Siezed sheaves in Selden boom single line reefing kit on 36i

[namacgilp]

I have a Sun Odyssey 36i Performance model year 2009. After four seasons, (in which she has sailed in salt conditions and been stored outdoors in a yard over winter), I have tracked down why the Selden single line reefing system has become progressively more difficult to operate. As far as I can see most of the sheaves at both ends of the boom, are siezed.
I managed to get one to move (sort of) using WD40 with a long nozzle, but am very concerned and have no idea if the pulleys on the internal purchase are free.
Has anyone else experienced this issue and if so what did you do to remedy it? I've checked the Jeanneau manual which came with the boat and see no reference to maintenance of the single line reefing system. Is this a more general issue with Selden booms?
Any thoughts are welcome
Neil

[sitara]

Selden provide some information on their website on installation and use of the single line reefing system, the file 595-992-E.pdf (Google it) shows how it all hangs together. There is no information that I could find on seized sheaves. The best solution would be a dismantle, service and reassemble, but this would be a big job.

[rene460]

Hi namacgilp, if you refer to that Selden guide suggested by sitara, you will see how the single line reefing works.  It is very clever.  You will see that by pulling a bit of slack in each of the reefing lines in turn that you have access to the line on both sides of the travelling pulley, so you can hold some tension then pull on one side while releasing the other you will feel whether the travelling pulley is turning freely.  If it is not, you have a much bigger boom disassembly job but as they are tucked well inside the boom, I would be optimistic that they will be ok.  Similarly for the outhaul system.  You have better access to the boom end sheaves and pins and the main trick is to insert a piece of wire or similar so you do not let the sheaves fall into the boom when you remove the pins.  After cleaning and a bit of a shine they may be best put back dry and frequently rinsed with fresh water at every opportunity when you rinse the other deck fittings.
rene460

[MalcolmP]

Agree with what Rene advises, on my 39i which has the same Selden boom I find the rollers at the gooseneck end of the boom seize easily unless you wash the salt off all the time. I would expect that the shuttle blocks which are well inside the boom will probably be OK as they are well protected. I have to date not had any problem with the sheaves at the outhaul end either

I would suggest the following to free the forward sheaves:

Make sure all the reef lines and outhaul are all fully slackened off

You might be able to pour some v hot fresh water (maybe from a watering can or similar) over the boom end and flush through the sheave holes as much as possible

You will need to remove the black cover caps - take care - the Allen hex is only moulded nylon, so may well slip and go round - better to try some slip joint pliers to hold the edge of the cap - Get some new ones to replace from Selden they are low cost, one year I ended up having to cut and pick the nylon out of the threads....

clean any salt/oxidation that you can see on the end of the shaft pin and use your favourite penetrating lube - may not do a lot but still worth trying.

On the opposite side of the boom you will see that there is a much smaller hole - this acts as the end stop for the shaft pin - again clean if you can and lube (cover the decks with cloth to stop it dripping and staining and have a helper ready to catch any loose sheaves)

You will probably need to resort to some brute force to tap the shaft pin out, I would recommend using the biggest punch - or maybe old drill - that will just fit through the small hole - you need to obviously take care that excessive hammering does not crack the alloy casting, but if you have desalted as much as possible - with luck you will find 3 or 4 smart taps with a hammer on the drill/punch end will start to shift the shaft pin - re-lube and or sluice with hot water

I find that if you then use a long Allen key you can push the shaft pin right out whilst automatically threading the sheaves back on the Allen key - this should hold all the sheaves and the lines in the right place. Have your helper collect the shaft pin before it drops

You may be able to clean the shaft pin up with some fine abrasive paper, but if badly pitted (which is what I expect) you would be better getting new pins from Selden

Reassembly is simple - just the reverse - I have found PTFE white grease to be fine, but it may be better if you can find a corrosion inhibiting grease - I have not tried it but maybe something like  www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/duralac.html or 
www.acf-50.co.uk/marine.htm would be good

There will be 2 (possible 3) shaft pins at the gooseneck end that you need to do this on

Hope this helps

[jed]

Apr 16, 2013 11:20:14 GMT namacgilp said:

I have a Sun Odyssey 36i Performance model year 2009. After four seasons, (in which she has sailed in salt conditions and been stored outdoors in a yard over winter), I have tracked down why the Selden single line reefing system has become progressively more difficult to operate. As far as I can see most of the sheaves at both ends of the boom, are siezed.
I managed to get one to move (sort of) using WD40 with a long nozzle, but am very concerned and have no idea if the pulleys on the internal purchase are free.
Has anyone else experienced this issue and if so what did you do to remedy it? I've checked the Jeanneau manual which came with the boat and see no reference to maintenance of the single line reefing system. Is this a more general issue with Selden booms?
Any thoughts are welcome
Neil

Hi Neil

I had the same problem end last season an tool the boom with me home after the ship was put on the dry for the winther, and after som dificulties with desamont both end of the boom Ifind that the wheel in both ends was jammed , I was not able to take the system apart but I succes to get the wheels function again, with oil, ans hardhanded motion of the wheels, Important is that by looking in to the boom Icould see taht the wheel in the mekanisme inside the boomwas function perfect, so it is onlu on both ends , where the salt wather can work the problem was. So I think if you dis mont both ends ( 2 or 3 small schrew holding the ends in the boom ) you can get the wheels to work proberly and see if the inner mekanisme is working. Good luck

Jens-Erik

[sailbleu]

Aloow me to suggest to use this.
It sticks , is waterresistant and lasts for a long time.
I've used it on many occasions , also at home , love it.
Mind you , it's not for deblocking , but once you get the motion started this product is the way to go.




Regards

[namacgilp]

Dear Friends,
Thank you all very much for your detailed suggestions. I will try them when I am on the boat in a couple of weeks and will let you know how I get on.
Happy sailing!
Neil