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Post by so36idavid on Mar 20, 2017 1:12:51 GMT
Your speed differential on different tacks might be related to the underbody. Either the shape of the keel or how it's mounted. Or, less likely, the rudder. Something to look at on your next haulout.
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Post by vasko on Mar 20, 2017 3:54:22 GMT
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Post by MartyB on Mar 20, 2017 5:11:55 GMT
Assuming that your jib furling drum is removable, you would be better off making your race sails full hoist from deck to mast top. Especially the largest LP versions. While like here, you may get a max 155% fore triangle area for your largest headsail, before getting a lower rating hit per say.......If you do this with a full hoist, it would be about a 153% J LP. With a furler, it would be more in the 160-165%lp range, so a much harder sail to tack etc. Also, as long as your cruise white sails are cut to work not being in the furler per say, when the wind picks up, you need a smaller sail, the sail tacked tot he deck, is lower, so you can carry it longer before needing to reef it, go to a smaller HS yet, or reefing the main.
A couple of other options opinions.......
Marty
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Post by hoppy on Mar 20, 2017 5:16:24 GMT
Your speed differential on different tacks might be related to the underbody. Either the shape of the keel or how it's mounted. Or, less likely, the rudder. Something to look at on your next haulout. Was just talking to the sailmaker who will put the sail numbers on about this and he thinks it is not the UV strip as I was wondering, more likely the rigging. I will get the rigging checked and hope that is the problem and not the keel. Right now I have a different problem with the speed log. It's started reading about 2 knots below the GPS regardless of sailing or motoring. I took the sensor out and it was pretty clean, but gave it a once over. A full speed run failed to get the number right. Perhaps I have a growth directly in front of the sensor disturbing the water or I accidentally recalibrated the instrument.
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Post by hoppy on Mar 29, 2017 7:10:07 GMT
The solar arch is gone which is a 32kg saving The two 100w panels weighed 8kg each and I will install one of them where the life raft used to be. I will try to make it quick and easy to remove if I want to take off extra weight for a race. So with 40kg today, the total loss is up to 540kg.
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Post by touchngo on Mar 29, 2017 15:31:01 GMT
The SO40's look so much smarter without the Arch. Wish I could ditch mine! Time for a Fuel Cell maybe?
Enjoy your winter of racing, we're headed for a summer of cruising in the Adriatic.
PT
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Post by hoppy on Mar 29, 2017 21:30:37 GMT
The SO40's look so much smarter without the Arch. Wish I could ditch mine! Time for a Fuel Cell maybe? Enjoy your winter of racing, we're headed for a summer of cruising in the Adriatic. PT Most modern yachts look much nicer without the arch If I had known 5 years ago that Jessabbe would skip the whole Atlantic/Pacific cruising thing, maybe I would have bought a Efoy fuel cell instead. At the time, I looked at the dealers map and thought, no good.... Have fun in the Adriatic
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Post by hoppy on Mar 31, 2017 9:37:11 GMT
They don't make Jessabbe any faster, but the sail numbers do allow her to enter her first race
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Post by hoppy on Apr 11, 2017 7:50:41 GMT
Made a couple of changes in the cockpit to help the crew during races. I moved the 2nd i70 display from the Nav station to the starboard bulkhead, so now the crew can have more info available to them when trimming sails. An old ST70 was dusted off from storage and fill the hole in the cabin. The e7 MFD has been moved from the cockpit table to the starboard helm. I am yet to wire it up, but I positioned it so the cockpit locker should not catch on the cable. The dial and buttons are easily accessable and I don't need to put my hand through the wheel to operate it. Most importantly this allows me to very easily remove the table for races.
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Post by hoppy on Apr 13, 2017 14:02:48 GMT
Today I took off 85m of 8mm chain weighing about 120kg. I left 20m and 50m of rope onboard for anchoring duties. The Rocna is off the bow roller and as for now moved into the locker. I'm not sure if I'll leave it like that or put it back on the roller and just remove it for races. One day maybe I'll get a lightweight Manson Racer but not in the short term. With another 40kg of spares and ropes I took off last week, the total weight loss is now 700kg. I think that after I lighten my tool collection and take a 2nd hard look around the boat, I would not be surprised if I can take off another 50kg at least without losing the possibility to have comfortable family cruises around the bay. Perhaps a 2.5cm / 1 inch higher bow. YES, she desperately needs a haul out and new antifouling. I will get her scraped by a diver before the first race and maybe after that I'll get the haul out arranged
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Post by MartyB on Apr 13, 2017 20:20:05 GMT
Hoppy,
If you've lost that.much weight, that is 25% of my boats base 6400 lb weight! That is a bunch!
