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Post by ianqv on Mar 24, 2011 20:52:27 GMT
Hi All,
Recently antifouled,, and I noticed that there was always a dribble of water coming from the anchor locker drain holes. After two days they were still dribbling (I had washed the boat two days previous).
So today I investigated.....
firstly, the anchor rope was green with mould - now replaced.
I then pull out all the chain, only to find the the anchor drain holes are two inches higher than the achor floor! I had to wash out two inches mud and crap from the locker. But, because it is continually going to be wet in there the rope will go mouldy again, and the locker drains will continualy drip! (leaving a stain on the hull (although the stain did come off with some elbow grease).
Does anyone else have this problem?
I'm thinking, is there anything I place on the anchor locker floor to raise the chain and rope out of the water?
Many thanks
Ian
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Post by moleman58 on Mar 24, 2011 21:03:32 GMT
Hi Ian
you don't say which model you have, but we have the same issue on our Sunfast 37. We don't think we can move the holes (or provide new ones), but to alleviate the problem we are putting in a marine ply false floor. Mainly to keep the chain , anchor and tackle out of the water.
cheers
Mark
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Post by ianqv on Mar 24, 2011 21:24:10 GMT
Sorry.... we have an S/O 37 (2002).
Regards
Ian
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Post by dublin on Mar 24, 2011 21:59:57 GMT
I put a falsemarine ply floor in the anchor locker of our 39. There are two stringers coming aft from the bow about 30cm off the bottom. We don't have your drainage problem but we letth rode fall though a hole in the false floor and the false floor then works as shelf which is used for storage -fenders etc when on passage.
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Post by flightdeck on Mar 24, 2011 23:04:20 GMT
If you do fit a false floor, would you be better of using some composite as to marine ply, looking at wear and tear from chain and rope, just a thought.
Cheers
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Post by sailbleu on Mar 25, 2011 3:56:16 GMT
I would go for the combination of wood and resin.
First of all , clean the bottom very good , if possible roughin it up , degrease it thoroughly , measure the required elevation.
Make the shape of the locker in marine plywood , make sure it's a bit tinner than the height of the drainholes , pour some epoxy resine in the locker and put in the plywood pushing it down with a weight so it doesn't float on the resin.
After some drying add some more (coloured in ) epoxy to seal the plywood up to the holes. Watch for resin dripping through the holes on the hull in case you pour too much.
Taping around the exterior of the holes and making a small slide away from the boat will solves that issue.
The wood is now protected and has the same colour as the rest.
Job done.
If you only use plywood it will rot away after a while , and if it is not glued on the lockerfloor it will dance around on entering water and make a hell of a noise , although the chain will be there to prevent it from jumping up. Never the less dirt and water will be building up under the wood if not glued.
Only using coloured epoxy resin to fill the lockerfloor will cost you a fortune.
Good luck
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Post by ianqv on Mar 25, 2011 9:02:21 GMT
I would go for the combination of wood and resin. First of all , clean the bottom very good , if possible roughin it up , degrease it thoroughly , measure the required elevation. Make the shape of the locker in marine plywood , make sure it's a bit tinner than the height of the drainholes , pour some epoxy resine in the locker and put in the plywood pushing it down with a weight so it doesn't float on the resin. After some drying add some more (coloured in ) epoxy to seal the plywood up to the holes. Watch for resin dripping through the holes on the hull in case you pour too much. Taping around the exterior of the holes and making a small slide away from the boat will solves that issue. The wood is now protected and has the same colour as the rest. Job done. If you only use plywood it will rot away after a while , and if it is not glued on the lockerfloor it will dance around on entering water and make a hell of a noise , although the chain will be there to prevent it from jumping up. Never the less dirt and water will be building up under the wood if not glued. Only using coloured epoxy resin to fill the lockerfloor will cost you a fortune. Good luck Thanks for that! sounds like a good idea. I've just looked at another S/O - and their locker drain holes are also too high!! |
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Post by adrianpetts on Mar 25, 2011 17:53:23 GMT
Have the same problem with my Sun Odyssey 40. When I purchased the boat there was a lot, gallons, of water in the forward locker under the bunk in the front cabin. The drain holes from the anchor locker had been badly sealed allowing water to get between the boats hull and the anchor locker molding. This then found its way under the front bunk. Easily rectified but worth keeping an eye on.
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Post by Tafika II on Mar 29, 2011 16:06:52 GMT
I installed a false floor resting on the two stringers following after from the bow. I uses a fiberglass grate fastened to the stringers with SS clips and two screws. It's enough to hold the grate down. The grate is strong enough to stand on, but open enough to allow water to drain through & also flush rinse the chain below. The grate can easily be removed with two screws for lower access. This creates as great new storage are for fenders, spare lines, etc.
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Post by ianqv on Mar 30, 2011 21:30:59 GMT
I've now looked at 3 more Jeanneau's - and all the same!! one of which had about 4 inches of water in the bottom!
