Base Plate wear in Quick 1000W anchor windlass

[Xantia]

Hi everyone,

Has anyone else had a problem with the aluminium baseplate on their Quick windlass wearing very quickly (pun intended)? Our three year old SO42 DS has a Quick Aleph windlass which has an aluminium baseplate; the Antares winch is the same with a chrome baseplate. The 10mm chain has worn a groove 10 mm deep where the chain slides over the baseplate and into the locker, right through the baseplate on the front edge and is chewing through the bulkhead into the boat. Now we use our anchor a lot but that is extremely Quick, three years. A new baseplate costs $700 so we are trying to get it welded. I'll add a roller to carry the chain over the lip, but if I have to replace the winch I'll get a proper stainless one. They are cheaper here than Quick winches anyway.

By the way, if anyone has a dead winch with a reasonable baseplate, I'd be interested in a deal. Aleph or Antares no matter.

Cheers

Ian

[ForGrinsToo]

Hi Ian,
Our 36i has what appears to be sacrificial Starboard (polyethylene, I think) where the anchor shank meets the deck and where the rode falls off the winch and into the chain locker. You can buy a lot of PE for $700.

Geoff

[Xantia]

You are right Geoff. I have bought a trailer roller for $20 and I'll mount it in front of the winch to reduce the weight on the baseplate and drop the chain into the locker. The wear plate is a good alternative and if wear continues, I'll add one as well as the roller.

I managed to get the baseplate welded up. It took half an hour to dismantle the base plate and the welder first of all put a fire extinguisher on the floor next to the job, in case it all ended in flames. But it went OK and although it looks a bit rough a coat of paint will solve that.

However, a warning to all Quick winch owners. The bearing tube inside the base plate had water in it, and of course the bearing was rusty and rough. So the seals failed within three years and there was no way of telling from the outside. Perhaps you could remove the chain and spin the motor but the first time you are likely to notice is when the bearing collapses or wears and the capstan rubs on the baseplate. I am considering filling the bearing tube with marine gearbox oil to get some corrosion protection. Then if the seals die it'll leak into the forward cabin as a very messy warning system.

When it fails next time it's off to the dump. I'll buy a nice Muir stainless steel windlass instead.

I have managed to get a new bearing and seals, which turn out to be pretty standard, from the local bearing supply shop for less than $20 and I just want to get out on the water so today it's reassembly day.

Cheers

Ian