895 Boat Options

[pnw895owner]

I recently ordered an 895 offshore, currently scheduled for delivery from the dealer Sundance (PNW) at the end of December 2018.

Based on the postings of others in this forum I’ve tentatively selected the following factory and after-market options to add to the boat, and would appreciate any feedback:

- Premiere trim package
- Comfort package
- Garmin 7612xsv - 12 inch chartplotter / sonar
- 18xhd Garmin radar
- Garmin TR1 autopilot
- Garmin VHF & AIS radio
- Diesel Heat
- Propane cooktop
- Bottom paint
- Electric flush for head
- Overhead lockers in front cabin
- 2 Scotty pads and wiring for downriggers / pot puller.
- rocket launchers for fishing rods
- 4 cup holders added in stern table
- U-shaped seating in stern
- 3 extra 120 plugs (one in each stateroom & one added by cooktop)
- 2000W inverter
- 2 extra house batteries
- tv antenna & tv installed
- xm radio antenna
- cockpit roof and wrap around enclosure

Questions:

1)  Should I get a through hull transducer to work with the Garmin nav / fish finder for improved fishing? Currently the plan is to put in an in-hull transducer.
2) Do any of these options seem misguided, anything I should consider adding or subtracting?
3)  Where the option isn’t available from the factory, have others exclusively had their dealer add options to their boat? Has anyone used a 3rd party and what was their experience?
4)  Any other thoughts welcome. 
5)  And finally, anyone who has received a recent delivery of an 895, how much later than estimated was it?

[CruisingCascadia]

Hey pnw895owner,
We are currently having our nc895 fitted at Sundance Blaine. Since the boat hasn't been in the water yet l can't comment on what I like and don't like (yet) but I can tell you that our original delivery date was July 2. Below is our list of options and add-ons. I like your cupholder in the cockpit table idea.

Cooktop
Wallas Safeflame 88 DU (with INST. KIT )
(Share tank with diesel heater if the tank is big
enough?)


Electronics
GARMIN GPSMAP 7612xsv
Garmin CV51M-TH Transducer
GARMIN Fantom 24 Pulse Compression Dome Radar with MotionScope Technology
Garmin GHP Reactor 40 Hydraulic Autopilot with SmartPump & Shadowdrive
GARMIN  VHF 210 Marine Radio ( no AIS )
GARMIN AIS 800 (*Transceiver*)
Simarine Pico battery monitor with 300amp shunt
Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 inverter with remote

Antennas

(Separate antennas for vhf and ais to keep ais splitter signal lost to a min.)
Shakespeare Vhf 8' 6225-R Phase III Antenna
Shakespeare 6396-AIS-R Shakespeare AIS 4' Phase III Antenna
Two - Shakespeare Style 407 mounts
GPS 19x NMEA 2000 (mount on wing)
Shakespeare 5239 (mount to wing)


Mast
Seaview PMA-107-M1 10” radar mast
Seaview SP1-MOD SPREADER KIT
Wedge for radar
Attwood LED 7800 Top Light and pole
Single trumpet horn


House Power

Two - Yamaha 13.5foot ISOLATOR LEAD W/ FUSE Product Code:MAR-69JIS-0L-ED To charge house bank from engines using built in yamaha isolators (Both engines can be connected to single bank)
House Bank - Four Firefly 12V Group 31 AGM Deep Cycle Battery - 110 Ah, 600 CCA
Starting & thruster batteries stock


Other

Adjust anchor roller for our Rocna 15
2 extra 12v sockets
1 extra 120v
Propane plumbed to starboard outlet for bbq
100’ chain 300’rode
Relocate Garmin vhf mic to helm


Factory options


-Offshore package
-Premiere trim package
- Comfort package
-Legend version
- Diesel Heat
- Bottom paint
- Overhead lockers in front cabin
- U-shaped seating in stern
- cockpit roof and wrap around enclosure
-carpet
-curtains
-microwave
-search light
-front deck lounge

[pnw895owner]

Urbanerosion, Lot of great ideas in here. Thank you for sharing. A few followups... 

