Converting my boat to Digital

[virtualburton]

Hi guys,

As many of you will have noticed, I've been making a lot of electrical posts. This is because I have been diving into the electrical system on my SO469 in great detail to convert the boat from analog wiring to digital. This means:

- replacing the 12v power distribution on both the port and starboard sides and re-routing loads to a new digital power distribution system
- replacing the scheiber panel with an MFD to control the switches
- re-routing the gauge senders to analog inputs to the digital system
- installing multiple digital "Monitor Track and Control" systems to compare and contrast how each of them work. I have Garmin OnDeck and Siren 3 Pro.
- installing new Battery Monitoring system and new shunts to accurately measure current and loads across the boat
- installing relays for AC circuits

All of this is in aid of the next phase - remote interaction with my boat via the cloud on and off the boat.

Disclaimer - I work in the industry and cannot share details of some aspects, but wanted to share what I am doing for others who are contemplating the same. 

As an option from what I am doing, you do not need to re-wire everything - many systems offer the ability to switch a limited number of circuits (4, 6 or 8) using relays and this is a very effective and easy way to retrofit into an existing boat. I am going "whole hog" digital because of my work but the same principles apply to retrofitting only a small number of circuits. 

This will be a living post that I will add to as time allows, and I will release more info on specifics of exactly what I have done as my work allows. I will share what I did and answer any questions anyone has. At first the content may be a bit light because there's info I can't share yet.

So the obvious question? Why bother? What are the advantages of going digital and is it worth it. Well I think yes, but as they say, your mileage will vary. The main advantages I see are:

- The ability to monitor the boat when I'm not here. Bilge pump, temperatures, security, batteries, cameras, depth, wind, etc. I travel a lot so for me this is very important since I live aboard

- The ability to control loads from anywhere - on the boat or off the boat. Turn the heat on when I'm an hour from home so the boat is warm when I get there

- The ability to combine loads into smart functions like boat on/off, Nav mode on/off, go to bed, etc. I can combine functions like turning on all of the electronics, autopilot, AIS, MFDs, VHF, etc. with the touch of one button

- The ability to control everything from everywhere. On my boat, I have added an MFD inside the cabin which I use mainly for domestic purposes. I can control everything through that panel, but also from either of the MFDs at the port and starboard helm and other switching locations throughout the boat. I can also control everything through a mobile app when I'm on the boat or off, it makes no difference.

- Geofence and tracking. I'm able to "arm" the boat when I am not here and if it leaves a radius I get notified, also works for anchor watch. Tracking allows me to see where the boat has gone. This could be good for people who share a boat or god forbid let their kids take the boat out on their own!

- Integration to wearables and other mobile devices

I know this isn't for everyone so if you're not interested feel free to skip, but if you are., here's a sneak preview:

[bereboot]

It looks a bit " James bond"

[Trevor]

Looks good… are you using EmpirBus?

[virtualburton]

Jan 3, 2022 12:48:04 GMT Trevor said:

Looks good… are you using EmpirBus?

Can't say... 

[virtualburton]

So as an overview of what's necessary to convert to digital it's important to understand that there is "digital" and "digital switching" Digital switching means switches that are actuated digitally somehow, the most common are systems that use relays or MosFETs (FETs). Relays are the simplest and are best for retrofitting. FETs are usually part of a digital distributed switching system, like CZone, Empirbus, Naviop or others.


The main difference is relay systems (like Siren Marine Siren 3 Pro or Garmin OnDeck) just digitally switch a relay which is easy to install to "interrupt" a wire thereby turning it on or off.  Digital switching systems like Zone and Empirbus are actually digital power distribution modules that switch FETs and allow many configuration options and circuit protections. They are also highly customizable allowing graphics with MFD integrations, custom layouts, gangability, integration to NMEA 2000, etc. This is what I am doing.

If you are considering switching a few DC or AC loads but otherwise leaving the electrical system intact a relay based system is the way to go. To do this, all you really need to do is figure out which wire you want to interrupt and install a relay to switch that wire, then run the wire from the system to the relay. To install a relay, you typically need power, ground, the signal wire from the Siren 3 or OnDeck (or other) and the wire you are switching. If you plan to switch more than a few circuits you may need to install a small fuse panel or buss bar to pull powers and grounds for your relays, then it's simply a matter of cutting the wire and connecting it to the load terminals on the relay and last, run a small gauge wire to the Siren 3 or whatever. Note you can also switch AC loads, you juts need to be sure that the relay you are using is AC compatible and can handle the full rated current for either AC or DC.

