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Post by Tommy T on Dec 30, 2013 20:42:44 GMT
Aloha! I am a new owner of a 2004 Sun odyssey 43DS. My owners manual says there is supposed to be a switch for the stove (2 burner + oven) under the stove where the refrig motors are located. I do not have such a switch. I do have a switch on the electrical panel for the propane switch that is in in the propane locker. I can hear it click when I switch it on/off. But, I do not get any propane to the stove. Any ideas? Has anyone encountered this before? By the way, the switch in the propane locker seems to heat up when I leave the switch on. Appreciate any help.
Tommy |
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Post by Don Reaves on Dec 30, 2013 21:48:48 GMT
The solenoid valve in the propane locker will definitely heat up while it is energized. It shouldn't be too hot to touch, though. I always turn mine off after I'm done using the stove.
I assume you've opened the valve on the tank to allow the propane into the system. When it's in the closed position, the gauge in the locker will probably indicate no pressure, at least after a long time being turned off.
As to the location of the switch, I can't comment, since I have a SO35. I wonder whether there's a cutoff valve under the stove. An owner of a 43DS should know.
Don
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Post by rxc on Dec 31, 2013 2:28:56 GMT
The valve in the photo is for a French-delivered boat (and maybe also for deliveries elsewhere in the EU). They have different regulations there, so they have different valve requirements. US boats have an electric solenoid in the box.
One problem that I had with the solenoid when I first bought the boat was that the rubber tip on the solenoid had swollen, and the gas started to flow fine, but eventually stopped. I think I read something about this being caused by a bad batch of rubber, or contamination of the LPG by a hydrocarbon that was not supposed to be in the mix, or maybe it was even the heat of the solenoid caused the rubber to expand. I chucked the solenoid in a drill and ran it over some sandpaper to reduce it just a bit, and haven't had any problems since. It is normal for the solenoid to get warm.
One other issue arose when I changed from a POL connector to a quick-connect with the ACME threads (large, square on the outside of the gas bottle nipple). These fittings have an excess-flow check valve in them that is supposed to close if the hose ruptures. However, if you have a long hose that takes a lot of gas to pressurize, the initial gas flow when you open the valve will trip it and you will see no gas. The trick is to open the valve on the bottle VERY slowly. Since we turn off the solenoid when we are not cooking we found that this could also trip the excess flow check valve. The only solutions are (1) just wait 5-10 minutes for the pressure in the line to equalize and the excess flow valve will reset, (2) go out to the box and shut the valve on the bottle, uncouple the QC fitting, reconnect, and slowly open the valve with the solenoid open (the solution in the morning when we are not willing to wait<g>), or (3) go back to an old POL valve with no excess flor check valve (my final solution). I think you can find QC fittings with larger allowed flow rates, but I had already spent $20 for the pigtail that caused the problems, and didn't really need to spend more money experimenting.
Do you get any gas flow at all? What does the gas gage say?
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Post by Tommy T on Jan 15, 2014 3:37:55 GMT
Thank you very much for the info. I was able to remove the regulator and re-install it. I checked the hose and low and behold the flow started, so now it it fixed.
I appreciate you assistance.
Tommy
My Sunshine
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