Wallas Safeflame 88 DU (with INST. KIT )
- Obviously a safer alternative to Propane, I'm guessing that was your primary motivation there. 
- And the dealer said they'll set it up to just pull from the same diesel tank that the diesel heater is running on? Seems like a great option. 

Garmin CV51M-TH Transducer
- Your choice here tells me that a through hull transducer is probably worth the cost / extra hole in the boat.

Simarine Pico battery monitor with 300amp shunt
Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 inverter with remote
- What's the purpose of having the Xantrex remote panel and the battery monitor? I thought that these two things (the panel and pico battery monitor) essentially did the same thing, monitor your battery consumption and remaining battery life? 

[CruisingCascadia]

Safety was one of the considerations when we decided to go with the diesel stove. No open flame, no explosive gas. We also liked the fact that we can get diesel at the fuel dock and the diesel stove won't introduce any extra humidity into the cabin. We will still carry propane but only for the bbq. The diesel unit is sealed from the interior and has a double tube intake/exhaust so smell shouldn't be an issue. The downside is that we might have to give up some drawer space.


I'm not sure if the thru hull transducer will be a everything I hope but I decided to risk it. There is actually a place on the keel specifically made for a large transducer. (See pic)

Simarine Pico I can monitor the voltage of all of the batteries and it also monitors tank levels. I don't believe that there is a fresh water tank monitor on the 895 (there wasn't one on our 855) Simarine is planning to release a n2k adapter this winter (fingers crossed) and then I can monitor all tanks and batteries from one place.

I chose the Xantrex Freedom XC because it has an 80amp charger and it says it will charge a completely dead battery. Some battery chargers won't charge unless the sense a voltage.

We are getting 4 Firefly Oasis batteries that are supposed to be able to be run down to 35% regularly with no ill effect. Normal AGM shouldn't be run below 50% on a regular basis.

I got the remote for the Xantrex so that I can shut off the inverter when I don't need it.
.
Transducer

.
.
Battery/inverter remotes

.
.
relocation of vhf mic

[pnw895owner]

Regarding battery type and capacity choice, I was wondering if I could some advice for my 895 offshore:

I'm not planning on being on the hook for extended periods, but it'd be nice to know that we can be out for 24 hours and not have to really worry about energy consumption. So with that as my target, I did some quick napkin math on energy consumption:

Estimated Battery Consumption for 24 hours
Fridge 65ah
Microwave (4 min /day) 10ah
Keurig (4 cups) 10ah
TV (4hr Football Saturday) 16ah
TV (Kids Movie) 10ah
Laptop (4 hrs) 12ah
Lights 24ah
Inverter Draw 12ah
Radio 12ah
VHF 12ah
Boat Electronics 10ah
Random / Overage 20ah


Total Battery Consumption for 24 hours on Hook  = 213 Ah

So thinking about how to select batteries around that I came up with roughly three choices:

House Battery Needs:
- 425ah (to use up to 50% of capacity) = Lead Acid / Traditional AGM ($1,000 = $250 per 100ah x 4)
- 300ah (to use up to 70% of capacity)= Firefly 12v Group 31 AGM ($1,500 = $500 per 100ah x 3)
- 300ah (to use up to 70% of capacity)= Lithium ($2,550 = $850 per 100ah x 3)


My questions are: 
- Is this roughly the analysis that you did, and how did you ultimately select the Firefly path, as opposed to Lithium or AGM?
- Obviously there are trade-offs in terms of life of the various batteries, was that a big factor?
- Does my energy consumption math above look reasonable? 

Thanks.