In order to find the wires to switch, this is where we rely on the schematics. For Jeanneau, there are schematics available that have wiring diagrams with numbers on them. The numbers correlate to a device and there are tables that link the device to it's wires. the wires are all labelled with alpha-numeric takes, like JE1, PC5, etc. The wires, at least on my boat have these numbers printed at intervals all along the wire. What you need to do is look on the diagrams to find out what panel or distribution box the wires run to, then look at the wires connected to that panel and find the one you're looking for. Once you find it, you can find a good location for a relay and cut it then connect each cut end to the loads of the relay. From there you just configure the system which usually involves just giving it a name and you're done. Through the mobile apps for relay-based systems you can now switch that load!

For my boat, I'm not installing relays so I need to re-route all of these wires from their current panels/distributions to the digital distribution systems. On my Sun Odyssey 469 (the 479 is the same boat) there are 2 main DC panels. One on the starboard side that has a Scheiber panel with switches and fuses. The other is on the Port side and is a series DC breakers mounted to a DIN rail. I needed to re-route all of the wires from the Scheiber panel and most of them from the DIN breakers to 2 separate digital systems.

Here's the port side breakers on the DIN rail:



And starboard Scheiber panel:





You can see over the last few months I labelled wires as I figured out what they were. Don't worry, I figured out what the Unknown" was on the DIN rail.

Unfortunately at this point I can't share detailed photos of the digital systems I am using, but I can say I located one under the settee seat at the aft end of the settee and the other under the aft nav station seat:



As of now, I have re-routed the wiring and have the system working. As you saw above, I replaced the Scheiber switches with a Garmin MFD. My boat is all Raymarine but I needed the Garmin for work so it's another aspect - having all of this work with all of MFDs. Yesterday I completed re-wiring all the gauge inputs to the digital system and now am working on adding some AC switching.

That's about all I have for now. I'm not sure if this type of post is "normal" here and if it's useful or wanted? please let me know if you don't want to see this level of detail or "narrative" style post. I'm mainly doing this to share what I've learned because when I started this I couldn't find much. In fact the only useful info I have been able to find is here on this forum. A secondary reason for me is document or "journal" it. I will add more specifics as I can, but as I mentioned some of this is confidential right now.

I apologise if this is not your cup of tea - I won't be offended if people would rather I don't post as much detail here.

Anyone who has any specific questions feel free to DM me.

Thanks everyone,
David

EDIT - typos (big fingers, small keys)

[Don Reaves]

I find this thread fascinating. I'm sure if other's don't want to read it, there will be no reason for them to do so.

Back in the early 1980's I thought about building a homemade fluxgate compass and interfacing it with the instruments on my 25 foot sailboat so I could compute various navigational parameters, like true and ground wind speed and direction. Unfortunately, it was really too early, since computers systems were not very portable at that time, or they took too much power. Or maybe the real reason I didn't pursue the idea was that I wanted to spend my time sailing and not maintaining what was at that time an unnecessary system.

Good luck with your project. Needless to say, you will need to document everything carefully for the next owner!

Don

[moonshadow]

I find this very interesting and way out of my knowledge base. I’m glad there are people that have the desire and dedication to work these things out. I’m sure that’s where so much past progress has been made to bring us to what we accept as normal now.
Keep it up and keep us updated!
How well does all this stuff hold up in salty, humid environments?

[virtualburton]

Jan 3, 2022 22:13:34 GMT Don Reaves said:

I find this thread fascinating. I'm sure if other's don't want to read it, there will be no reason for them to do so.

Back in the early 1980's I thought about building a homemade fluxgate compass and interfacing it with the instruments on my 25 foot sailboat so I could compute various navigational parameters, like true and ground wind speed and direction. Unfortunately, it was really too early, since computers systems were not very portable at that time, or they took too much power. Or maybe the real reason I didn't pursue the idea was that I wanted to spend my time sailing and not maintaining what was at that time an unnecessary system.

Good luck with your project. Needless to say, you will need to document everything carefully for the next owner!

