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Post by Bora on Feb 4, 2019 23:21:13 GMT
Downloaded your manual, will check it against mine tomorrow. Thanks!
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Post by rene460 on Feb 4, 2019 23:36:02 GMT
It’s also F03 on mine, deadly consistent in page numbering, symbols precisely to the ISO code, but frustrating to read as you need so much cross referencing to understand what is going on. But it’s all there, worth persisting. I have two copies of mine, so I mark up one with notes and changes, plus the PDF if I ever need to reprint. I would not even think about trying to trace anything from the PDF. My mind does not work that way. Several pages spread out open at the same time helps, and that “quality time” I mentioned. I can understand your frustration, but hang in there with the complete book in front of you.
You picture looks like part of F16 in mine, and the bit to the left of what you have shown is the bit you need if it is the same as mine. F16 is titled 12 V Electrical schematic, though I see your picture is labelled 12 V Optional.... Perhaps a different page.
rene460
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Post by Bora on Feb 5, 2019 6:20:30 GMT
Different numbering on my one. I’ll try Jeanneau again for a copy of the 469 wiring diagrams, I got a hold of the 479’s wiring diagram from somewhere but they should be the same document.
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Post by Mistroma on Feb 5, 2019 10:23:48 GMT
Different numbering on my one. I’ll try Jeanneau again for a copy of the 469 wiring diagrams, I got a hold of the 479’s wiring diagram from somewhere but they should be the same document. Surprise, guess where I found some manuals. I'll try to upload mine as the 42DS was missing, 469 was listed (see links below). I think the 42DS documents might have more comprehensive details on the electrical systems. I did spot that numbering on Schieber panel diagram in the 469 Owner's Manual was exactly the same as on my 42DS manual. SO 469 Owners ManualSun Odyssey 469/479 Electrical Schematics
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Post by Bora on Feb 5, 2019 10:50:54 GMT
Yip, those are the two that I have. I’ve reached out to a couple of dealers to see if they have anything further.
The ones you gave the links to yesterday will certainly help.
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Post by Syrah on Jun 15, 2019 11:23:15 GMT
I have the same issue as the original poster. I get high voltage warnings independently from engine, solar and wind. All three have their own control circuit. This made me think it can’t really be a problem with all three controllers. In my case, when the Scheiber panel shows 14.9 volts, the voltage input on the back of the panel is showing a lower value. Consequently, I am regularly getting a false high voltage alarm. I see a lot of people reporting inaccurate display of voltage for this panel, either high or low. I also see a lot of questions about being able to adjust the display on the panel. This section of the panel just measures inputs and provides outputs to the screen and alarms. There is a link to the operation of it on this thread. Domestic battery voltage inputs are the red and black wires going into the three wire connector on the back. I plan to try fitting the following device in line with these red and black wires Description 3A DC to DC Voltage Adjustable Step-Down Power Module - Green Product Description: Widely used in DIY portable power, monitoring power, toy car power and communication power supply. Input voltage:4.5V~28V. Output voltage:0.8V~20V. Output current:3A (max). Efficiency:96%. Output:<30mV. The switching frequency:1.5MHz (highest), typical 1MHz. Working temperature:-45~+85'C. Model:4R7 1121 The cost of this device is around 1 dollar. You can find it easily by searching for 4R7 1121 The small potentiometer on it appears to be able to adjust the output voltage to be either increased or decreased (trimmed) relative to the input voltage. To me, this seems to be a way to adjust the displayed value on the panel, and avoid a false trigger of the alarm. Can anyone see any issues with this fix? Regards Wayne
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Post by Syrah on Jun 15, 2019 23:23:45 GMT
Not sure this particular step down power device is the right thing as it appears to regulate (hold) the output voltage. What I think this needs a simple circuit to adjust output voltage relative to the input voltage (i.e. trim the voltage coming in to adjust the meter)
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Post by Syrah on Aug 4, 2019 2:44:50 GMT
I think I solved this problem. The volt meter on my panel reads about 0.5 Volts higher than actual voltage. I confirmed this on the back of the panel and at the domestic batteries for a range of different voltages. When the charging device (alternator, solar regulator, wind regulator or battery charger) is running in stage 1 (bulk) charging mode the meter got up to a voltage that was just higher than the alarm trigger voltage, and the alarm kept going off. This is somewhere around 14.8 Volts on the meter, when the real voltage was only around 14.3 volts. I cut the red wire that is the input for domestic batteries (and power for the board) and added a 1N4007 diode at this point. The diode only works one way, so make sure the silver band on it is on the side closest to plug 2 on my diagram. I covered the diode with shrink wrap to protect it. The voltage drop from the diode appears to have dropped the displayed Voltage by ~0.25 Volts, which appears to be just enough to avoid the alarm trigger. No other performance of the voltage measuring board appears to have been affected. See diagram below. You can completely isolate the red wire by unplugging plugs 1 and 2.
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Post by sitara on Aug 4, 2019 22:10:17 GMT
Very neat solution Syrah.
