dannyrusso
Junior Member
Posts: 17
Jeanneau Model: NC 795
Country: USA
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Post by dannyrusso on Aug 13, 2022 14:27:15 GMT
I just bought a 2018 NC 795 and have the gas stove, which in all probability I will never use. I live right next to the marina (on a lake), so all cooking will be done at home, and a microwave will take care of heating any food I bring on the boat. I looked under the stove and don't see any way of unbolting it from the table. Any idea how it's mounted? I don't want to damage anything, since I'll re-install it in case I ever want to sell the boat.
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zen0414
New Member
Posts: 7
Jeanneau Model: NC 795
Yacht Name: Jesse’s Girl II
Home Port: Sandusky, ohio
Country: USA
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Post by zen0414 on Aug 14, 2022 13:16:36 GMT
I had the same idea. I was going to replace it with a cutting board. Ours is a 2022 nc 795 and it is secured with a black adhesive caulk. I didn’t try to pry it up because I would probably end up bending or breaking something. I did notice that you can remove the grills as they are held in by clips. Maybe this winter I’ll make a custom cutting board that fits over top of stove with the grills and knob removed and uses the clip to secure it.
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dannyrusso
Junior Member
Posts: 17
Jeanneau Model: NC 795
Country: USA
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Post by dannyrusso on Aug 14, 2022 13:33:32 GMT
Yes, I looked a little closer yesterday and saw it indeed was glued on. Not happy. They could have just as easily used a screw-in mount, which would have made removal (or replacement) a thousand percent easier. I may try to remove it anyway. Funny, I also don't like the front hatch opening rearward. My last boat, a Sea Ray, had it opening from the front, which gave much better ventilation when anchored. I'll investigate it later today, but I'd bet it's glued in also.
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dannyrusso
Junior Member
Posts: 17
Jeanneau Model: NC 795
Country: USA
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Post by dannyrusso on Aug 15, 2022 13:46:05 GMT
UPDATE: I was able to use a spackle blade and slowly work it under the frame. Not an easy job, but not the hardest job I've done on a boat. I taped off the area beyond the frame, to keep from scratching the surface. Got it out and now I have some cleanup to do. Heating the blade with a heat gun (or torch) makes the removal of the caulking easier. I had a piece of lexan sheet, and cut it to size. Sprayed the bottom black, and will glue it down, painted side on the bottom. I'll wait a few days for the paint to cure before installing.
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Post by paulmcc on Aug 15, 2022 20:23:50 GMT
I reversed the front hatch on my 2016 795 for the same reason. It wasn't difficult, just a screwdriver drill and some silicon sealant. Much better ventilation now. No downside except I guess if you hit a wave with hatch open more water comes in but that hasn't been a problem.
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dannyrusso
Junior Member
Posts: 17
Jeanneau Model: NC 795
Country: USA
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Post by dannyrusso on Aug 19, 2022 15:01:46 GMT
I reversed the front hatch on my 2016 795 for the same reason. It wasn't difficult, just a screwdriver drill and some silicon sealant. Much better ventilation now. No downside except I guess if you hit a wave with hatch open more water comes in but that hasn't been a problem. How did you pry up the frame? It's recessed, making it impossible to attack the frame from the sides. Also, how did you work with the caulking in the lower part in the cabin? I'm wondering if I should put it off till next year, or do it now. We have another few months before the end of the boating season here in CT. BTW, instead of putting a plate over the hole left after removing the stove, I decided to make it a storage bin. I'll put a hinge on the cover I originally made to cover the hole. Should be a nice area to store utensils and other small stuff. I decided to keep the small 700 watt microwave on the table, below the window. Added rubber feet and added a strap that keeps it from moving around while underway.
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dannyrusso
Junior Member
Posts: 17
Jeanneau Model: NC 795
Country: USA
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Post by dannyrusso on Aug 28, 2022 12:51:34 GMT
For anyone wanting to remove the hatch, for whatever reason, I recommend heating the frame with a heatgun. My hatch was very securely mounted and wouldn't budge. There was not enough space below the frame to use a pry tool. Evenly heating one section of the frame, while protecting the fiberglass with a with taping knife, did the trick. I was able to pry up the frame using the lip that makes the seal with the rubber gasket on the lid. I protected the fiberglass with a piece of rubber and a piece of then plywood. Once the frame was hot enough it started to allow my homemade cutting tool to fit under the frame. I also could have just used heat alone for the entire process. Once the frame is hot enough the caulking just melts, and no longer has good adhesion. I reversed the frame, drill some new holes, re-caulked, and it's now facing the right direction.
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