Water gauge NC11

[Hanzel]

Hi all,

Did anyone of you replace the mechanic (6 holes mounted) fresh water gauge for an electronic 5 holes mounted one?
Which type did you use, lenght?
Are the screws of the original one only fitted in the plastic or having nuts inside the tank?
Is there an inspection hole in the tank?
Sorry for these questions but for the NC11 I am really a newbie and on top the boat is in winterstorage so no possibility to see for myself coming time…

thanks for your advises.

[andreasm]

Hi Hanzel,
I did replace the mechanical fresh water gauge with an electronic one. I used a KUS NMEA 2000 Sensor with a length of 250mm to have the water level shown in the Raymarine chartplotter. To mount the sensor with SAE 5-holes to the six holes of the tank I used an 5-hole adapter and drilled three holes through the adapter fitting to three of the six holes of the tank and some Sikaflex. I ordered the parts from www.svb24.nl/, order numbers shown in the picture. To connect the Sensor to the NMEA 2000 network there are spare connectors inside the starboard side compartment. You will need a cable adopting from Micro-C to
 the Raymarine type connectors.
  

[andreasm]

The picture from the inside of the compartment, spare connectors (white) in the bottom right corner:

[andreasm]

Luckily I found a picture with the mounted water level sensor:

  

[Hanzel]

Thanks Andreasm,

This will help me, very good idea to have it connected to the Ray plotter.
When the boat is floating (pffff …. weeks from now …….) I will check if there are some empty spaces at the Nmea2000 connector.
Did you find an inspection hole to see the inside of the freshwater tank?
 
Hans

[andreasm]

Hi Hans,

I did not find an inspection hole. Maybe there is one underneath the floor panels but then you have to remove the whole floor. Through the sensor hole I have had a little view to the inside, the tank is very shallow for its capacity of 250 litres.

Andreas

[Hanzel]

Hi all,

This week I replaced the original 'manual 6-holes gauge" with the following materials.
The diameter of the  holes of the 6-holes Wema adapter is bigger than the original 60 mm diameter of the manual thing.
I drilled 5 new holes 2 mm and used the original parkers instead of the through M5 bolts.
I used a 250 mm Wema sender type S3, screwed in the adapter, connected to the Wema meter build in under the 220V panel under the seat and powered from the local 12V panel.
Great how it works now!

And for your info: no inspection hole in the water tank!





  

[lonewolf]

Hi Hanzel,

Thank you for the information that you have already provided.
Andreasm, thank you as well.

I have just found out that my water gauge is faulty. It was still showing 1/2 full when the water ran out.
Do you have any more details about the parts that you used? My original gauge has 6 holes and all of the replacements appear to have 5.
Did you have to drill any holes into the water tank? I am concerned about swarf getting into the water system.
Do you have a picture of where your new gauge is mounted?
I like andreasm's idea of connecting it to the chartplotter but the gauge will be more convenient for me.

Thank you.

[Hanzel]

Hi Lonewolf,

After removing my mechanical gauge I found a hole as attached, with the mentioned 6 holes from sst screws (not bolts).
The thickness of the tank is quite good, so I mounted the threaded adapter with the old sst screws and the rubber ring in 5 new pre-drilled holes.
Check at that location the distance from top adapter to bottom and buy a sender little shorter but closest to that dimension.
You have to find the new position of the holes that way that new holes are not to close to the old holes.
I did not use the at the adapter belonging bolts and horse shoe plate.


Working hours in total about 2 and costs less than €100,—.
Works perfect and accurate.




Location of the instrument itself, have no picture but this is location.




Next thing I did was finding out the translation of the reading to the remaining litres water.
I used following procedure to enable this:
filling tank completely, than open one water tap completely, take the marks on the instrument and note the exact time from start opening watertap until completely empty.
Knowing the total time to empty 250 litres, easy to calculate the water remaining.

250 liters in 30 minutes is 8,3 liter per minute.
this means that reading half full at the instrument was reached in 12 minutes = 12*8,3=100 liter pumped out, so half full equals 150 liters remaining 👨🏻‍🎓.

Hope this will help you, success and br
Hans

[lonewolf]

Hi Hans,

Thank you so much for your detailed reply. I lifted the floor and removed the gauge this afternoon and mine looks exactly the same as yours. I have measured all of the dimensions so I can now order the sender and the gauge. I am going to install my gauge in the same location that you have.

Is that an actual photo of your electrical panel as the voltmeter is working?

I have an electrician booked in to have a look at my wiring but there is a 6 week wait for that. I will let you know how it goes if yours is still not working.

Thanks again.

[Hanzel]

No problem, glad I can be of any help and great we can help each other this way.
The photo is not new but indeed my volt meter is working when I switch the middle 3 way switch to left side.
In middle the volt meter is dead but still power on my outlets………..
I wish this was my fuel gauge, showing empty and always full of diesel 🤣.

When you have any news about your panel, please keep me informed.
Wish you a great season with the lovely boat!

[lonewolf]

Hi Hans,

My panel has a slightly different problem. The voltmeter doesn't work in any switch position and the sockets are live in all 3 positions.
I will keep you updated.

Thank you.