It’s also F03 on mine, deadly consistent in page numbering, symbols precisely to the ISO code, but frustrating to read as you need so much cross referencing to understand what is going on. But it’s all there, worth persisting. I have two copies of mine, so I mark up one with notes and changes, plus the PDF if I ever need to reprint. I would not even think about trying to trace anything from the PDF. My mind does not work that way. Several pages spread out open at the same time helps, and that “quality time” I mentioned. I can understand your frustration, but hang in there with the complete book in front of you.
You picture looks like part of F16 in mine, and the bit to the left of what you have shown is the bit you need if it is the same as mine. F16 is titled 12 V Electrical schematic, though I see your picture is labelled 12 V Optional.... Perhaps a different page.
Different numbering on my one. I’ll try Jeanneau again for a copy of the 469 wiring diagrams, I got a hold of the 479’s wiring diagram from somewhere but they should be the same document.
Surprise, guess where I found some manuals. I'll try to upload mine as the 42DS was missing, 469 was listed (see links below). I think the 42DS documents might have more comprehensive details on the electrical systems. I did spot that numbering on Schieber panel diagram in the 469 Owner's Manual was exactly the same as on my 42DS manual.
I have the same issue as the original poster. I get high voltage warnings independently from engine, solar and wind. All three have their own control circuit. This made me think it can’t really be a problem with all three controllers. In my case, when the Scheiber panel shows 14.9 volts, the voltage input on the back of the panel is showing a lower value. Consequently, I am regularly getting a false high voltage alarm.
I see a lot of people reporting inaccurate display of voltage for this panel, either high or low. I also see a lot of questions about being able to adjust the display on the panel.
This section of the panel just measures inputs and provides outputs to the screen and alarms. There is a link to the operation of it on this thread.
Domestic battery voltage inputs are the red and black wires going into the three wire connector on the back. I plan to try fitting the following device in line with these red and black wires
Description 3A DC to DC Voltage Adjustable Step-Down Power Module - Green Product Description: Widely used in DIY portable power, monitoring power, toy car power and communication power supply. Input voltage:4.5V~28V. Output voltage:0.8V~20V. Output current:3A (max). Efficiency:96%. Output:<30mV. The switching frequency:1.5MHz (highest), typical 1MHz. Working temperature:-45~+85'C. Model:4R7 1121
The cost of this device is around 1 dollar. You can find it easily by searching for 4R7 1121
The small potentiometer on it appears to be able to adjust the output voltage to be either increased or decreased (trimmed) relative to the input voltage. To me, this seems to be a way to adjust the displayed value on the panel, and avoid a false trigger of the alarm.
Not sure this particular step down power device is the right thing as it appears to regulate (hold) the output voltage. What I think this needs a simple circuit to adjust output voltage relative to the input voltage (i.e. trim the voltage coming in to adjust the meter)
The volt meter on my panel reads about 0.5 Volts higher than actual voltage. I confirmed this on the back of the panel and at the domestic batteries for a range of different voltages.
When the charging device (alternator, solar regulator, wind regulator or battery charger) is running in stage 1 (bulk) charging mode the meter got up to a voltage that was just higher than the alarm trigger voltage, and the alarm kept going off. This is somewhere around 14.8 Volts on the meter, when the real voltage was only around 14.3 volts.
I cut the red wire that is the input for domestic batteries (and power for the board) and added a 1N4007 diode at this point. The diode only works one way, so make sure the silver band on it is on the side closest to plug 2 on my diagram. I covered the diode with shrink wrap to protect it.
The voltage drop from the diode appears to have dropped the displayed Voltage by ~0.25 Volts, which appears to be just enough to avoid the alarm trigger. No other performance of the voltage measuring board appears to have been affected.
See diagram below. You can completely isolate the red wire by unplugging plugs 1 and 2.
Having all sorts of alarms all the time and also having the LCD readout fade away, I was close to getting a new LCD-Alarm panel at 800 euro´s or so. Then I found out that when you pulled the plug of the power feed from the LCD panel to the motherboard the thing would re/set it self. I bought a micro switch for 10 euro and wired it between the red wire of the power feed. little hole in the panel and now I have reset and off button. It will not cure the ever present aillments of the panel but at least you can shut it up and the LCD readout works fine again. Had this mod for 3 years now.
Thank you DeepBlue for your advice. Fixed my alarm going off incessantly for no quantifiable reason (other than a poor choice of monitoring by Jeanneau) with an OZ$8 LED switch