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Post by rocket on Jun 1, 2020 9:15:31 GMT
Having all sorts of alarms all the time and also having the LCD readout fade away, I was close to getting a new LCD-Alarm panel at 800 euro´s or so. Then I found out that when you pulled the plug of the power feed from the LCD panel to the motherboard the thing would re/set it self. I bought a micro switch for 10 euro and wired it between the red wire of the power feed. little hole in the panel and now I have reset and off button. It will not cure the ever present aillments of the panel but at least you can shut it up and the LCD readout works fine again. Had this mod for 3 years now. Thank you DeepBlue for your advice. Fixed my alarm going off incessantly for no quantifiable reason (other than a poor choice of monitoring by Jeanneau) with an OZ$8 LED switch
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Post by 1boatingelectrican on Sept 24, 2020 5:04:27 GMT
Fuel level issues on Scheiber-panel (Navigraph).
The panel shows empty tank, so we measures the level-sensor (measured 180Ohm). Tested the cabling to the panel. Connected the two wires at the sensor to simulate 0-ohm. Even connected minus directly to the signal-input on the panel, to simulate 0-ohm without the original wiring. But either way there is no change in the display. It still shows "empty/spare tank".
Voltage measurement on the wires to the sensors (With the sensor disconnected) showd 0,02, with the sensor connected 0,13V (Should be 3V?).
The sensor have been taken up, and the resistance changes when moving the floater.
Has anyone been having the same problem? The easy answer to our problem is ofcourse to change the Navigraph PCB-board. But the rest of the functions on the board are ok. It is only the fuel level that has this problem.
Hope anyone have had the same problem, and know what more we can do to find this issue.
Thanks.
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Post by Mistroma on Sept 27, 2020 23:17:07 GMT
I built a replacement display from scratch a few years ago but don't have all my documentation to hand. Your figures sound about right when you say 0.02V for a short without the sensor and 0.12V with the sensor connected. The manual says you get 3V max but actual with sensor varies between 0.12V (empty) and 1.96V full. It sounds as if you tried joining connector (in the manual) to earth and it read empty. I think that was a good idea to exclude the rest of the wiring but an empty reading is what I would expect with a dead short. If you put a resistor into the circuit then you should get a reading. You could try a few resistors or a variable potentiometer to test a few resistances (e.g. 160, 130, 100 Ohms). It might be easier to do it at the sensor connections initially and I suspect that will work. I think the voltage divider I built gave about 2V using 160 Ohms and 1.6V with 100 Ohms. These related to a tank which was approx. 100% and 60% full. If the display shows a different level with each resistor then I'd say the problem lies with the sensor. You said that sensor resistance did vary with arm movement and I assume it was in the range 0-180 Ohms with a fairly steady change. It might be an intermittent fault if that's how you tested it. I think that mine used to fail sometimes and then work again without warning. I assume you already have the manual for the display but have put a copy on my web-site in case you don't have it already. mistroma.com/Manuals/41.440A2.00NavigraphV1_0GB.pdf
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Post by epernay on Dec 23, 2020 8:03:54 GMT
I have been experiencing incorrect low voltage warnings on our Scheiber gauge on our 45DS and had decided not to do anything about it except to turn the alarm off as we have a Victron battery gauge which shows us the correct reading.I have previously read somewhere that you could send the gauge back to Scheiber for repair but in researching this I found that you could also get a complete new gauge from a company called Marinebeam (https://store.marinebeam.com/scheiber-navigraph-tank-monitor-replacement-pcb/) if anyone is interested.
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Post by Chris Meyer on Apr 20, 2021 19:38:55 GMT
Having all sorts of alarms all the time and also having the LCD readout fade away, I was close to getting a new LCD-Alarm panel at 800 euro´s or so. Then I found out that when you pulled the plug of the power feed from the LCD panel to the motherboard the thing would re/set it self. I bought a micro switch for 10 euro and wired it between the red wire of the power feed. little hole in the panel and now I have reset and off button. It will not cure the ever present aillments of the panel but at least you can shut it up and the LCD readout works fine again. Had this mod for 3 years now. Thank you DeepBlue for your advice. Fixed my alarm going off incessantly for no quantifiable reason (other than a poor choice of monitoring by Jeanneau) with an OZ$8 LED switch What is the switch used labeled 'auxiliary'? We have the same on our 389, but the manual does not explain what it is for.
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Post by Mistroma on Apr 20, 2021 22:02:09 GMT
The auxiliary switch is used for "optional equipment". I think it has a 10A trip and can be used for a wide range of things. e.g. Powering plotter, VHF, etc.
The Scheiber display also references auxiliary but this is for a 3rd battery e.g. Bowthruster, windlass, winch etc. (ours is connected to the bowthruster battery).
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Post by sailingabe41ds on Apr 21, 2021 3:46:47 GMT
In my 2015 41DS the auxiliary switch is pre wired for an additional wine cooler or freezer that sits under the chart table. I tapped into it for a cell phone booster.
Abe
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