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Post by Black Diamond on May 28, 2010 2:42:55 GMT
On my 39i Performance, and other 39i, you'll notice the outter shrouds are mounted on the extreme outter edge of the hull. This does not allow a larger jib or genoa to be installed on the boat, since it can not be hauled back past the spreaders.
I realize the boat was designed for Ocean Cruising & Racing primarily. The performs amazingly on the Ocean or large seas, and even on Lake Ontario wear I sail. Normally I would not be interested in installing a larger jib then the 110 or 120% that comes with the boat.
However, I really enjoy racing, and on Lake Ontario, many times the wind is moderate or light, on other boats with a 150 or 160% Genoa, who can haul it in real tight and sail fast and close hauled up wind. I have no chance to keep up.
Any ideas here guys? I was considering installing another track further aft near the cock pit, but I will only be able to haul the genoa outside the spreaders and life lines, this will not help me sail close up wind.
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Post by MartyB on May 28, 2010 4:35:45 GMT
You might look at a code 0 spin or an asym that you can sheet reasonably tight too. If those fail........
Here is where multiple head sails come into play. While I can put a 155 on my boat, I have a 130 drifter. It is made of 1.5oz nylon spin cloth, max wind is 6-7 knots up wind, from here my 155 fiberpath takes over. Other options similar, are light an heavy max jibs you can put on your boat too! This is how many other fractional rigged boats operate. A C&C 115 that I know of has two maybe 3 110 jibs, ie max that can go on that boat, one for under 7 knots, one for 7-15, another for 15-25, then a 90% and a 75% for heavier winds yet!, along with reefing of the main. THey also of all things have a light and heavy main too, ALL mind you are 3DL's! Should I mention they also have a set of delivery sail?!?!?!?!? Yes they have more $$$ tied up in sails than the boat cost........but they are very very competitive locally! For you, a light and heavy jib would be good
My drifter was about $900 or there abouts, it is a tri radial design. In comparison, my fiberpath was $3500. The 155 is 345#, the other about 320, but it picks up the zephers really well! Then change out the tirradial main to a laminate. You do not need to go to a string, but something like Ullmans CAL, which is a panel scrim laminate with a cost on part with a decent dacron/tri-radial sail. My cruise/daysail/delivery 140 was $1600. It is surprising how strong this sail pulls. I know of a few others with these sails, all luv them. A main for my boat would have been about 2G for a 195#. A dealer owned C&C 115 placed 2nd with just a main/jib and decent spin to the above mentioned 115 at the first Seattle NOODs two yrs ago. Clobbering the rest of us with stock dacron sails! The dealer boat was on the other boats tail the whole time.
There are some options, none of them cheap!
marty
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Post by MartyB on May 28, 2010 4:53:43 GMT
Another thing to think about is crew wt and where they are placed in light winds. if you go here www.mbycwa.org/PhotoAlbum/Spring_Sail_Regatta/2010/index.htmlThis is MANY pics from a regatta the last weekend in March I did, the winds one day were never above 5 knots. Look at picture 7 then 70. Both of these are my boat. Note that #7 the ass is dragging, #70 fairly balanced on the water line. Also note where the crew is sitting in both shots. In our defense......... #7 is waiting around for the first race to start, #70 is actual shot in race 1, altho could have been #2. None the less, you can see how in these light winds, crew placement, and to a degree, think about where other JUNK/WEIGHT at the ends of the boat are not good. Hence why extra sails should be over the keel etc as much as possible. There was only one boat in my class that I did not beat boat for boat, and I was the 2nd slowest, and smallest boat, the slowest was a Cat30. I was tied at the first day after 2 races for 1st, last day the C30 got 2 bullets to place first, the only way they could get first! Otherwise Tatoosh the one boat I did not beat or I had first locked up if either would have gotten a 1st sunday, as we ea had a 1st and 2nd sat. With one throw out and a first, either was locked in. Results for the spring 2010 regatta are here www.mbycwa.org/Regatta/Sail/marty
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Post by Phantom on Jun 2, 2010 3:03:23 GMT
Ed, Our option is to fly a Code 0. I discussed the Code 0 with the Seldon Rep at Strictly Sail-Chicago and was told the bow sprit is not engineered to carry the tension a Code 0 requires. When in use, the Code 0 basically replaces the head stay. Different mounting alternatives were explored and one is to secure the Code 0 to the anchor side, as opposed to the sprit side, of the anchor roller just forward of the pulpit with a shackle. In order to carry the load, the anchor roller needs to be "beefed" up with longer bolts and backing plate. The washers would provide the required support. Rick
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leecondell
Junior Member
Posts: 15
Country: Australia
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Post by leecondell on Sept 3, 2010 23:48:08 GMT
Although limited you can maximise the area of a genoa by having a dead-eye fitted on the bow fitting so that a racing genoa fits right down to the deck, then maximise the roach with battens. The area gained isn't significant, but what it does then make VERY effective is barberhauling the genoa sheet to close the slot between the leech of the genoa and the mainsail. We have done this on several 39's and 42's and it works a treat. Significant speed improvement upwind in under 8 knots true. It means a new genoa, a dead-eye at the tack and two deck fittings on the coachroof to direct barberhaulers back to two swivel blocks adjacent to the clutches. It's like fitting a turbo!
Cheers
Lee
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