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Post by Trevor on Feb 15, 2009 3:49:47 GMT
Hello, I have a SO36i which is just over 12 months old and it has a bad leak with water coming through the starboard chain-plate entry. It is not really a "chain-plate" as such, but more an entry for the shrouds to come through the deck and be secured to another stainless rod into a strong point bonded into the hull. Editor: Replacement photo Does anyone know how to attack sealing this through deck fitting? I cannot get to it from underneath as the securing rod goes through a timber panel that is very securely screwed and stuck with sealer. The stainless cover over the entry holes shown in the photo makes it hard to see what is happening on the topside of the deck. The cover seems to be sealed onto the deck so prior to me forcing things and cutting through sealer I thought I would just seek some advice first. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Regards, Trevor
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Post by MalcolmP on Feb 15, 2009 8:13:56 GMT
Hi Trevor
Bad news indeed. If it was me, firstly I would do a temporary fix to seal from the outside to stop or limit the amount of water getting into the boat, even it is unsightly eg using polythene and tape or mastic etc
Then I would get your agent to discuss with Jeanneau France, this should be rectified by them, if not I would get a yard to do the work and claim on insurance
I think if you start doing things yourself there is a risk you will be accused of making the problem worse
But appreciate as your boat is remote may not be as simple as my UK perspective
Malcolm
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Post by Trevor on Feb 16, 2009 6:57:46 GMT
Thanks Malcolm, I guess that is right. I don't know how prevalent this problem is and if everyone just have to seal them once a year or if it is something you never have to really worry about. The problem is when water gets in it can easily damage the timber and the long term issues are of concern. The port side is OK and this water is coming in because we are having a lot of rain at the moment. It is not even the result of sailing in lumpy weather. Regards, Trev
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Post by timturner on Feb 16, 2009 10:29:54 GMT
I had a leak but on the port side. I found that some papers on the shelf above the instrument panels, had got wet with salt water. I told the agent in Plymouth and their man sorted it by re-sealing it with clear silicone sealant. Unfortunately I did not see him do it but it did the trick. I imagine that he dug out the original and then refilled the space with new. If I see him in the yard, I will ask him what he did. It was well tested last year when there was a lot of sea running along the port side deck on several occasions. Tim
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Post by sailingpages on Feb 16, 2009 13:04:53 GMT
Hi Trevor, With all the rain we've had in Townsville, North Queensland, AU last week (536mm from Sunday to Saturday, yes no typo., 536 mm), we have noticed that the starboard chain-plate entry on our 36i is leaking also. I don't have any solution though. We are still waiting to get our hull/deck joint repaired (different post) which will hopefully happen soon. I am interested to see that you have this chainplate entry leak too and I will enquire to our dealer about this shortly.
Regards, Geoff.
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Post by Trevor on Feb 16, 2009 22:37:56 GMT
Hi Tim,
Yes I think I can use marine sikaflex to seal the entry point but I am keen to know exactly how to lift the stainless cover from the entry point. It is a very nice cover and if you need to know a trick to get it off I would hate to damage it because I am not aware of how it is fastened. I have a feeling it is only stuck down with sealer.
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by Trevor on Feb 16, 2009 22:38:31 GMT
Thanks Geoff,
I have been wondering how you are progressed with the very serious leaks along your hull/ deck joins. I guess my problem is minimal compared to that one. I have been watching the floods particularly in Ingham the past couple of weeks. You guys have had some serious rainfall alright. It is a pity some of it cannot be redirected to the bush-fires in Victoria.
I would be keen to know the outcome of your chain-plates and the deck/hull joint leak inquiries.
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by Trevor on May 10, 2009 11:06:40 GMT
Dear all,
The agent got a professional to resolve this issue. The timber inside the cabin was removed to gain access to the underside of the shroud entry. That involved removing some sealant sticking the timber to the underside of the deck and although I was not there at the time I cannot imagine it was an easy task. The job is not as good as the original as the timber section removed and replaced does not line up exactly with the piece that is over the galley but it is much better than water leaking everywhere.
Seems all ok now and when they were at it they re-tensioned the shrouds and inners that were getting a bit loose after a couple of thousand miles of sailing.
Good advice from Malcolm as I am very glad I did not take this one on myself. ;D ;D
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by MalcolmP on May 10, 2009 16:39:23 GMT
Hi Trevor
Very glad you have it sorted, do you think the SS cover was just held with sealant then?
Malcolm
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Post by Trevor on May 11, 2009 0:43:25 GMT
Hi Malcolm,
What I thought was a stainless cover I think is actually a very solid stainless plate. I don't really know how it is sealed but I guess when the guys went to that much trouble to get to the undeside of it, they would have used plenty of sealer to ensure it doesn't happen again.