Don

Thanks Don - absolutely need to document it, for future owners but also for future me. That's one reason I'm writing this, to keep a record. I am doing all of the wiring to ABYC standards and as good or better than factory with everything labelled so any marine electrician worth their salt should be able to figure it out. I've also added notes and updates to my copy of the schematics.

Glad you're enjoying it, David 

[virtualburton]

Jan 3, 2022 23:11:00 GMT moonshadow said:

How well does all this stuff hold up in salty, humid environments?

Hi moonshadow... envious of your current travels in the Bahamas!

RE: your question above, most electronics designed for marine use nowadays are at least conformal coated (where they spray or sometimes even dip the boards in a polymer coating). Some that are IP6x rated (these are IP67 which means submersed at a depth of 1m for 30 mins) are actually potted. These are sealed units designed for exposed marine conditions.

Interestingly, to me at least, often you'll see people wash conformal coated boards and even scrub flux, etc. off them. It's not like when I was younger and a drop of water killed a circuit board!

Cheers, David

[bccoast]

Hi David, 

Just bought our first boat and have a few electrical issues that I am digging into. Starting to learn marine electrical and DC which is new to me. I might not understand everything yet but doing my best to put it all into context. 

First up for me is the navigraph display, found a panel and ordered, will see if I can get it installed with mucking up. A little anxious about soldering the circuit board to remove old one and install new one. will see. 

Are you keeping your navigraph? if not, for sale

Cheers, 
Chris

[virtualburton]

Hi Chris - Thanks for the update and sounds fun. I love starting new projects and learning and this forum has been a great help.

RE: the navigraph soldering should be fairly easy, but my advice is to use some liquid electronics flux (not plumbing flux - it has acid that can damage the boards). The electronics stuff is brown liquid and smells like pine. Drip some on the contact on the circuit board (called a "Pad") and then heat it up and put some solder on it first, before doing anything with the wire. This is call tinning the pad. Next, out some flux on the wire and hold the soldering iron on the stripped wire and push down into the tinned pad and as soon as it melts take away the soldering ion while holding the wire steady. Should only take a couple of seconds.

RE: my Navigraph I'll hold onto it in case I ever want to go back or use it in some way, but may end up selling it since I won't use it with this system.

Quick update showing my latest - fuel and both water gauges working on my NMEA network, shown on my Garmin. Holding tanks are next!



And here's some switches - a few more to go but almost there. I have also added modes like "Bedtime" that shut everything down at once and turn on my Forward Cabin LEDs. There is a MUCH nicer interface as well but can't share it just yet, will as soon as I can.



DM me if you have any other questions, I may not have the answer but will try.

Cheers,
David

[jick]

Hi David 

Similarly fascinated by your project.  I have similarly been looking at option to automate/digitize - althought no where to the scale of your project.   Specifically looking at ...

- remote switching.  I want to be able to control each piece of equipment - radar, SiriusXM, WiFi, Cell connection, Fusio Audio,  etc etc separately - without adding more switch panels,  Llooking at Maretron and Yacht Devices.  Additionally i want to be able to switch equipment on/off from the helm on the MFD.  Expanding this to lighting would be interesting.  ALways wanted a way of being able to turn the lights on when returning to the boat at night.  All those boats out in the mooring field look the same in the dark !!!

- Monitoring tank levels on MFD.  Repeaters for the already monitored tanks is not too difficult - again considering same 2 suppliers at the moment. 

One Question for you - have you looked at tank monitoring yet ?

The area I am trying to work out is black water tanks.  Being on theGreat Lakes - black tanks have to be pumped - no dumping for 2,000 + miles !  Trying to find a suitable tank monitor that is ultrasonic or similar.  I do not think there is the access room above the tank for anything that has a probe of any kind.  Maretron have a very good one - but requires their display to program it.  More expense.  Any advice/thougghts ?

Thanks 

John 

[Don Reaves]

John -- Are you tanks plastic? If that's the case, there are a number of products with capacitive sensors that simply stick on the tank. They're not hard to locate on the web using Google search. Some are rather expensive, apparently.

Personally, I have a stainless tank with a single float-style sensor that turns on a warning light when the tank is 3/4 full. Very simple and cheap, but apparently not what you're looking for.

