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Post by hoppy on Feb 11, 2015 16:34:31 GMT
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Post by On y va on Feb 11, 2015 16:58:51 GMT
Aaaah, now I get it! ok, this is a standard Wichard eye-bolt 2 bolts instead of one. On the bottom is a steel pressure plate. The good thing about this position, is that the pressure upwards is not on the stringers, but on the bulkhead behind the anchor locker, which is laminated onto the hull. The stringers are not made for pressure up or downwards, but side impact pressure. But, the whole thing together, makes a very strong construction. From there to top of the mast are basically laid out at approx 3,5 tonnes breakload. Should be enough....
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Post by hoppy on Feb 11, 2015 17:49:06 GMT
Thanks....
It's still a bit hard to get my head around it, so I really need to get down to Greece again and get my head in there and look to see what's forward.
Makes sense that we don't want the stringers supporting all of the weight
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Post by zofiasailing on Feb 11, 2015 19:56:37 GMT
Hi zofiasailing, Thanks for the pic of the stay arrangement, do you have a pic of the inside of the deck, the steel plate that you have added ? Some other posts have suggested that the stay should be carried on inside the boat to a firm anchoring point if it is terminated around the windlass - I'd be interested to know if you have you noticed any deck flexing or other affects of your set up, Thanks, Steve Manaia Sorry, I don't think we have a photo and would have to remove the cabin lining to get a look. Visitors on board for next couple of days will delay this possibility. We haven't observed any flexing of the deck and there is no crazing of the gelcoat to suggest same. We did have a professional rigger look this project over and do it. He confirmed that the boat construction and reinforcing in this area was suitable. As mentioned earlier we think that our boat was already set up for this arrangement possibility due to existence of a pad eye on deck from new and the deck combing shaped around it. The mast also had the opening for an inner forestay so there was no need to add a tang fitting. We exchanged the pad eye for a bigger double one to accommodate the Witchard stay tensioner hook. The steel plate that already reinforced that pad eye was replaced with another that was twice the size and thickness. The cabin below has not been in any way compromised. Interested to note On Ya Va's comment that the reinforcing in the fiberglass was for lateral loads. The area surrounding the anchor locker is certainly very solid. Anyway, we did take professional advice before we started and so far so good! Will try to get you a photo of the underside once visitors gone. SV Zofia
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Post by On y va on Feb 11, 2015 21:53:39 GMT
Zofiasailing: these stringers are to retain the "belly" shape of the boat, so for sideways impacts of waves and wave slamming. If you would pull anything more than a few hundred kilos upwards on them, they just rip open. But they can withstand hull impact mainly because of there bowed shape. hoppy: remove the last board under your bed in the fwd cabin (if that is your bed) towards the bow and lay with your back on the floor/bottom and move your head under the anchor locker. You will see how "loose" the anchor locker actually is, but this bulkead, which is the nice looking end of your bed, is actually laminated in. The stringers run a few cm passed this bulkhead. This makes a very strong construction in total. So, I have used the stringers as a fixation point, but the pressure is onto this bulkhead. hoppy: the pictures you show in one of your posts of Galana River II are about the worst example of how to do this (I am sorry, but this is my professional opinion). For starters, the bottom tang is laminated onto the bottom. So a bit of epoxy and some layers of glass are holding this down....Unless it has a backing plate on the outside of the hull, it is useless after say 500kg of force. And if there is a backing plate, it is under water. And who wants a backing plate under water? Secondly, the running backstays are attached to the toe rail, which is basically only glued and screwed onto the deck. Ok, it is pretty strong, but these toe rails are not made for things pulling on them. I am sure it will hold in most situations. And if you do want to use the toe rails, at replace the screws in that area for bolts with washers and nuts. Anyway, as always. Each to there own.
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Post by hoppy on Feb 12, 2015 0:02:17 GMT
I was just pointing out that I found it. I did not notice/think about the running backstay setup, but the baby stay support is defiantly not for me IF I had Sailbleu's metal work skills/tools/knowledge but my SO40 still, I would investigate the possibility of doing what he did for his boat, but made in two parts and bolted together in place inside the anchor locker. However I don't and quite frankly I would give up trying to make a wooden mockup. So I pretty much accept I will do like you did.
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Post by hoppy on Mar 4, 2015 16:20:48 GMT
I was talking to a guy from North Sails about the A2 symmetric and in passing mentioned the storm sail. He was very positive about it working on a Code 0 roller with a 2:1 halyard, so he will send a quote. As I now realise I can share the Selden CX25 roller and halyard swivel between sails, the storm on a roller idea will be less financially painful.
Will still need to make a decision on where I would mount the sail on the deck. However aft of the windlass seems much more sensible as I can have the sail mounted and ready when the weather looks questionable.
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