Check your batteries.

[Gio]

Bumping this post...

Any additional complaints from the factory set-up for the Sport/NC 895?

I wrote this in another post, the battery set-up from factory (starting + house) is really inadequate for what modern engines need and manufacturers recommend, actually it may causes issues and overall reliability concerns.


I rebuilt the battery system just few months back from delivery (engines start and house), and now i can say i have a very reliable set-up, i can feel the difference from the way the engines start vs before.

My boat came by default with 1x140ah flooded for engine start, and 1x140ah flooded for start+house, I had so many issues, including getting stranded few times as the power was not enough to start the engines.

Also, the length of battery cables (start to engine) are too long for what is recommended, too many parasitic losses and you leave to much power on the table.

I will post a diagram in one of my next posts.

So check your batteries and configuration if you have a dual engines boat...




 

[mvconstellation]

Gio, can you share a diagram or details of what you purchased?
I just took delivery of a NC895 weekender, and we did not overnight, and barely had enough power the next day.
Any advise would be appreciated!

[Gio]

Apr 27, 2022 0:46:02 GMT mvconstellation said:

Gio , can you share a diagram or details of what you purchased?
I just took delivery of a NC895 weekender, and we did not overnight, and barely had enough power the next day.
Any advise would be appreciated!

Hi there - the standard configuration from factory is not something i would trust.

I will do a proper post when i find the time, but you can refer to this tread where i posted an high level diagram:


jeanneau.proboards.com/thread/8023/895-marlin-sport-mercury-250s?page=2

Key components are all mastervolt, i also added a NMEA shunt, all connected to the chartplotter via NMEA so i can monitor exactly how much i have left in the battery house.

I have also used remote switchers to open and close the batteries, and also re-wired the engines batteries as the cables from factory are too long and you lose a lot of current only for this. I literally could not start the engines because of that...

I will post something soon, but i can tell you this is the second season using the aircon from the engines and it has been flawless....

[alexrom]

I agree with Gio (sir, please check your DMs). The original wiring could be better but it's applicable for most of the manufacturers: your boat needs you to customize it to your needs.

In my case (Miami) it's 12 months of season and regular usage. Water kept. Shore power.

I installed 2x150A LiFePo for housing. This battery bank is powered via DC-DC charger (Orion Tr 30A) from a cranking battery. Also added 'unswitched' distribution (20A) to power Victron Cerbo and Teltonika router 24/7.

2x cranking batteries just for engines and windlass. Both flooded Interstate in deep tray box just in case the poison leakage. Both monitored with Victron Smart Shunt (connected to Cerbo).

I also run a cable from the charger to the bow thruster battery (our christec has 3xAC outputs). BTW I rewired bow thruster batt too just to have Smart Shunt there.

The complication is SeaKeeper which is a beast in terms of power consumption. It has its own AGM battery that is connected via DC-DC charger (18A) to a cranking battery. During the start up it consumes ~50A and I sit in the boat for a half of an hour to compensate and charge its battery when the gyro gets on speed. I'd rather start it from my phone an hour prior (WIP).

To accommodate two additional power banks I've replaced batteries switches with ML-RBS: 1 for housing (SeaKep and House) and 1 for the engines (both cranking). While running the cables (make sure you ate your veggies and did the yoga) I left the puller cables everywhere and it paid itself when I was connecting Smart Shunts to Cerbo via VE.Direct.

The only thing I regret is Victron. I'm a software engineer and the ecosystem didn't met my expectations. All the rest is "must have" IMO.
 

TODO:
  - inverter/charger for A/C and dedicated shore power charger for housing
  - replace 2x150A LiFePo with 2x300A LiFePo
  - relocate windlass to be closer to the bowthruster and connect to the same batt
  - some smart relay that can be on/off via a)Victron b)any phone app

 

[mike855]

Has anyone here successfully done a DIY removal/replacement of their batteries on a Merry Fisher 855? On my 2016 MF 855, the access to the batteries is so space restricted it seems like they are blocked entirely from being removed unless I take out the fuel tank cover. I can't imagine they should be hard to access. Hoping for any advice, or photos of the process.

[slo0079]

Feb 15, 2019 19:45:15 GMT Capt’n Ron said:

Also, don't forget to check your bow thruster battery when its under charge and when it's not being charged.  The reason is if your bow thruster battery is being charged by the house battery charger, it could be you are experiencing voltage loss if the cable from the charger to the battery is not properly sized for the distance. If that's the case then your battery is not getting fully charged and would lead to undercharge or dead battery and could result in having to replace it sooner than needed. I believe the maximum acceptable loss is 10%, but 3% is recommended. So if your charger is putting out 14.1 volts and you have a 10% loss at the battery, that means your battery is only getting 12.69 volt charge and is right at the edge of acceptable. You can either run a bigger gage wire from the charger or add a dedicated charger for the thruster battery. This is a problem I had so a dedicated charger was added and I've not had an issue since.

What type of charger did you get for the bow thruster batteries? A simple 12v/30a is sufficient?

The surveyor indicated my set from 2019 only have 60% capacity left and I wonder if there's a charging issue since they are very seldom used.

[ihsan]

                                           In my 2020 795, based in Marmaris, Mediterranean, I have 2 house lead acid batteries 2x105, one crank lead acid battery 110 and 1 bow thruster battery 1x60amp. Engine is also able to give 50 dedicated amps while underway.  All batteries are Varta. I have 2 solar Victron panels on the cabin roof 2x175, 350 watt total, one victron solar control 100/30. There is also Victron inverter small size 500 amps, which is enough to cover tv, Beko cabin air cooler (65 watts, 220 volts) and smaller items plus is able to support alternately small size vacuum cleaner and a Turkish coffee machine which require 3-4 minutes working time. It does not support an electric kettle. Gas stove is ready to help. (If I accidentaly put the kettle  on, I reset the automatic fuse with the push of a botton). 

                                            With the above setup commissioned on the start of 2022 season, knock on wood, I am having no battery problems, at least so far, longest stay at sea was 4 days. When leaving the boat in the marina for extended periods, I remove the shore power and close all the switches and find the batteries at 13 volts upon arrival. Of course this set up may be improved ,at a later stage, particularly by adding a third house battery but it seems to meet my ends.