Don

[virtualburton]

Jan 17, 2022 21:41:56 GMT jick said:

- remote switching.  I want to be able to control each piece of equipment - radar, SiriusXM, WiFi, Cell connection, Fusio Audio,  etc etc separately - without adding more switch panels,  Llooking at Maretron and Yacht Devices.

- One Question for you - have you looked at tank monitoring yet ?

Hi John,

- your remote switching is right on point - it's great to be able to add control without adding more analog panels & switches. I'd look around as there are other manufacturers out there making products that will handle your switching for you, especially if you are looking 6 or less outputs. Siren Marine and Garmin OnDeck all offer products that will do that and more. If you wasn't more than 6 then along with Maretron check out CZone. They are more complicated but more capability to handle more loads.

- RE: Tank Monitoring yes, I installed the SCAD adhesive sensors that go on the outside of the tank. I have them working now and on my NMEA network and see them on my Garmin & Raymarine MFDs. So for tanks I have Fuel, 2x fresh water and 2x black water all on the NMEA/MFDs. As an asides since they are on NMEA I can also see those on the Siren & OnDeck systems. One word of caution - I have not had great accuracy with the SCAD sensors ever. I installed them in the fall and initially used their double tank gauge but found them to be all over the place. They are 3 wire sensors so output a voltage (like the water tanks using the Scheiber on many Jeanneaus like my 469) and just with a multimeter I find the voltage varies a lot so need to look in to it. I'm guessing it's something I've done not the gauges or tape but wanted to share since I'm still struggling with it. Here's the post where I wrote this up:

jeanneau.proboards.com/thread/9597/installed-digital-tank-gauges-odyssey

Quick update: I've finished the starboard installation and have everything working. The latest I did was programmed some group modes for easy switching. I now have:

- Light mode - turns on my salon lights, galley lights, salon and fwd cabin LEDs
- Bedtime - turns off all the above except my FWD cabin LEDs and turns on my FWD cabin lights. I shut them off with my phone or remote control when I'm in bed. Lazy!
- Onboard mode - turns on the water pump, fridge, freezer, 12v outlet and powers a fuse panel that is connected to the inside Garmin, my AIS and a few other things that need power while I am aboard.
- Day Run mode - switches on my second fuse panel that powers the 2 aft Raymarine MFDs, the autopilot, the p70 and i70
- Night Run mode - switches all of the above plus turns on my steaming lights and nav lights

I can switch all of them individually but the groups make it easier.

Soon I'll post some screenshots of the installation. We're close to announcing the new system.

John: Keep us all posted as you go forward and thanks for checking in!
David

[jick]

Jan 17, 2022 23:25:26 GMT Don Reaves said:

John -- Are you tanks plastic? If that's the case, there are a number of products with capacitive sensors that simply stick on the tank. They're not hard to locate on the web using Google search. Some are rather expensive, apparently.

Personally, I have a stainless tank with a single float-style sensor that turns on a warning light when the tank is 3/4 full. Very simple and cheap, but apparently not what you're looking for.

Don

Hi Don 

Yes the tanks are plastic - look identical to the ones shown the post David linked in his response below.

I originally was looking at stick on sensors that would do pretty much the same as your system - but was not keen on the electronics project it entailed.  In my book there is a big difference between integrating a number of modules and cobbling together a “home grown” solution from a few components.  If I get the home grown solution wrong, the risk of overheating or shorting is top of mind.  

Well let you know how i get on - although it will be a few months.  In the frozen north the boat will not go back in the water until May.  

Thanks 

John 

[jick]

Jan 18, 2022 2:51:11 GMT virtualburton said:

Jan 17, 2022 21:41:56 GMT jick said:

- remote switching.  I want to be able to control each piece of equipment - radar, SiriusXM, WiFi, Cell connection, Fusio Audio,  etc etc separately - without adding more switch panels,  Llooking at Maretron and Yacht Devices.

- One Question for you - have you looked at tank monitoring yet ?

Hi John,

- your remote switching is right on point - it's great to be able to add control without adding more analog panels & switches. I'd look around as there are other manufacturers out there making products that will handle your switching for you, especially if you are looking 6 or less outputs. Siren Marine and Garmin OnDeck all offer products that will do that and more. If you wasn't more than 6 then along with Maretron check out CZone. They are more complicated but more capability to handle more loads.