Marty
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Post by hoppy on Apr 13, 2017 22:26:06 GMT
Hoppy, If you've lost that.much weight, that is 25% of my boats base 6400 lb weight! That is a bunch! Marty Just imagine how slow your boat would sail if I had filled it up for cruising :-) I still have the 120kg of chain in my car boot and are dreading taking it out and moving it to storage. From the boat to the car was easy as I had help.
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Post by MartyB on Apr 14, 2017 3:45:42 GMT
Glad I have a smaller boat. My CRUISE anchor, rode setup probably weighs all of 50 lb or about 20Kg......race setup is under 20 lbs and 8 or so Kg........If I cruised and anchored out more, to do feel a 10KG anchor would be better than the 7.5........but 10 yrs into owning this boat, the ONLY anchoring I have done is as RC boat! not sure I really need a heavier anchor per say....... I also have rope/chain rodes, not all chain. Even 6mm or 1/4" chain, 200-300' that is needed around here would weight a BUNCH!
Marty
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Post by iancymru on Apr 14, 2017 10:45:41 GMT
Just be wary with a chain rope rode as I got mine wrapped around the keel and was a nightmare to clear.
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Post by hoppy on May 18, 2017 7:56:40 GMT
Had an interesting chat with a guy from North Sails today. I had been thinking/hoping that a no.3 with inboard sheeting would help pointing higher, but he said it would not make much of a difference because it's the keel that helps boats (like on the SF40) point higher. I suppose that makes sense, perhaps the no3 would help me point higher but it would only work in conditions where I should be using a bigger sail.
Anyway I'm getting a quote for some "sensible for a SO40" race sails from them. Maybe if I'm lucky, later in the year I can at least get a 150% race genoa to start my race sail collection with.
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Post by petermc on May 20, 2017 7:05:09 GMT
Funny you mention the 150%. As I have mentioned before I carry a 165%, a 150% and a 105% for racing. Our boats are not that different and the 150% is the one I use the most by a large margin and it works in the broadest wind range 8-20knts. A good 150% on your boat, set well, will help you point higher anyway because it should extend the "slot" producing better speed and better apparent wind angle. Of all the sails you could buy, that one will make the most difference.
MHO though!
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Post by hoppy on May 21, 2017 0:51:14 GMT
Yesterdays race in flat water and 18-23knots was perfect for my 5 year old 135% heavy cruising sail. We only got overpowered once. I guess that the extra area of a 150% would be partially compensated for by a better shape holding laminate and perhaps we could have carried one today? otherwise perhaps a 150% and 1 reef in the main might have been good.
On Friday a rigger paid a quick visit to the boat. It was good he could do it as he was busy and he will come back again for a more thorough check and maybe a sail. Jessabbe has been faster on port but the rigger said the problem he found should have meant the opposite. I don't get it, but the adjustment he made meant that we were equally fast on both tacks. He did also find that the backstay was way to slack and tightened it so much that he had to use the full turn buckle. It seems that maybe when the standing rigging was replaced it was perhaps not measured correctly.
The rigger got me to check the mast straightness under sail and it looked to me like it bends to port midway between the spreaders regardless of the tack.
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Post by Don Reaves on May 21, 2017 1:07:15 GMT
What did your rigger say was the problem that caused one tack to be faster? My SO35 has this problem, and others have reported this problem also. It would be good to know what might be done to fix it. I tuned my rig after launching this spring, and found that the starboard shrouds didn't have as much tension as the port shrouds, so I balanced them. But I haven't been able to sail yet to see if it helped.
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Post by hoppy on May 21, 2017 1:12:16 GMT
Does anyone here have or knows someone who has experience with racing sails made by Rolly Tasker in Thailand? I know from other forums that cruisers are happy with the sails they get from them.
