psousa
Junior Member
Posts: 17 
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Post by psousa on Mar 18, 2018 17:42:34 GMT
Well, I’ve reached a great topic about boat’s fridge problems here jeanneau.proboards.com/thread/1623/problems-frigoboat-danfoss-fridge but seems it’s closed. Maybe to old but actual, I guess. I followed the instructions on the thread and installed the led because I can’t get my fridge to work these days: So now I have one flash or permanente led on. 1 flash every 4 seconds means electrical issues (as per topic I mentioned). Before, I have 12,8v on the display and the led flashes once every 4 seconds immediactly after turn on the fridge system. Today, after a short trip outside with only engine (no sails mounted yet since is still very wet here, maybe next month) I’ve got 13v on the display and the led keeps on for a while. Eventually it comes flashing once every 4 seconds but I turn the fridge system of and on again after some time and some behavior happens (led steady on). What does this means? I cant find permanent led on on the topic I mentioned. Only no led or flashes. Pictures of led and voltage panel (vdo): ibb.co/cf0Zcxibb.co/mytnxx |
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Post by Trevor on Mar 18, 2018 23:18:04 GMT
Hello Psousa, You have found the most epic post of all time by our friend sailbleu, who is well known for his incredible tenacity and engineering skills. Refrigeration is something that I need to call in the professionals on because the gas can only be provided to a licensed tradesman (in Australia anyway) so for me it is difficult to go beyond the repair level of basic electrical diagnosis and repair. Sailbleu on the other hand finds ways to repair or build just about anything!  Perhaps this information may help with the LED sequence you mentioned. www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/index.php/blog/177-danfoss-secop-compressor-fault-codes-explained.htmlGood luck with it. Regards, Trevor |
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psousa
Junior Member
Posts: 17
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Post by psousa on Mar 20, 2018 8:54:13 GMT
LED lit continuously: If you see that the LED is lit continuously, i.e. not flashing, then there is a problem either with the electronic controller, the connection of the LED, or your eyesight. I guess it’s my problem! I mean, I hope so otherwise it would be a bank issue since I connected it directly to the bank (bypassing current permanent wire connection) and the problem was the same. If my bank has 10 volts spikes when showing 13 volts... I guess something is wrong with it. Anyway I’ve ordered a aftermarket controller from UK. I’ll update the post if it works. Cheers! Hello Psousa, You have found the most epic post of all time by our friend sailbleu, who is well known for his incredible tenacity and engineering skills. Refrigeration is something that I need to call in the professionals on because the gas can only be provided to a licensed tradesman (in Australia anyway) so for me it is difficult to go beyond the repair level of basic electrical diagnosis and repair. Sailbleu on the other hand finds ways to repair or build just about anything! Perhaps this information may help with the LED sequence you mentioned. www.coastalclimatecontrol.com/index.php/blog/177-danfoss-secop-compressor-fault-codes-explained.htmlGood luck with it. Regards, Trevor |
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Post by rc sail on Mar 20, 2018 17:54:00 GMT
PS-I know how frustrating the refrig units can be.
Do you have same symtoms, appears low voltage to controller, when connected to shore power and battery charger on?
You seem to indicate above you rewired battery to controller. Check for possible inadequate wire size to get
needed voltage to controller (13 volts at battery but 9 volts at controller).
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psousa
Junior Member
Posts: 17
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Post by psousa on Apr 11, 2018 17:41:25 GMT
It would be nice to update the other thread because I was wasting a lot of time with frustrating tests! Even connecting directly to the battery to avoid any low peak voltage. Because the controller show 1 flash every 4 seconds...
At the end it was a controller malfunction because I bought a new one and now everything is working ok. So... don't take the led test as a Bible!
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Post by Trevor on Apr 12, 2018 11:17:31 GMT
Ahaaa, Well done psousa!!
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raythesailor
Junior Member
Posts: 12
Jeanneau Model: Jen 45.2,
Yacht Name: Josephine
Country: British
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Post by raythesailor on Apr 19, 2018 6:01:42 GMT
may not be relevant to your problems but;
I was having battery problems a few years ago and somebody suggested that i regularly inspect the fan unit on the fridge condenser.