- RE: Tank Monitoring yes, I installed the SCAD adhesive sensors that go on the outside of the tank. I have them working now and on my NMEA network and see them on my Garmin & Raymarine MFDs. So for tanks I have Fuel, 2x fresh water and 2x black water all on the NMEA/MFDs. As an asides since they are on NMEA I can also see those on the Siren & OnDeck systems. One word of caution - I have not had great accuracy with the SCAD sensors ever. I installed them in the fall and initially used their double tank gauge but found them to be all over the place. They are 3 wire sensors so output a voltage (like the water tanks using the Scheiber on many Jeanneaus like my 469) and just with a multimeter I find the voltage varies a lot so need to look in to it. I'm guessing it's something I've done not the gauges or tape but wanted to share since I'm still struggling with it. Here's the post where I wrote this up:

jeanneau.proboards.com/thread/9597/installed-digital-tank-gauges-odyssey

Quick update: I've finished the starboard installation and have everything working. The latest I did was programmed some group modes for easy switching. I now have:

- Light mode - turns on my salon lights, galley lights, salon and fwd cabin LEDs
- Bedtime - turns off all the above except my FWD cabin LEDs and turns on my FWD cabin lights. I shut them off with my phone or remote control when I'm in bed. Lazy!
- Onboard mode - turns on the water pump, fridge, freezer, 12v outlet and powers a fuse panel that is connected to the inside Garmin, my AIS and a few other things that need power while I am aboard.
- Day Run mode - switches on my second fuse panel that powers the 2 aft Raymarine MFDs, the autopilot, the p70 and i70
- Night Run mode - switches all of the above plus turns on my steaming lights and nav lights

I can switch all of them individually but the groups make it easier.

Soon I'll post some screenshots of the installation. We're close to announcing the new system.

John: Keep us all posted as you go forward and thanks for checking in!
David

Thanks David - that is really useful - just what i was looking for.   Will let you know how i get on although will be few months due to the frozen lakes up here !!

Thanks 

John 

[bccoast]

Jan 7, 2022 21:04:37 GMT virtualburton said:

Hi Chris - Thanks for the update and sounds fun. I love starting new projects and learning and this forum has been a great help.

RE: the navigraph soldering should be fairly easy, but my advice is to use some liquid electronics flux (not plumbing flux - it has acid that can damage the boards). The electronics stuff is brown liquid and smells like pine. Drip some on the contact on the circuit board (called a "Pad") and then heat it up and put some solder on it first, before doing anything with the wire. This is call tinning the pad. Next, out some flux on the wire and hold the soldering iron on the stripped wire and push down into the tinned pad and as soon as it melts take away the soldering ion while holding the wire steady. Should only take a couple of seconds.

DM me if you have any other questions, I may not have the answer but will try.

Cheers,
David

Thanks David, was able to get the new display soldered in and the fit is perfect and works great! Not as nice as yours but at least have working gauges again.  Posted it in another Scheiber thread incase anyone comes across it and needs one too. 

[virtualburton]

Hi guys,

Apologies for the loooong delay. Life gets in the way and some changes with my work life resulted in me changing almost everything in my digital install, but it's even better now.

So I was being cagey about the manufacturer of the digital system I was installing because I worked at the “unnamed” company as their Product Manager for marine Connectivity. After some disagreements about how to get the product to what it needed to be, we decided to part ways so I wanted their stuff out of my boat! I decided to switch the whole system to CZone.

CZone is an established system and what we were attempting to compete with/beat. At the end of the day, I wanted something in my boat that was supported, that worked reliably and had the full digital capability I had installed already. I made the decision to rip it all out and do it again with a few CZone modules: their COI, the OI, the SI and a few switch panels. I have now replicated the system I had including:

switching of all key circuits
Modes to control multiple circuits at once (bedtime mode, chill mode, Lights on mode, running mode, night running, etc.)
Integration of 2 fresh water tanks, a fuel tank and 2 black water tanks
Integration with Victron Cerbo GX and 7” screen plus solar
Integration with Siren 3 Pro with remote switching

I have it all working now and it’s a beautiful system.

I’d like tom know what you guys are interested in seeing next?

Installation process/photos
Configuration how-tos
Features - what digital offers
Other?

Please let me know if you’re interested and I’ll do my best to post/answer questions.

Also, feel free to DM me for specific questions.

