well burped before setting off on the trip.
Thanks again
Peter
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Post by alex1949 on Apr 1, 2015 20:55:45 GMT
Peter, My advice regarding squeezing the rubber gland is a must to do each time the boat is to be taken back afloat not only after installment. The air pocket may be there each time. Take care to do it. alex
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Post by sailbleu on Apr 3, 2015 7:40:22 GMT
My advice is to do it on a regular basis , even when you sail . I'm convinced it will extend the lifespan of the seal , for one reason or the other air will accumulate in the seal after awhile . Sometimes it ' s really hot and that points to friction . An occational burb will do wonders.
Regards
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Post by Mistroma on Apr 5, 2015 23:26:20 GMT
I tend to check the seal for leaks on a regular basis if motoring a long distance. I have noticed it getting warm a couple of times and been able to expel some air and water. It then runs cool and seems fine for days or weeks.
I always apply 1cc grease via a straw prior to launch each year and then burp the seal thoroughly when in the water. So it does seem to be possible for air to keep collecting inside the seal during the season. I'm not certain how the air is being driven into the seal but it does seem to be happening.
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Post by no3l on Apr 28, 2015 21:43:14 GMT
Hi Mistroma,
I'm "new" to stern glands and their maintenance, so forgive me if this is a stupid question.
You mention in your post that you apply grease via a straw, how do you do this, I cannot see any fitting for this. Where/how do you apply the grease?
Thanks in advance. Noel
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Post by sitara on Apr 28, 2015 21:50:26 GMT
Hi Noel, Its very simple but can be a bit messy. I jab the straw in a pot of grease to get some inside the straw. Then I squeeze the stern gland as you do for burping it and push the straw in the gap formed between the shaft and the Volvo seal and press the grease in. I do it whenever the boat comes out of the water. You need to get about 1 cubic centimetre of grease in.
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Post by Mistroma on Apr 28, 2015 22:20:24 GMT
My method is pretty similar. I use a fairly wide straw and squeeze 3-5cm of grease into one end. I have the correct length written down somewhere, simply used straw diameter to calculate length of straw equivalent to 1cc volume. I then use pliers to flatten the end of the straw and that makes it thin enough to slide into the seal. Just lay it on top of the shaft an gently wiggle the end of the straw approx. 2cm into the Volvo seal. Slide a flat object along the straw towards the seal and grease will be squeezed inside. Keep pressing on the straw whilst pulling it back out to squeeze in last bit of the grease.
I think 2cm is about the correct distance as the 2 internal seals were about 1.5cm and 2.5cm from the end of the fitting I examined.
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Post by no3l on Apr 28, 2015 23:05:52 GMT
HI All, Thanks for the prompt responses, I can see the method now. In the meantime I found a Volvo assembly instruction which I have attached. Regards Noel Volvo instructions.doc (842.5 KB)
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Post by sailbleu on Apr 30, 2015 6:17:20 GMT
Forgot to mention that I use a syringe , you can fill it up In the back and inject the grease . Not using the needle though Best to take a larger size and make sure the grease is slightly warm that helps. Piece of cake that way .
Regards
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Post by no3l on Apr 30, 2015 15:48:03 GMT
Hi All,
I used the straw method and it worked perfectly. I suspect there is some wear which made it easier to insert the straw. I'll be replacing the gland at the next lift out.
As far as I can tell the correct part is :
• 25MM 828254 for shaft diameter of 25mm and a sleeve diameter of 42mm
This is from the Yacht Boat Parts website (http://www.yachtboatparts.com/index.asp)
Can anyone confirm?
Regards Noel
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Post by ianpowolny on Apr 30, 2015 17:29:05 GMT
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Post by no3l on May 22, 2015 9:35:26 GMT
Hi All,
Thanks for the information Ian.
I've ordered a new stern gland, can anyone advise what I can expect when I remove the four bolts at the engine/shaft coupling? How is the flange attached to the shaft? Are any special tools needed?
Regards Noel
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Post by ianpowolny on May 22, 2015 13:10:27 GMT
Noel,
The prop shaft flange on Affinity was attached by a single nut directly on to the shaft with a key and key way. The only tool need was a socket, shaft and bar. I used a mechanic as this was the first time I've seen this done. The mechanic set up the socket on board and then got off the boat to use the prop to turn shaft using the prop blades for leverage and no need to mark the shaft. Seemed to be easily done.
Ian
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Post by no3l on May 22, 2015 17:24:39 GMT
Perfect, thanks Ian. Noel
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Post by sailbleu on May 23, 2015 7:03:12 GMT
Ian , Noel ,
There is infact no reason to haul the boat in order to replace the gland. A simple rag or plastic bag around the shaft where it goes in the hull will keep most water out and allow you to change gland in a cheap way. Once the shaft flange has been separated from the gearbox the shaft nut can be released by putting some bolts ( one is enough already) through the holes of the shaft flange , Fix them with a nut and use both bolt and shaft as a leverage to keep the shaft from turning ( with the help of a wrench or something) while unscrewing the shaft nut. Getting the flange off can be done with a simple tool as shown in one of the hint&tips topics. A pulley is somewhat difficult considering the narrow space.
Changing the gland is done in a minute.
Ps: don't forget to remove the rag
Regards
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Post by ianpowolny on May 23, 2015 8:47:29 GMT
Not sure I have the bottle to do it that way We were on the hard over winter. Ian
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Post by no3l on May 25, 2015 10:43:27 GMT
Agreed, as a devout coward I find it very hard to open a hole under the waterline. I'll do the cutlass bearing and stern gland at the next liftout. Noel
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Post by Damir on May 25, 2015 12:10:19 GMT
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Post by davideso37 on May 28, 2015 10:04:28 GMT
Damir,
A good link. The Volvo seal on my SO37 is still working after 9 years. They recommend you change them after 5 years.
For my next yacht I am fitting a Radice seal as described in your link. As well as having a vent and a grease application nipple it can be flushed with water from the engine cooling system via the vent line to give a positive flow and remove any concerns about heating. If heating is not a problem then the vent is just secured above the water line.
Regards
David
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