It was very good advice as the fan blades were covered in dust and an amazing amount of fluff, which meant that the unit was having to work extra hard.
I now regularly give it a clean, which only takes a few seconds.
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psousa
Junior Member
Posts: 17
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Post by psousa on Jun 28, 2018 10:56:36 GMT
Back because I have a new issue. Suddenly my fridge circuit blew 2 10a fuses. The 1st I didn't care, just replaced it. After the second (same weekend) I was looking carefully and I found the panel showing from 8 to 30a consume when the fridge compressor is working. Moving a lot up and down, never stable. I'm pretty sure when working, in the past, it was consuming 10-11 amps (on the display) and always steady. So, something's wrong.
I've checked the compressor and it was burning! Couldn't kept my fingers on it more than 2 seconds!
The condenser fan was not working. Tested it already, directly connected to a battery and it's dead. I have >12v at the fan connections, in the controller, so it's not a controller issue (regarding the fan, at least).
I'm using now outside ventilation (I'm trying to find a replace fan on the Internet) but even then the amperage is very high and unstable, every time the compressor is working. Fridge is very cold and I have ice inside, even knowing I have the thermostat at the minimum (which makes me believe the compressor is always working on maximum speed/rotations).
This high consume is killing my batteries, even knowing the boat is on shore power.
I need to fix this asap.
What could be causing this high and unstable consume?
What does control/decide the compressor working speed/rotations? The electronic module? This one is new (few months)!
Thank you.
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Post by kollmann on Jul 1, 2018 13:17:06 GMT
Back because I have a new issue. Suddenly my fridge circuit blew 2 10a fuses. The 1st I didn't care, just replaced it. After the second (same weekend) I was looking carefully and I found the panel showing from 8 to 30a consume when the fridge compressor is working. Moving a lot up and down, never stable. I'm pretty sure when working, in the past, it was consuming 10-11 amps (on the display) and always steady. So, something's wrong. I've checked the compressor and it was burning! Couldn't kept my fingers on it more than 2 seconds! The condenser fan was not working. Tested it already, directly connected to a battery and it's dead. I have >12v at the fan connections, in the controller, so it's not a controller issue (regarding the fan, at least). I'm using now outside ventilation (I'm trying to find a replace fan on the Internet) but even then the amperage is very high and unstable, every time the compressor is working. Fridge is very cold and I have ice inside, even knowing I have the thermostat at the minimum (which makes me believe the compressor is always working on maximum speed/rotations). This high consume is killing my batteries, even knowing the boat is on shore power. I need to fix this asap. What could be causing this high and unstable consume? What does control/decide the compressor working speed/rotations? The electronic module? This one is new (few months)! Thank you. |
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Post by kollmann on Jul 1, 2018 13:17:45 GMT
Several things in your last report do not hold true with a Danfoss BD compressor system. I am assuming this unit does not also have a keel cooler.
1. Generally the fuse size is 15 amps as starting load in hot weather may reach 14 amps for ½ second.
2. Fluxuation of 8 to 30 amps would most likely indicate a problem with ammeter or a refrigerant flow problem.
3. Fan current exceeding ½ amp can prevent compressor start up I am not sure if fan is shorted inside how that might affect system amperage.
4. Danfoss BD 35 compressor maximum running amps is not likely to reach 10 amps and the same holds true with the BD50. This high amperage could be caused by poor condenser cooling or too much refrigerant or contaminated refrigerant, also excessive compressor speed.
5. There is a way to take thermostat’s control of temperature and speed control out of picture to see if how much of your problem it may be causing. Disconnect the wires from compressor control module terminals C and T. Them place a jumper wire across module terminals C and T. Now compressor will run all the time at minimum Rpm of 2,000 Drawing 3 to 5 amps and never higher than 7 amps if this is a BD50 compressor. With the thermostat disconnected use the power on and off switch to regulate temperature. For a day or more to confirm system performance.
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