I certainly know every inch of the SO 469/479 now! If you wonder where something goes or how it’s powered let me know (except my wind instrument LOL!)

Cheers,
David

[jick]

Hi David 

Great to hear you have made so much progress.  I would be very interested in reading more about the whole process, particularly ..

- Installation process 
- positioning - where and why did you position the control units  
- the cabling process - what techniques/materials did you use to run the cables (i know - this is generic to all electrical installations in a boat - but you must have done a lot for this project so intrigued at what works)
- back up - what if it all goes wrong ( 99% certain there are readers out there saying this is way too complex for a boat - fails the KISS principle - keep it simple) 
- and maybe later configuration. 

Your system summary describes almost the same as i am planning - including tanks, Cerbo GX 

Intrigued that you picked CZone as it is the system I was looking at.  I have just purchased a Raymarine Yachtsense unit - more to combine onboard network, cell, and dockside wifi into one unit - and with Raymarine units you easily end up with 4-6 Raynet (ethernet) connected devices.  Raymarine has digital control modules that are part of this family - but still feel the CZone has more versatility.   

Thanks 
John 

[virtualburton]

I know I apologised for how long my last reply took, then I did it again!

RE: the questions above, here's my answers:

- Installation process: my approach changed along the way since initially I was installing several systems in parallel to test/compare and contrast them. In additional to switching I was doing battery monitoring and lots of other electronics. Since parting ways I have settled on Czone, Siren Marine & Victron. All this to say what I did initially was somewhat irrelevant because I was doing a lot of wiring, etc. to have multiple systems do the same thing. Once I left my former employer, I consolidated and removed some of the other systems for simplicity.

The process for somebody who wants to set up a system like this is fairly simple. The first thing you need to figure out is what circuits brackets cold loads brackets you want to control. Once you know how many of them then I can help you size what type of device you need.

What I did was created a "Load List" in Excel that I spent a lot of time on. Knowing what you are going to configure and why makes it a lot easier. A big part of it was mapping the wiring in the boat to what I wanted to switch. That's why I had so many posts last year on Jeanneau schematics. If anyone is interested in how I did this let me know and I can help. Here's what part of the spreadsheet looks like:

If you want to be able to monitor and control a small number of loads, the "Lite" systems are ideal because they are easy to install, and can integrate into existing wiring with hardly any changes. These systems could easily be installed in a weekend, and simply require interrupting the current load to one side of a relay wiring, the other side of the relay to where that load was, and then providing power, ground and signal to the relay. Most of these systems, like Garmin OnDeck, Siren Marine's Siren 3 Pro, Vesper, etc. do this the same way. Some of them also have NMEA 2000 integrations which allow them to be controlled from MFDs and share data with other devices on board.

For full digital systems like CZone, Yachtsense, Empires, etc. as I mentioned above they are much harder to install because they significantly change the boat's electrical system. Many new manufacturers are offering these systems as standard or optional equipment now and they definitely simplify the wiring because they can be installed in a distributed way; you can install a control unit near the fwd end of the boat to control domestic loads like lighting, heat, cooling, switches, etc. and several others throughout the boat. Thy are all connected to each other via NMEA 2000 or ethernet or sometimes both. 

Here's some of what I have set up so far, shown on my Garmin MFD:



As far as positioning, at least in the Jeanneau sailboats I am familiar with (some of the 40 - 50 foot models), the layout is similar. I showed a diagram above and most of the lighting is fed from the port side and electronics, pumps and some running switches from the Scheiber panel on the starboard side. Wiring is quite accessible as the design of cabinets was well thought out with fairly easy access to run circuits up and down the sides. The batteries, chargers and inverters are near the stern under bunks and in closets from what I have seen, but I am far from any expert on models other than my 469.

The port and starboard sides are connected via cable runs that run down the side from the port side, under the floor (deck) to the starboard side and up to the Scheiber panel. Lighting circuits seem to run all over the place, usually into the ceiling areas then daisy0chain from one picture to another. on my boat, I have installed several new light circuits because many of the lights are connected in illogical ways; for instance, the fwd head light will not work unless the galley light circuit is on, the aft cabin lights won't work unless the main salon lights are on, etc.

I also wanted finer control to be able to individual turn things on an off. For instance, the aft MFDs, autopilot, AIS and other instruments are all powered together. For example, I like to be able to turn the MFDs on without the Autopilot I'm so added, additional circuits to be able to control these devices independently. One great aspect of digital switching is adding circuits is very easy as long as you have enough availability on the control units. 