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by j on Apr 30, 2013 10:30:21 GMT
I have just refitted our starboard chain plate fitting. It was leaking through the mounting studs. The fitting is a solid piece of stainless steel. To remove the fitting you need to remove the shrouds and the wooden panel inside the boat (to get access to the nuts) The wooden panel is attached with 4 screws and an adhesive similar to Sikaflex 291. Start by cutting the adhesive below the window (tape up all the surrounding timber in case you slip). I used a sharp knife, but it may be easier to use a soldering iron with a sharp flattened tip or a Dremel type tool. After you've cut through this lot you can remove the 4 screws and gradually cut away the rest of it. To do this I used a sharp bread knife and gradually pulled the panel down as I cut. This photo shows where the adhesive was: To allow you to remove the shrouds you need to stay the mast with your halyards. I put the main halyard on the mid ship mooring cleat and the boom topping lift on a nearby deck pad eye (I knew these fittings have large backing plates under them because I'd just installed the cleat a few months ago) When I started this job I noticed that the stanchion base next to the chain plate was leaking, so I removed the stanchion base and placed an eye nut & bolt in the hole, along with the backing plate from the stanchion. I attached the spinnaker halyard and pole topping lift to this eye nut. After this job was all done I refitted the stanchion base. Once the halyards are tensioned you can remove the shrouds. Now you can remove the chain plate fitting - Remove the split pin from the bottom of the tie rod and start undoing it, once undone push it upwards (the sealant on top of it will just push out with the tie rod) Pull the tie rod through the deck and out, put it aside. Undo the nuts under the deck. Pull the fitting off the deck ( you may need to slide a knife under it to cut it free) This is what it looks like underneath:
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Post by j on Apr 30, 2013 10:43:06 GMT
The fitting and the mounting studs had some light rust staining where it had been leaking. I cleaned up the fitting and removed the studs to clean the crud off and re do the loctite. Here's a photo of the fitting almost ready to go back on (just need to clean the excess loctite off the threads) Attachment DeletedYou can see two white circles on the bottom side of the fitting. It is sikaflex that I let cure overnight, I used it to fill the void under the stemball rigging screws. The factory used black foam/rubbery discs that seemed to hold water (You can see them in a photo above) Once you've cleaned up the old sealant and the fitting you can apply new sealant and refit everything.
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Post by j on Apr 30, 2013 10:45:32 GMT
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Post by Trevor on Apr 30, 2013 11:49:58 GMT
Hello J,
Well I didn't think I would hear any more from this old post! Although we now own an SO42DS it is good to see how to do this job. If I had seen this back when I posted this thread I probably would have tried to fix it myself!
Well done on getting in and working it all out.
Kind regards,
Trevor
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Post by j on Apr 30, 2013 14:00:10 GMT
Thanks Trevor
Hopefully the info can be of use to someone else.
A couple of things I forgot to mention: The deck is solid glass in this area, so there's no coring to worry about getting wet.
And the hardest part of the job was removing the wooden panel! It's not an ideal set up in my opinion, they should have put a hole in the wood below the fitting so that you can access and inspect the nuts easily (perhaps covered with a thin panel).
Cheers James
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Post by Trevor on May 1, 2013 1:28:57 GMT
Hi James,
Completely agree! Sometimes the decision has to be made to save dollars in the manufacturing process or make maintenance easier. In this case I think maybe the maintenance aspect was not high on the agenda. It is very difficult to tackle this job if you are not sure of how it is put together. Having said all of that, I think you do own a great yacht though as the 36i is a really great design.
Regards,
Trevor...
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Post by MalcolmP on Apr 2, 2020 10:38:58 GMT
Editor: With larger photos I have just refitted our starboard chain plate fitting. It was leaking through the mounting studs. The fitting is a solid piece of stainless steel. To remove the fitting you need to remove the shrouds and the wooden panel inside the boat (to get access to the nuts) The wooden panel is attached with 4 screws and an adhesive similar to Sikaflex 291. Start by cutting the adhesive below the window (tape up all the surrounding timber in case you slip). I used a sharp knife, but it may be easier to use a soldering iron with a sharp flattened tip or a Dremel type tool. After you've cut through this lot you can remove the 4 screws and gradually cut away the rest of it. To do this I used a sharp bread knife and gradually pulled the panel down as I cut. This photo shows where the adhesive was: To allow you to remove the shrouds you need to stay the mast with your halyards. I put the main halyard on the mid ship mooring cleat and the boom topping lift on a nearby deck pad eye (I knew these fittings have large backing plates under them because I'd just installed the cleat a few months ago) When I started this job I noticed that the stanchion base next to the chain plate was leaking, so I removed the stanchion base and placed an eye nut & bolt in the hole, along with the backing plate from the stanchion. I attached the spinnaker halyard and pole topping lift to this eye nut. After this job was all done I refitted the stanchion base. Once the halyards are tensioned you can remove the shrouds. Now you can remove the chain plate fitting - Remove the split pin from the bottom of the tie rod and start undoing it, once undone push it upwards (the sealant on top of it will just push out with the tie rod) Pull the tie rod through the deck and out, put it aside. Undo the nuts under the deck. Pull the fitting off the deck ( you may need to slide a knife under it to cut it free) This is what it looks like underneath:
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davidbht
New Member
Posts: 4
Jeanneau Model: 2010 Jeanneau 53
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Post by davidbht on Mar 29, 2022 11:13:17 GMT
hi there, I'm a new member here in the forum. I own a Jeanneau 53 which has the same chain-plate fittings as the discussion in this thread applies to. Mine don't leak yet however they do have lots of rust stains coming out the bottom off them. The rain seems to run down the shrouds, fill the ponds at the bottom in the fitting and then has no way of releasing the water which probably just seeps out under the fitting. How do other boats deal with this or are mine missing a seal somewhere? Any help greatly appreciated.
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