Remove rudder stops on SO 32

[rattler]

Hello All,

Any advise/experience on removing the rudder limit stops on a SO 32 (2003) tiller steered in order to make it easier to get into a very tight marina berth. I'm sure someone has come across before?

Thanks in advance.

[tedp]

I once replaced the stainless steel pin from the bronze block on the rudder post. When going astern, I let the tiller slip from my hand which made it crash hard over. The pin was bent and had to be replaced.

The end stops are meant to prevent the rudder from touching the hull. They aren't there for nothing, so I wouldn't remove them.

Getting in and out of a tight berth is best accomplished by using the wheel effect when you put the engine astern and by using a spring line where possible.

[rattler]

Yes the rudder has quite a lot of force when going astern at speed so I'm not suprised that it may whip out of your hands. I haven't seen under the boat as my boat is in the water so I wanted to check how much clearance there is between the hull and the rudder when the tiller is over to the stops. I was hoping that someone may also have found this to be a problem.

Austin

[ianqv]

Hi Rattler,
Perhaps a more robust tweak would be to move the bump / limit stops.
On the S/O 37 this can easily be done. In fact I've even seen on some boats, shims / spacers behind the stops so that the port / starboard rudder angle is the same. If shims are fitted, perhaps try removing them.

Take some pics of your rudder system, I'm sure someone here will come up with a good solution.

Regards

Ian

[rattler]

Hi Ian,

It is not so easy to change the stops as it is an alloy casting that the steel pin comes up against. What I was thinking of doing was to remove the pin but I was unsure of what clearance there is between the rudder blade and the hull.  I am lifting out in the next few weeks and I will note the limit of the rudder movement before it meets the hull and see how much extra angle I can get on it then arrange the stops to suite.

Regards,

Austin

[sitara]

The rudder stop pins on my SO29.2 were there for a purpose. The previous owner had (accidentally) bent part of the system allowing more travel - the result was that the quadrant was then digging into the transom. The original event had left some hairline cracks in the gel coat.

[rattler]

Hi There,

Sounds like your boat has wheel steering but I have a tiller and the only thing that I can see that might be a problem is the rudder blade hitting the hull. I am going to check how far I can safely go before this happens then mark that position and not move the tiller beyond this mark. I think this should be safe and can't see any possible problems with it.

Austin

[sitara]

Hi Austin,
Yes it was wheel steered, Opps I should have read your first post again. I don't think the rudder will interfere with the hull even if you can get the tiller to 90 degrees as the hull curves upwards from the rudder post. Past 90 degrees the gap will start to close - but you would not want to go there anyway. As mentioned in an earlier post using prop walk can be and advantage when going astern - if the turn is the right way for you boat. A RH propeller will make the stern move to port when in reverse.
Cheers
Rob

[rattler]

Hi Rob,

The prop walk is the wrong way for my berth but I have bought a Flexofold prop and hope this may reduce the prop walk but I didn't buy it to reduce prop walk just looking for a nice side effect.

I think you are correct about the clearance between the hull and the rudder blade so I will go ahead when I lift the boat for usual maintenance in a few weeks.

Austin

[tedp]

As I said before I wonder what the use is of removing the rudder stop. The standard maximum angle on your rudder is in the region of 40 degrees. This is quite enough to manoeuvre your boat even in a tight spot. I know because the alley between berths in my marina is tight. The SO32 is perfectly manoeuvrable - it will turn almost within its own length. Increasing the rudder angle will not decrease the turning angle of the boat - it will only hamper the action of the prop and sooner or later damage your rudder and/or your hull.

Prop walk is your friend, not your enemy, even if it's the wrong way for your berth. If you want to benefit from it, simply reverse towards your berth and turn the other way.

The best way to turn a boat in a tight spot is to alternately use forward and reverse gear, without too much power and taking your time. If that doesn't suffice or if you have too much wind against you, use a spring line as shown in the image below, a method which I even used today, reversing my boat, solo, into the berth with a force 6 blowing against the turn. You will have perfect control by playing the engine control lever. There was no one on the jetty to take a line, and if you practice this a few times you won't need help.


www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/569_14_05_12_10_04_05.jpeg

[rattler]

Hi Tedp,

On my marina berth the finger doesn't extend to the length of my boat it stops short by about two metres so the boat alongside would prevent me from using your method. When I turn to go into my berth I am broadside to the wind mostly and the bow will be blown off the finger. Coming in at speed helps also.

I think it will be fine when I move the stops it will just be easier.

Austin

[tedp]

I also have a lot of crosswind, or wind trying to blow the bows away. In my case there is an even shorter finger - only about 2m - and the boats alongside have fenders out, so have I. I have found that reversing into the berth is much easier and being stern to is an advantage as well. You don't have to climb aboard, you just step into the cockpit.

I often sail solo, so I have experimented and found methods to come into my berth without much risk. Even if sailing in company I would never like to come in at speed. I have seen boats taking huge chunks out of the jetty that way (or the other way round!).

I lay the boat against the posts as shown in the diagram, put out a spring line and slowly turn it in with a minimum of fuss.

It's just a different way of thinking, I guess. Today for instance I talked to someone who tried getting his boat alongside several times and had great difficulty as he was blown off every time. He didn't know the trick of reversing against the wind to put a stern line ashore and using the engine to pull the boat alongside. Using lines in a difficult spot works wonders. I look at river barge skippers who are true masters in the art.

[rattler]

Hi again Tedp.

We don't have any posts to use just the pontoon finger or the other in the berth which of course we can’t use. I agree coming in at speed is not good that's why I am looking for other methods and moving the rudder stops was something I thought I'd try. My boat is lifting out next week so I will keep you posted.

Thank you for your helpful comments.

Austin

[Deleted]

I agree with Ted, don't remove the stops just practise.

[tedp]

If you have no posts to put a spring line on I agree it is more difficult. As a last resort you could try and reverse the Mediterranean way. Drop anchor a short way in the alley and use that to keep the bows straight off the jetty. But there is no way I would modify my boat to try and shorten the turning circle.

When I had a 23ft boat I spent a few years in a marina that didn't have posts. You just came in slowly and held off the other boats using a big fender.

[rattler]

I will just push the pin up a little so I will be able to push it back down if required it will just be a test to see if it helps.

Austin

[rattler]

I have removed the pin now but I have replaced it with a bolt which I can remove if I need to. However, because I have fitted a new Flexfold (two blade) prop I have found less "Prop walk" so I don't need to get any extra rudder movement when reversing. I have marked how much extra movement I have if needed, it is only a small amount anyway.

Austin