The owner was right chuffed that I pointed this out adding another job to his list!!
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Post by ianqv on Mar 31, 2011 20:02:38 GMT
Hi All,
After much thought on how to fix this problem I have decided to just pour some epoxy in (about 3ltrs is needed).
I had thought of putting in another drain, but because the bottom of the anchor locker has rounded edges this is why the drain holes are so high!! (thanks Jeanneau!).
Shaping a piece of wood is an option if your woodworking skills are up to it - not only do you have to consider the anchor locker getting wider the higher it gets, the locker floor also rises towards one end! (so a real pain!).
I'll let you know how it goes!!
Ian
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Post by dublin on Mar 31, 2011 20:11:14 GMT
Surely when th boat is heeled sailing the water drains from the anchor locker so actual retention of water is not a problem in itself only to the extent that when on themooring it holds oe water in which the anchor rode is sitting.
There are yptwo stringers running back from thevp bow a abou 30cm from the floor. It is very easy to cut apece of marine ply yo fit on top of these to keep the rode out of the water.
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Post by Don Reaves on Apr 1, 2011 9:35:34 GMT
If you're going to fill the space with epoxy, at least mix it with a light-weight filler like microballoons. This will make it much lighter and easier to work with once it's set, in case you decide you want to shape it.
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Post by sailbleu on Apr 3, 2011 5:30:42 GMT
Hi All, After much thought on how to fix this problem I have decided to just pour some epoxy in (about 3ltrs is needed). I had thought of putting in another drain, but because the bottom of the anchor locker has rounded edges this is why the drain holes are so high!! (thanks Jeanneau!). Shaping a piece of wood is an option if your woodworking skills are up to it - not only do you have to consider the anchor locker getting wider the higher it gets, the locker floor also rises towards one end! (so a real pain!). I'll let you know how it goes!! Ian Hello Ian , I'm really supprised it's only 3 liters you need. In that case i wouldn't hasle with wood and all. You can find some fairly cheap epoxy on the net (ebay) . But do make sure you clean en grind-up the area a bit so the epoxy has a good grip. Is the boot in the water now ? If not , I would wait untill it is before pouring in the epoxy. In that case you have the correct angle of the boat you see. But i'm sure you thought of that by yourself. Let us know how it goes , pictures tell more than a thousand words. Good luck |
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Post by ianqv on Apr 3, 2011 19:48:24 GMT
Hi All,
I haven't taken the plunge yet!! Just reading up how best to do the job. Thanks for all the advice - it is v helpful!
The boat is in the water - so should find it's correct level.
Best Regards
Ian
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 19:55:00 GMT
Dear All, As promised here is the update.... Just to re-cap: My anchor locker ALWAYS has 3ltrs of water in it because the drain holes that Jeanneau drill from new are TWO inches higher than they should be!! (Grrrrrrrr!!!!!) So, now totally fed up with my anchor chain and rope sitting in 2 inches of salt water 24/7 - and also causing a nice brown dribble stain on the outside of my nice shiny hull, it was time to sort out Jeanneau's mistake!! So in a nutshell I sunk a drain in to the base of the locker and then out through the side of the hull...... This is how it was done: First pic = the outside of the hull... and the nice brown rust stain!  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 19:56:26 GMT
This is the water that ends up just sitting in the locker! Nice!!  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 19:58:41 GMT
Once the anchor locker has been cleaned out / dried and then cleaned and dried.... I drilled the 17mm hole to take the skin fitting. Be sure to check you can get to the underside with your spanner first!!  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 20:02:10 GMT
View from the inside showing the skinfitting sealed in with marine sealer..  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 20:06:32 GMT
This pic (taken during daylight just for illistration...) - I got Mrs Ianqv to hold a torch against the outside of the hull so I could see where to drill my hole whilst I was laying in the forepeak. Note Mrs Ianqv had bad toothache whilst doing this - but this did not affect the quality off the job   |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 20:08:46 GMT
I then drilled the outside of the hull, applied sealer to the stainless skin fitting and tightened it up from the inside.  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 20:10:00 GMT
Skin fitting tight... about to wipe the excess sealer away  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 1, 2012 20:13:21 GMT
And now the important bit (no... not open a bottle of wine!!) Join the two skin fittings together with reinforced pipe. I then put two jubilee clips around each fitting. Job done.... took about an hour!! now I have an anchor locker that actually drains!! Finally - open the wine!! Hope this helps! Regards Ian  |
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Post by ianqv on Mar 2, 2012 20:33:56 GMT
Hi All,
Just like to add an N.B...
I left the original anchor locker drain holes alone, working on the basis if the locker gets swamped in big waves - it'll just drain quicker!
I tested the new drain hole out today (as the sealer was dry) - it works a real treat!!!!
Regards
Ian
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