RE: where I installed the control units, on my boat I have 3. I installed one CZone Combination Output Interface (COI) under the starboard aft seat. This was storage before, but has now become my switching and NMEA centre. I installed a second COI on the port side under the settee and a Signal Interface (SI) there as well that reads the analog tank inputs for the fuel and waste water tanks. The water tanks were wired to the starboard side so they are connected to the COI on the starboard side. 

The starboard COI under the aft nav station/desk seat. I use this controller to switch power to each of those Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks. That way 1 output controls several. the one of the right (outboard) side powers all of the "onboard" electronics, like the MFD in the salon as well as the MFD I installed beside my bed in the forward cabin (for anchor watching and switching mainly). The left one powers the "running" electronics - aft MFDs and other instruments, etc. that I want on while running, but not at anchor or at the dock. I powered both of these through 60 amp relays so they can handle the load of all of the electronics. I switch these relays with the digital output of the COI. I also added a lot of new stuff that is NMEA 2000 so needed to add 2 of those 8 position NMEA hubs.



The CZone SI:



I also have another controller which I intend to install aft for more loads in the future, and I have 2 CZone switch panels - a 12 position which I have own the port side electrical panel (near the stereo) and a 6 position that is in the cockpit area mounted to the table base so I can turn on Nav lights etc. I can do this from the ray marine MFDs too, but sometimes like a physical switch.

My latest addition is the Victron Cerbo GX and BMV-712 battery monitoring system. I had a Simarine system but removed it after I left my previous employer because although the UI looked really nice, the system didn't;t work that well, especially the mobile app. not was terrible. I added a 7" screen for the Cerbo and connected it to their online "VRM" portal. It is also connected to the Raymarine ethernet on my boat, so I have the battery and solar information on all of the screens. The Victron stuff (IMHO) is excellent. It works very well and they have thought of everything. I added 200w of Solar this summer and a 50a MPPT controller and it is all just6 plug and play and works beautifully. I recommend, for whatever that's worth!

The Cerbo GX - not a great photo, sorry!



RE: what I used for cabling, first off I only ever use tinned marine wire. It is available any any good marine store, and online at WestMarine or Fisheries Supply and I'm sure many others. It costs a bit more but has better corrosion resistance. I also only us e marine grade adhesive shrink crimp connectors. it is critical to buy the correct ratcheting crimpers but once you have them you're set. You simple crimp the right size and type of connector then heat shrink it and it is permanent. The other thing I splurged on was a Dymo labeller that can print on heat shrink. This creates perfect labels quickly, and despite having a great tool, I must admit, I am delinquent in, sometimes rushing in, not putting them on, which is pure stupidity on my part!

What I typically do is, if I'm running a whole set of wires, for instance, all of the gauge wires to the sea zone unit, I will run all the wires and cut them all to length, then label them, and put the connecters on and heat shrink everything, then I take that whole bundle as a unit and put split loom on it, and tape the ends sort doesn't slide around. What's this is done then you end up with almost a cable for each function, like tanks, lights, alternator, etc. so it makes it fairly easy to find in the future. Again, mine should be a lot tidier, but because I've done it, then uninstalled and had to redo a bunch of it. It's not as nice as it originally was. I keep telling myself that I'll get back to tidying it up some more in the future, but I always seem to have some new job to do.

Here's the OI connections:

Regarding back up, all of the full digital systems, have the ability to manually move a fuse over to override the digital function. If you have a circuit that won't actuate. From time to time, I have had goofy things happen, usually, though it's because I made a change in the configuration and then loaded it, but that caused a problem. One of the things I did in both the previous system plus C zone was defaulted which circuit should be on when the system re-powers. That way, if something goes wrong, all I have to do is tripped the breaker to the control unit and turn it back on, and those circuits will come back on. For instance, the power to my MFD's so I can actually use the switches and interact with the system, but also things like the bilge pump, the refrigerator and freezer and certain light circuits. No matter when I seem to be working on these things are always seems to be dark. Sometimes I have to think ahead about when I'm going to do stuff. Otherwise I'll be sitting in the dark!

