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Post by earnric on Sept 3, 2021 1:25:35 GMT
Hum... it won't stay down when we put the winch handle in... take a lot of pressure to keep the handle in!
Thanks for the info!
Rick
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Post by sitara on Sept 3, 2021 2:22:40 GMT
Does your winch handle have a locking mechanism to hold it in place?
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Post by earnric on Sept 3, 2021 10:58:38 GMT
It does have the lock at the top of the handle, but the force from the PIN seems to not allow it to seat all the way in and it is forced out unless I hold it down.
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Post by puravida35 on Sept 3, 2021 16:06:08 GMT
I would contact Harken support. I had issues with my electric winch and they were very prompt and helpful.
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Post by Mistroma on Sept 3, 2021 20:24:58 GMT
The pin can sometimes be quite hard to push down but the locking section on the bottom of most handles does still hold it down. I think that I mentioned in an earlier post that it might be stuck down when the motor was running with no winch rotation.
I know that I undo the screw over the pin when dismantling for maintenance. The screw sometimes works loose again in use and I tighten it sometimes. I has been a few years now, due to Covid, but I seem to remember the handle being difficult to lock down once. I think the screw was very loose and had risen up enough to stop the handle seating properly. My memory isn't clear in this as it would have been about 4-5 years ago.
I have been meaning to make up a tool to make it easier to tighten the screw. Basically a long piece of stainless with a notch in the end. I currently use a screwdriver that fits one side fairly well and can be pulled around to tighten the screw.
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Post by NZL50505 on Sept 3, 2021 20:50:53 GMT
Agree the smart thing to do at this stage would be to get some tech support.
And not be tempted to do what I would do which is get some thin lube, a piece of timber and a hammer and try knocking the pin into submission! 😊
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Post by earnric on Sept 6, 2021 10:51:05 GMT
I disassembled the hot Winch and surprisingly the grease was fine. However many of the top screws were very loose. Since this Winch is going to be manual for a while I removed the rod that you have to push down with the Winch handle. Since I've disconnected power to the motor it's safe.
This inspired me to check the other winches and sure enough all had loose screws! At least I caught it early.
Now I just have to find someone to replace all the rubber switch covers and repair my overheated motor.
Rick
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Post by NZL50505 on Sept 7, 2021 5:57:31 GMT
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Post by earnric on Sept 8, 2021 0:12:31 GMT
Those are them! I just bought the rubber covers, but I think I need at least 1-2 new actual switches. These are cheaper than here in the US! Harken winch switch
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Post by NZL50505 on Sept 8, 2021 0:57:46 GMT
I bought these last year to replace all my switches and got them delivered here to NZ. Pretty cheap but switches are perfect. Like you I only needed the rubbers but easier (and nicer looking) to replace whole switch and not expensive. More plastic I know but that’s the way of the world these days isn’t it…
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Post by earnric on Sept 9, 2021 21:07:04 GMT
I bought these last year to replace all my switches and got them delivered here to NZ. Pretty cheap but switches are perfect. Like you I only needed the rubbers but easier (and nicer looking) to replace whole switch and not expensive. More plastic I know but that’s the way of the world these days isn’t it… Very true... Do you know of a video that show's how to replace these switches for Harken winches? I can't find one... which I find amazing! Thx,
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joezo
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by joezo on Sept 11, 2021 14:10:18 GMT
Hello I know this a a late response. remove the winch, remove the electric motor , bring the motor to an electric shop that specializes in electric motors and reconditioning. Mine was almost seized, the shop cleaned and reconditioned, took less than 2 hours , cost about $120. replace the gear oil in the casing . Verify all the electrical connections and the solenoids. Mine works perfectly now. Cheers Joseph
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Post by earnric on Sept 18, 2021 10:42:11 GMT
Hello I know this a a late response. remove the winch, remove the electric motor , bring the motor to an electric shop that specializes in electric motors and reconditioning. Mine was almost seized, the shop cleaned and reconditioned, took less than 2 hours , cost about $120. replace the gear oil in the casing . Verify all the electrical connections and the solenoids. Mine works perfectly now. Cheers Joseph Thanks Joseph, I'm doing just that. Pasco Battery warehouse here in Annapolis is working on it now!! Thx,
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Post by earnric on Jan 8, 2022 15:24:20 GMT
So to follow up on my electric winch issue. I had Pasco Battery here in Annapolis fix the winch. The guy did a great job and I have a working winch motor for < $100. He had to replace the casing, but the rest of the winch motor was fine (we demo'd it on his bench power supply at the Pasco). I think the orig failure was due to the deck switch. The rubber cap that covers the switch was very worn/stiff and I think it engaged the switch and ran the winch until it over-heated and failed. I've replaced the rubber cover and will confirm the switch works. I believe I can do this with my multimeter while someone presses the button on deck. Now I need to ensure the control box/solenoid is working. I plan to just hook up the battery and assuming the switch on deck is fine I'll see if the output posts generate the appropriate voltage when engaged. I assume this is 12V? Not sure... Assuming the control box/solenoid is ok I'll re-install everything. The other question I have, there is some rust around the winch bearing. I'll clean this up but should I put some grease around this area? Thoughts? Also, is there a good way to stop water coming down the long pin that disengages the winch when the hand crank is inserted? I think this is where water can ingress (its essentially a hole right down the middle of the winch). Maybe a rubber o-ring on the rod? A bit of grease? I don't know... but seems like that's the most likely cause of this rust. Thanks, Rick
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Post by puravida35 on Jan 8, 2022 16:14:16 GMT
There should be rubber O-ring for the safety rod. At least that’s what I’ve found on my electric winch. Harken would probably send you one. They have sent me small parts in the past for free or the cost of postage.
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Post by earnric on Jan 8, 2022 18:42:13 GMT
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Post by earnric on Jan 9, 2022 13:50:52 GMT
FYI, I was able to get a bunch of rubber o-rings at true value here in annapolis. They have an awesome collection of nuts bolts washers etc, and they had varying sizes o-rings -- including very tiny ones that I'm sure will fit. I just stopped by and bought three different small ones to see which one is the snugest.
So your local true value is a good source for this kind of stuff!
Rick
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Post by earnric on Jan 9, 2022 20:21:28 GMT
So, I want to test the harken control box/solenoid and wanted to run my thoughts by everyone. I figured I can hook the black pos cable (coming from the batter and winch breaker) to the center terminal on the control box... and connect both pos and neg power to the controller/switch side of the box with the small wires. I'll have to use a jumper for the neg or tape them together (small red to battery cable red). Then when my partner presses the switch on deck, I should see a voltage between either the left-center or right-center pins... correct? Thanks... I'm always nervous about electricity! Rick
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