[lynnardm]

All

In Looking over the many options it looks like lots of great stuff but I’m wondering how Heavy these boats might be With all these options and some things like extra batteries. Consider that just full fuel in the tanks is about 1000 Pounds. And these are all offshore hulls are heavier - Jeanneau doesn’t tell us how how Much heavier. The 895 is a 26’’+ planing hull and looks like there is outfitting similar to what one might put on a larger trawler or tug. About a year ago, prior to ordering my 895, I saw an 895 in the south end of Puget Sound. She sat really low in the water in particular at the stern. I couldn’t help but wonder what was on this boat and how she performed. Weight is the enemy relative to handling, economy, etc. Does anyone have an estimate of the weight of this extent of outfitting and experience with an 895 outfitted to this extent? Early on I made a decision to be as lean as feasible relative to adding weight to the boat. The single 300 was part of this strategy.

Capt’n Lynn

[CruisingCascadia]

Pwn895owner
It is possible that you could use that much power but it sounds like a heavy power day for a 30' boat. I believe a 250Ah battery bank would be optimal for the twin Yamaha f200 outboard alternators putting out 100 amps combined. I probably went a little overboard with 4 batteries but I enjoy being on the hook.
I chose the Firefly batteries because they are supposed to stand up to more abuse the regular agm. I have killed batteries in the past (no battery monitor). I'm hoping the Firefly's will be more forgiving but I will also have a battery monitor this time.
I couldn't justify the price of lithium.

Capt'n lynn
I agree that weight can be the enemy and we have considered it. Skip actually suggested we put 100 feet of chain on our rode to even out the weight.
Keep in mind that we didn't opt for the generator package. I don't think 4 batteries will be that much heavier than the generator but I don't know the exact specs.
Might need to get a little extra bottom paint put on 🤔

[lynnardm]

Urbanerosion

That makes sense - no generator instead batteries. I’ve wondered what the weight is for the generator system. Slip actually suggested adding weight via more anchor chain? I’m curious what these batteries will weigh. Where are they being installed? Obviously mid ship is better than the stern. The area where they install
The webasco heater is actually quite large. It’s just forward of the large cockpit storage locker. Might be a great location if feasible.

Capt’n Lynn

[CruisingCascadia]

Capt'n lynn
The forward section of the locker is housing the heater, charger/inverter, and the autopilot pump. The batteries will sit further back. The batteries will weigh 282lbs - 70.5lbs each

[CruisingCascadia]

Just an follow up to this thread. Our boat is back in the shop having some deficiencies fixed. Below is a picture of the house bank installed port of the starter bank for anyone interested. Some of the (electrical) issues we found were:

- not all house loads were routed through the shunt.
- the inverter fuse was placed after inverter disconnect instead of before it.
- water heater and starter bank charger were connected through the inverter requiring us to shut off the circuit breakers when leaving shore power to avoid draining the house bank.
- the diesel heater was connected to the starter bank instead of the house bank.
- the shunt was mounted behind a battery requiring the battery to be removed if I needed to access the shunt. (The shunt is expandable so I will need access to it.)

I met Ben, the new service manager at Sundance. He seems like a good guy and I'm looking forward to seeing how he handles our issues.

[Capt’n Ron]

Definitely, all your loads were not going through the shunt so your monitor would never give you an accurate reading. 

Nice looking battery bank!  The other thing I noticed is both your negative and positive leads are coming off the same battery in the bank to your inverter. In a parallel series I’m pretty sure the negative and positive should be at the opposite ends of the series. Yours is setup like figure 2, and should be the second picture.  I’m not sure the amp loads in the diagram are correct as I pulled them from another site.

[CruisingCascadia]

You're right ragilpin. We have asked that the wiring be rectified as well. I was on a site a while back that had the below image as the optimal wiring for a four battery bank. It's an interesting setup but probably a little bit overboard.

www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

[Capt’n Ron]

Hans, that’s a pretty good site as they do a great job in explaining the battery interconnect. I’ve seen method 3 recommended from several battery monitor companies, but method 4 (your diagram) looks to be the best and makes the most sense. 

It’s unfortunate you are having to have your electrical work reconfigured.  While technically what you have works, it clearly is not current standards nor does it provide the best efficiency. I’ve had similar issues and I don’t understand why dealers don’t get electrical right!

Ron