Re: the comment "what if it all goes wrong ( 99% certain there are readers out there saying this is way too complex for a boat - fails the KISS principle - keep it simple)" I totally agree and had the same concern. I think the easiest way to answer that is it depends on your comfort level and what you consider to be difficult or easy. If something goes wrong, and I have to bypass one of the control units that's relatively trivial for me, so I'm not too concerned about it, especially considering they all have the fuse override. However, if you're not the type of person that works on your own boat, or have a limited electrical knowledge, then, for sure have someone install it for you and set up the configuration and have everything working. That said, once the system is operational, there's really very little to go wrong, although Famous Last Words, I'm sure! I've had the system installed on my boat now for over a year and have not had a single problem with anything that I didn't cause. It's usually when I'm trying to tweak stuff, for instance, when I decided to change my anchor light switch so that it would automatically turn off after 10 hours because I kept forgetting to shut my anchor light off. I managed to accidentally change something else, and then had to go back to a previous configuration and reboot. As we say in the software world, PEBCAK! (Problem Exists Between Chair and Keyboard!).

Here's what the fuses look like (screenshot from CZone manual). If a circuit doesn't work, you just move the fuse to the top position to override it:



Regarding configuration, there are a lot of things to know, and each company has their own tools. One of the reasons I chose CZone is they've been around for a long time and they have a pretty good website with good support. I find their manuals to be very simple and complete. That said, I'm a big RayMarine fan and think their Yachtsense product looks fantastic. I've also used Garmin OnDeck and tested it. It is harder to configure, but Garmin stuff all works together very well. My only challenge with Garmin is it's intended to be on a boat where everything is Garmin and they don't play well with others sometimes. Mind you none of them do, they all want you to buy all of their stuff however, some of them are a bit more interoperable. For instance, with Raymarine you can turn the DHCP server off on the MFDs, whereas on Garmin you can't, which means devices can't co-exist on the same ethernet because they have different subnets. Things like that are totally avoidable and when we consider that nowadays, electronics on boats mostly connect through ethernet just like home computers and networks, so there's no reason they can't co-exist, but they choose not to. 

Another thing I just finished recently was replacing all of my AGM batteries with two new 360 amp-hour lithium ion batteries totalling 720ah. I also installed a new 250 amp Balmar alternator, their voltage regulator, tach synchronizer and their Bluetooth interface. It's a great system and the batteries charge very quickly, but the cost is enough to make your eyes bleed! If I wasn't in the industry, I would never have been able to afford it. 

One of the 2 batteries while installing them under the starboard aft berth:



and the Balmar alternator (first belt they sent me was too short!:







If anyone has any questions, please feel free to DM me, or post them here, and I will try to respond. I do get notifications when the thread gets updated so we'll keep my eye out.

As far as the thread goes, I'm not sure what else to add to it, so will probably end it, but rest assured I'm quite happy to help people who have questions about this stuff so don't be shy about reaching out. I have received so much help from so many people on this forum that I don't feel I'll ever be able to repair it so by all means ask.

I'm currently still dealing with my broken wind instrument. It turns out one off the pins that connects between the wand and base at the top of the mast was broken. I tried replacing the wand, but it didn't work, so I'm waiting for the new base and cable to arrive. I had the Rigger up there because there's no way I'm climbing up, and when he was there, he noticed that my upper spreader on the starboard side is about 8 inches high and the one on the port side is about 3 inches low. This is no good so I'm in no sail mode until I can get that wind instrument and he can go up there to install it then he's going to take the tension off the rig to straighten the spreaders out. He figures it happened when they were stepping the mast because the spars are under so much tension he said it's unlikely it could have been moved so much. As a new sailor, it all concerns me but hopefully he gets it sorted!

Safe boating!
David


Edit: numerous typos 

[eoin2020]

Jan 2, 2022 19:50:24 GMT virtualburton said:

Hi guys,

............. to convert the boat from analog wiring to digital..........

Wow absolutely fantastic thread, thanks for documenting it and sharing it with us mere mortals😂

Your knowledge is way past my pay grade, but as an electronics hobbyist and enthusiast and as a challenge building my own CNC milling  system. I have a basic understanding of IC's, PLC's, Relays, MOSFETs etc. But you make it easier as I can follow your explanations and thanks for your easy flow of text. You'd make a good lecturer or college teacher.

Well done best of luck and thanks again for sharing👍