dewis
New Member
Posts: 4
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Post by dewis on Oct 1, 2012 14:50:09 GMT
Does anyone know which varnish or wood stain to use to touch up damaged areas of the wooden edges (fiddles) around the sink and cupboard areas of a 2006 Sun Odyssey 35.
I have tries a few samples but they are no match and often to not take to the wood at all.
I'm UK based but would welcome suggestions from anywhere.
Richard Dewis
Aquarian.
Solent Based
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Post by sailor666 on Oct 1, 2012 17:01:59 GMT
I have used Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain - Antique Pine applied sparingly with a rag to conceal scratches and been very pleased with the outcome. Larger areas or more extensive damage will likely require sanding down and re-finishing. As always, test an inconspicuous area first. Accept this entirely at your own risk.
Mike.
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Post by Seagem on Oct 1, 2012 18:48:05 GMT
I have the same problem but I am employing a local boat repairer to sand mine and re-finish. I will try and find out what he uses and report back!
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Post by j on Oct 2, 2012 6:25:56 GMT
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Post by Seagem on Oct 8, 2012 21:42:39 GMT
I was at my boat at the week end and the fiddles have been sanded back and all the old varnish removed. I believe that they also used some sort of paint stripper first. I asked what they were going to use next and was told it was a two part clear varnish. No staining involved as it is solid wood and the natural colour. Sorry I could not get any more details.
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Post by windspeak on Oct 12, 2012 16:15:21 GMT
I have used international goldspar satin on some areas of wear its quick drying and dries to a similar luster as the original a light rub with fine steel wool and polish to finish should make it uniform if the scratches have gone through to the wood they will look darker as they are showing the unbleached wood beneath difficult to hide ? is where do you stop
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Post by Full Circle on Oct 24, 2012 21:48:19 GMT
I have had a new saloon table made, and all my locker doors have added teak cappings.
The only way to match the original finish, is to get a recommended French Polisher/Cabinetmaker to bleach the areas to blend with the now sun faded areas of the areas such as the bulkhead.
The finish is a spray painted satin, and is almost impossible to match by hand.
Costly but effective.
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Post by davideso37 on Oct 25, 2012 2:23:39 GMT
Full Circle is right the problem is matching the current colour of the wood which will depend on the exposure to light. I recently unscrewed the base of my saloon table that is screwed through the floor and was amazed at the difference in the colour of the section that had been shielded from the light.
I attend to every scratch in the woodwork as soon as I notice it since water penetration under the varnish leads to faster deterioration. I have also sealed most of the edges of the floor boards and hatches with single pack polyurethane varnish for the same reason. I have also lifted the floor boards and varnished exposed edges in the plywood sub floor on my 2006 SO37 as I believe in avoiding problems rather than fixing them. Sometimes even stripping all the varnish and redoing it will not restore the finish if there are water stains in the timber. Ok you can bleach it and stain it but it is not the same as the natural wood. Windspeak is right too. Where do you stop?
Regards
David
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