SO35 2003, gelcoat cracks around Harken traveller

[phezel]

Hi  all -

See the pics of some gelcoat cracks around my Harken traveller - mounted on the deck in front of the sprayhood.  They've been there since I bought the boat and had been covered with silicone, but seem to have opened up slightly more (though they are still small < 1mm).  I finally opened the ceiling panels over the galley (interior pic) - there is clearly some water  coming in - though it is more likely from the hatch cover. 

I know gelcoat cracks have been discussed before here, but I haven't seen anyone with this particular issue, nor the width that I seem to have.

Is there any way to tell whether this is structural or cosmetic - given that the fiberglass is not visible underneath?

Anyone have similar experiences? 

Any idea if the fiberglass is solid at this mounting point - and so at least I don't have to worry about a wet core? 

I'll probably rebed all the traveller hardware in this area -  though it will be some months and possibly next spring before I do (need to have some good weather). 

Many thanks in advance   -

Paul

[Tafika II]

I have not experienced anything like this on Tafika II. I would not describe them as "gelcoat cracks" and they seem to go through to the inside. This could be structural. If it were my boat, I would remove the traveler and dig out the cracked areas. If they are deep you should be able to see the damage inside. To me, (No expert) I would replace the entire mounting area on both sides and re-glass it. The lines look like it needs replacing also.

[Charlie-Bravo]

No signs of cracking on our 35 ....... yet.

What does the port side look like ?
I ask as it looks like perhaps the portside end may have loosened at some time, or somehow let go, and the main sheet then tried to peel the track upwards cracking the starboard area , given the direction of the major cracks, and probably killing the track which would have then been replaced, ..... might of been something completely different of course, who knows what happens to our boats before we get them.

However it occurred it will now need removing, investigating and the cracks grinding out to see how deep they go, prossibly all the way through, glass repair, gelcoat repair and reinforce the inside with more glass and perhaps a stainless plate or two to make it really strong, I feel it is likely to be solid glass at that point, but someone might say otherwise. New balls and a nice bit of proper rope, and a day or three later you will be sailing , ....... or pop to a boatyard if you are not happy with glass and gel repairs.

Our traveller was mishandled by someone ( not me) and they allowed the traveller to slam into the ends, watch out for that as it then breaks a plastic end cap on the car and all the torlon balls escape out of the car, run overboard, and you are left with yet another repair.
Dont order replacement balls from Harken as they are much much cheaper at a good bearing supplier on line.
Worth replacing the balls whilst you have the traveller off the boat, as at least one head lining has to come down to remove and replace the car end caps, and you have already done that.

CB

[renegade27]

Nothing like that on our 2006 JSO 35.

We have some fine hairline cracks in patterns around stantion areas - nothing significant as you are showing.

[phezel]

Thank you for your comments and suggestions

Port side is completely fine; nothing showing on the gel coat... The PO did say he had a mast failure - some engineer was able to demonstrate it was a manufacturing defect. It might have been related to that event...

Underneath has no sign of it showing through. Anything in the picture is probably dirt.

In any case it looks like I’ll be doing some digging and grinding to investigate. I’m guessing is prudent to dig through on bottom as well.

I will update this when I get into it - but like I said - it could be in the spring...

-Paul

[rene460]

Hi Paul, certainly I am another who has never seen anything like that.  Gel cracks that I have seen are much finer and you can’t get a thin feeler gauge blade to go in at all, and can’t easily get the available repair produces to penetrate.   It is not possible to be sure from a photo but I suspect that it is worth carefully probing those cracks with feeler gauge blades and see if you can judge the depth.  And have a really close look from the inside.  Even grind a bit out with a Dremel to make sure.  Better to repair a bit of gel coat than miss an underlying problem.  

To me, it looks like damage rather than superficial cracks, and when combined with the story of a mast failure, I am wondering if the PO had an unexpected, all standing gybe, a not unheard of cause of a mast failure, and I presume the reason boom brakes were invented.  The track and end fittings do not look original, so possibly replacements.  

If the traveller car runs virtually unrestrained across the track, it comes to a very sudden stop, with the force due not only to the momentum of the car, but also the momentum of the boom and sail with the full wind force on the sail, perhaps combined with a bit of force in the direction of the main sheet when the car stops, but mostly in the direction of the track.  Think also about the angle of the main sheet when running.  Does the damage look at all consistent with that force direction?  But it is all surmising without a close inspection.

The good thing about fibreglass is that it can be repaired.  They even take a chain saw to the hull of the maxi yachts that run in the Sydney to Hobart, and glass them back together with a bit of extra hull length.  So despite appearances, this is minor.  But the first step is a bit of exploration and a better diagnosis.

I would suggest getting a good fibreglass repairer to have a look, perhaps grind a bit away to explore the extent of the cracks.  As I understand it, the secret is to find the end of those cracks, and grind them out, as otherwise they can continue to run under the repair.  I believe drilling a small hole at the end of the crack can blunt it, so that it does not run, but you have to be sure you have the end of the crack when you drill the hole.  I would be guided by the fibreglass worker.  If you remove the track, it will make it easier to inspect, and help getting a better diagnosis.

Regarding the PO comments on the mast failure, the diagnosis might be more about the part of the rig that actually gave, than about what gave rise to the load that caused the failure.  You did not say if the mast had been replaced, but for peace of mind have a good look at the gooseneck, and make sure the pins are ok and move reasonably.

In the mean time, if you can do a quick trip to the boat, some duct tape over the cracks will limit any water ingress while you think about what to do next.  

I sincerely hope that I am over pessimistic and wrong about this, and you can come back and report it was simple to repair.  But you will sleep better if you properly investigate it.

rene460

[whitebird3800]

   We very similar gelcoat cracking on our 2003 SO--- port side near the traveler.  extensive crazing.  Seems to be only in the gelcoat not the substrate.  I opened up the cracks and filled with white marine-tex and sanded smooth.  Has stood up to a season of sailing with no re-occurrence.  As a large bonus, the marine-tex white is an exact match for Jeanneau white

[geitz]

If you're in a part of the world where it freezes, it could be caused by wet core inside the rectangular standoff that the end of the traveller is mounted on, freezing and expanding. I recored the port side of our coachroof from the traveler aft, from the underside. There was a block of wood inside the standoff and it was wet. There are some spider cracks in the gelcoat, I would think was from

the block freezing/expanding.

Mike

[phezel]

That also sounds like a possibility.  It doesn't freeze here often - and given that I live on the boat it is always above freezing inside - but it could account for the increasing size this past year.  Thanks for the tip.  Again - it will be some time before I get to dig into it...

[mthackray]

I cannot speak to the crack issue.  But, I had an interior leak in my 39i, a small drip from heavy rain near the head door.  In the process of investigating the source of the leak, I had to remove the interior ceiling panels.  The first leak turned out to be a poorly caulked screw holding the long metal support and rubber wiper supporting the companion way hatch.  But, that led to discovering another leak from the bolts and nuts holding the Harken traveller.  They were loose!  I tightened them all down, finding several to need tightening.