Tonic 23 Lifting outboard

[reydonpaul]

I am interested in exploring methods of raising the outboard in the outboard well for less drag when sailing.

I read a post from 'rene460'  in this forum who said "some have made brackets to hold a vertical track so the engine is lifted straight up."

Has anyone any suggestions on how to do this?

Space in the well is limited so the usual transom mounted outboard lifting mechanism will not work.

[MalcolmP]

Hi ReydonPaul

This Hints and Tips article may help:

www.jeanneau-owners.com/hintsandtips/Tonicoutboardmodifications.html

Good luck. Malcolm

[rene460]

Hi Reydonpaul,

It’s a good idea if you are able to work out a way of lifting the outboard when it is not running.  It is quite a drag when down.

As you say, space is very tight, so it requires careful thought and precise measurements of your motor and well.  In the well is slightly better than the transom mount if you find yourself in rough water, but if you can reach the motor on the transom the normal lift devices are easier to install and work very well.  It is also worth looking at them closely to give you a good idea of what strength you need.  The motor pushes from well below the mount (or pulls in reverse) exerting a torque on the mount rather than a simple straight push, so fixing points need to be spaced vertically.

One boat model I know quite well used a particular outboard model for many years.  Then the manufacture did an update and it would no longer fit.  Made it particularly hard to replace an old motor as the new model just did not fit, and the installation had to be substantially modified.

The mainsheet tracks (about 30 mm I beam type from memory made a good mounting system which I have seen on several boats.  They used two main sheet travellers each side for the smaller motors but three may be better for the larger 9 hp models.  The tracks are cut to length and need to be mounted an the back of the forward locker and will probably need some fibreglass work to build a suitable bed, and some reinforcing plates in the locker where the track bolts attach ( just like any heavily loaded deck fitting.  Then the motor mounting board mounts on the traveler cars, the ball bearing wheeled type, and some pulleys arranged to make the lift a bit easier.  Finally cleats to hold it securely in position once you start lifting.

Of course this all assumes the locker is deep enough for the motor to stay vertical.  Alternatively you may have to tilt the motor once the leg is inside, and lower the motor a bit to close the lid.  Clearly the dimensional challenges are not trivial, and personally, I would go for the stern mounting if you can see it working for you.  You normally steer by rudder and only steer the actual motor to get the stern in and out of a tight jetty berth.  Good springs make lifting the motor quite manageable.

A lot to try and describe in one post, and I am sure I have overlooked issues you are thinking of.  Unfortunately I don’t currently have any photos I can think of, but prepared to keep discussing as your ideas develop and questions arise.

The post Malcolm referred to appears to be a fixed installation, with a 9 hp motor.  You may find a good 8 with a displacement prop would give you critical mm with minimal drop in performance.  You only need to achieve hull speed with a bit of extra thrust in hand to get yourself off a Lee shore.

Good luck with the project.  We are all interested in how you go.

rene460

[reydonpaul]

Thanks Rene and Malcolm. I should have said that I already have the motor and I am in the process of installing a fully electric system. I have downsized from a Jeanneau SO37 last year and I wanted a smaller boat as I am now in my 70's and have sailed single handed (with my wife!) in France for the past 8yrs. I plan to sail much more conservatively and the explore the East coast of the UK now, hence the shallower draft.



I have an epropulsion navy 3 which drives the boat well in calm waters; Instantly available power, no starting dramas, no noise or fumes, no petrol tank  etc.etc unfortunately expensive and I would like to be able to raise it preferably with some kind of ratchet system. I thought I could mount it on the existing engine mount as I have the space to move it back in the well. A short length of jib sheet track with locking pins might do. 



I admit I have got a bit carried away with this project (half the value of the boat!). I have an E60 battery, charger (shore power) charger (solar) and a side mounted power control. My cockpit display gives me SOG and range.



The project is ongoing.... 

[MalcolmP]

Looks fantastic ReydonPaul

As we get older downsizing is a good option, will follow this project with great interest. Electric power has many advantages, despite the cost, such as being able to creep up on wild birds, early in the morning.

I am guessing from the "Reydon" bit of your name that you are Southwold area based? We sailed the East Coast for many years, based in the Orwell, the Deben, the Ore and of course know the Black Shore really well.

We are now in the Mediterranean, but miss the tranquillity of the East Coast. 

Good luck, looking forward to more instalments. 

Malcolm

[reydonpaul]

That's right Malcolm. We are currently exploring the Broads and testing the engine. Eventually planning to get out to sea next year and down to Southwold. After that working our way down the coast if all goes well.

[rene460]

Hi Radonpaul,

Thats a very interesting and exciting project, even before you consider lifting the engine.  Especially now with lithium batteries allowing the necessary capacity with a more reasonable weight.  Silent running even under motor.

It does look like you have enough room for the motor though not much scope to tilt when it is up.  However, I assume the locker is deep enough to keep the motor vertical.  Much easier to fit in than a large IC outboard.  Have you considered providing a hinged flap or pair of flaps to close off the opening when the motor is up?

The jib tracks are tempting on a cost basis, but I would suggest one of those tracks that have the recirculating ball travellers will have plenty of load bearing capacity and much less friction.  Otherwise the small I-beam mainsheet tracks I mentioned previously with ball bearing wheels on the travellers.  If your lift rope runs through a cam cleat, it will provide the “ratchet” action to hold the motor while you get a new grip, though probably worth having a simple horn cleat for the tail as a safety backup once it’s up and the hatch is down.  A point to consider is that simple sliding track cars still have quite a bit of friction if you do not totally unload them.  Unless the lift point is really at the balance point, it might be difficult to lift.

Looking forward to seeing the next steps.

rene460

[reydonpaul]

If your lift rope runs through a cam cleat, it will provide the “ratchet” action to hold the motor while you get a new grip,

Good idea Rene460, I like it! My favourite idea would be a screw mechanism similar to a jockey wheel on a trailer, but I think it's a bit too crazy! But I didn't think of a lift rope!

Regards,
Paul.