I recently acquired a 2007 Sun Odyssey 42i. The pre-purchase survey was very complimentary about all aspects apart from the sea cocks. It clearly recommended replacing all of them.
The engine inlet was easy and I replaced it with a bronze version. I the old one apart and, in line with many articles on this subject, the hose pipe tails were in the worst state with zinc leaching affecting the tail pipe walls badly.
The two toilet outlet valves are very tricky to access. Even turning the rather stiff valves is not easy (I looked around this forum and found the hints about using oil and white spirit to keep them freer). Will try that is an interim measure.
Now my real question: how does one replace the two toilet outlet valves and get the new hull fittings really tight? It seems to be impossible to do that through the access hatch. Can one relatively easily remove the GRP moulded bathroom floor/walls?
I am not saying that is is impossible to get tools through the hatch, but I have serious doubts about a proper tightening job being possible. This would just trade one problem with another.
Hi Walter! Congratulations on your new boat. Most everyone in this forum has changed out the junk thru hulls and seacock that Jeanneau factory installed, included the heads. We replaced them all with bronze fittings, but the Makrolon fittings are OK too...your personal choice. I would strongly suggest you change these out immediately. If you are skeptical on how to do the heads, have a yard professional do them. I did due to time and the difficulty in me getting them out. I installed Graco broze fitting with the existing hose and they have worked flawlessly since. My rad did them hanging in the sling. It took about 2 hours for each head. Where is your home port. You might want to add that to your profile. Good luck! Best regards, Brent
Hi Brent, Many thanks for the prompt reply. I have added my location and a picture to the profile. My yacht is in Portsmouth, UK. I wonder if the small access hatch is a feature that is specific to the model I have? I will take a picture next time I get down to Portsmouth. I have no doubt that I should and need to replace all sea cocks - and I will do so. I am quite experienced in engineering tasks - hence my real worry that someone will replace it without getting the new fittings properly installed. I will send a picture of the layout that I have - unfortunately I have not seen any other Jeanneaus as I just got back to boating after a 20 year break. Walter
I'll take some pictures and send them to you over the weekend, but the access openings with the doors is pretty standard on the jeanneaus. My mechanical abilities are very high, but this is one I would leave to the yard with your supervision.
Post by kordakiskostas on Jul 21, 2013 3:47:34 GMT
Guys I would like to give you just a tip about the bronze through hull outlets…
I know that the brass through hulls are not in the quality that everybody would expect.
I am also sure that every owner would like to spent little extra money for the safety of their boat and the ones onboard, but have in mind that if you decide to change the metal you have to change every one of them in the same one, otherwise what is going to happened is that the difference of the metal will create electrolyze and will corrode the brass ones much faster than it would be normally.
Also I would recommend that all through halls should be bought from one manufacturer since not all of them are using the same metal for their construction.
If anyone wants a suggestion in manufacturer or any other kind of help please sent a PM
Brent - I replaced the head outlet on my 36i. Carefully grind off the thru-hull fitting from the outside of the boat. Remove the hose from the valve using an electric heat gun. Push the thru-hull, elbow and valve assembly into the boat. Install replacement parts by preassembling elbow and valve. Screw thru-hull into the assembly using 3M 5200 sealant or alternate. It took an hour or so.
H i Guys. I had to replace one of our sea cocks on our 42I which is also a 2007 model. I agree its a bit tricky to get in there. I needed to do mine in the water as it was seized solid and I didn't want to be lifted out at the time. It went like this. Drop in the water and insert wooden bung, tap with hammer. Using a heat gun didn't work so put the saw through the pipe and discard it. unscrew the Ball valve, its not a sea cock, its a ball valve. Clean male end of 2 inch elbow with wire brush. Apply ptfe and screw on ball valve. Then the fun started the elbow cracked on the final turn. I managed to brake the elbow into bits, in place, it was that rotten. Clean through hull thread and apply Ptfe. Tighten on new 2 inch m+f elbo. Tighten on new ball valve. Fit new hose between valve tail and holding tank. Jump in water and remove wooden bung.
Due to the huge dezincification on the elbow I will be doing all the through hulls, valve and fittings early next year.
The ball valve was in very good condition apart from it being seized solid.