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Post by bruceirl on Mar 9, 2024 11:22:30 GMT
Hi All,
New owner of a well looked after SO40 from 2001 here. Was his first boat... now my first boat (!)
A few things I need to fix up and hope to get advice here ... ...the depth gauge is not reading correctly (just reads zero or the offset all the time) ... ... there is a slow leak from the ceiling light above the wardrobe in the aft-port-cabin and I can't find out the source of the leak ... ... also looking at polishing up the hull (it's a little bit oxidised) ... ... would like to "refresh" the teak decks... not sure what to do about them whether to just treat them or replace them (looking at flexiteek/evoteak/others) but some pins are peeking out in the bow area and there a little lifting on the cockpit floor so leaning toward the latter.
Fair winds, Bruce
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Post by Charlie-Bravo on Mar 9, 2024 19:54:15 GMT
Congratulations on your first boat, always the start of an adventure in many ways.
The depth reading error could be many things from just a dodgy connection to a dead transducer, but without listing the instrument in question, may limit those with knowledge of your instrument, in helping you work out how best to fix it, so do elaborate a bit on make and model of display and transducer, and no doubt someone will have answers for you.
I don’t know where your leak starts from, but often these things can be from a stanchion base, and will most likely be from a deck fitting. Tricky to deduce as water may collect a distance from the cause, so some detective work may be required, and removal of a headlining or two.
Polishing up the hull , whilst possible diy , does involve a degree of investment of dual action sanders, buffers etc, cutting compounds and polishes, and plenty of effort is required, it may be worth getting some professional help here as it can be a long job. Once professionally polished you should be able to keep it looking good, with a little tlc each year.
Teak decks can be lovely ….. but extra work, the little pins you find can be knocked in, with a little block of metal and a hammer, and then clean the teak with a little oxalic acid, there are many teak restoration kits out there, avoid heavy sanding, it just makes the teak disappear quicker. The lifting cockpit floor sounds like a bit more work, and replacement with ‘alternative’ products may be the answer budget wise.
At least your little list of known hitches are not going to sink you ! so enjoy your boat, and improve her as you go, it’s all part of boat ownership, and the improvements you make will just make owning her a greater joy.
CB
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Post by bruceirl on Mar 24, 2024 20:26:04 GMT
Thanks Charlie. That all gives me a good steer.
Re the depth transducer - the instrument in question is an ST60... and according to the manual it takes either M78713 or M78718 depth transducers ... which is a separate unit to the speed transducer (haven't had eyes on the depth transducer so can't confirm right now - I assume its in the bilge compartment just inside the front cabin ... as its not in the compartment *with* the mast and the speed sensor). The *speed* transducer itself seems to be generic... no brand/model or identifiable markings at all.
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Post by Charlie-Bravo on Mar 24, 2024 21:41:16 GMT
The log (water speed transducer) will stop or read wrong with even a small amount of fouling, I now leave mine inside the boat for the winter and pop it back into its through hull before going on a trip, they need a few cleans each year depending on the fouling in your area. They are easy to remove, and you should have a blank plug to insert into the through hull to hand before removing the transducer, (research this if you haven’t done it before to prevent flooding) Once removed you can clean and spin its little paddle wheel, and with a friend viewing your instrument you can tell if it is working as a speed will be visible on the instrument, determining accuracy is trial and error, comparing it to gps speed during a run at slack water in calm weather gets you quite close.
The depth transducer will likely be in the bilge area you describe, quite close to the centre line of the hull, and is trickier to test, but once found to be working , for accuracy I use a lead line and compare it to the read out on the instrument then adjust the off set to give me the correct reading. Knowing the depth of water under you is rather vital. If it just isn’t playing the game at all , trace the cables looking for damage, and unplug them from the ST60, clean the contacts and re connect them, that often sorts out these things.
the ST60 its self has many ‘settings’ in hidden menus all of which can be found in a manual on line , it may require a re set, or off set adjustment , it’s not difficult but does require a lot of button pushes and ‘holds’ in the correct order to accomplish anything, worth a study and having a go, if it doesn’t work now …… it can’t get any worse, you won’t break it.
Hope you are enjoying the boat.
CB
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