The price of their sails are so much lower than that of local lofts that I feel I have to consider them. Clearly their production costs will be dramatically lower and they don't charge a premium for their name. They build sails using US or European cloths, so it feels like the main drawback is the need for me to get my measurements right and hope they know how to design racing sails.
For a 130% I got quoted $1950 USD at the start of the year, for a Grey D/P Film - Taffeta (1 side) Laminate with Carbon Tapes. Size that up to 150% and add some vertical battens and maybe I'll get a decent race sail that is suitable for my level of racing. Might have to talk to them in more detail once I've done so more research.
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Post by hoppy on May 21, 2017 1:16:27 GMT
What did your rigger say was the problem that caused one tack to be faster? My SO35 has this problem, and others have reported this problem also. It would be good to know what might be done to fix it. I tuned my rig after launching this spring, and found that the starboard shrouds didn't have as much tension as the port shrouds, so I balanced them. But I haven't been able to sail yet to see if it helped. Don't know what he did, but I'd guess it was something along those lines. Hopefully soon I'll meet him on the boat to go through this.
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Post by hoppy on May 21, 2017 23:23:36 GMT
Just spoke to the rigger. He said that the mast was leaning to port and the rigging in general was slack. He mentioned that the rig lean can be difficult to judge exactly because it depends on the trim of the boat, but he did think Jessabbe looked level. I might take spirit level onboard and check her trim and adjust for when he is back onboard.
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Post by hoppy on Jul 18, 2017 11:05:09 GMT
d**n....Just saw this keel on SA after the auction had closed www.graysonline.com/lot/0095-3013728/boats-marine-and-aircraft/b-boat-keel-b?spr=trueSteel with stainless steel bolts Height: 1870 mm approx Length: 2560 mm approx Width: 390 mm approx Comes with stillage Weight: 1740 kgs I wonder if something like this could be fitted on a SO40. I guess my keel is 1.5m high so the keel would make a draft of 2320 and the keel is 660 kg lighter. Perhaps it is better for a SO37
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Post by hoppy on Dec 16, 2017 0:07:17 GMT
The last race, where it was blowing 23 to 28 and we came 2nd by 12 seconds with a dirty bottom has me thinking that my original sail idea of a racing no.1 & no.3 was perhaps not the right choice for club racing.
I'd always expected that we could be competitive when the wind was blowing 20-23 from the north allowing us to use full sails (current 135% genoa) and a flat sea. This was based on my many years soloing which did not take into account what 4 guys on the rail will do to the performance.
Given that the twilights don't race in much more wind, I now think that a no.3 would have been a too small sail.
So now I think that the better choice could be a big no.1 155% that could be used up to 22 knots and a no.2, perhaps 130%. The no.2 could be cut to fit on the roller so it could be reefed for a get me home mode.
With a couple of extra crew on the rail, perhaps we could be mid fleet in 16-20 and very competitive in 20-30 or maybe a little more with a reef in the main. The light wind days would ensure that the PHS handicap hovers around a reasonable number.
I would assume this logic would apply to all SO's perhaps from the SO37 upwards. Below that, perhaps a no.3 would be needed for the higher winds.
of course as I'm selling Jessabbe I'll never get to test the theory out.
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Post by petermc on Dec 16, 2017 0:18:35 GMT
interesting. I have a 165% light no 1 for breeze up to 12-14 kits, a medium/heavy no1 at 150% for breeze up to 25 and a no.3 at 100% for >25knts. The sail i use most by far is the 150% no. medium/heavy. I had it made to specifically deal with 20knts at which point I would rather put 1 reef in the main and keep carrying the bigger headsail than change down the headsail to give me better speed on offend legs.
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Post by hoppy on Dec 16, 2017 0:46:24 GMT
interesting. I have a 165% light no 1 for breeze up to 12-14 kits, a medium/heavy no1 at 150% for breeze up to 25 and a no.3 at 100% for >25knts. The sail i use most by far is the 150% no. medium/heavy. I had it made to specifically deal with 20knts at which point I would rather put 1 reef in the main and keep carrying the bigger headsail than change down the headsail to give me better speed on offend legs. If you were sailing out of Melbourne this year, you would have used your 165% for more than half the winter races and the 150% for most of the rest with the occasional reef. Possibly on the last 2 races you would have chosen the no.3 but with a long reach followed by a run you would have been regretting the choice or if you chose the 150% you might have been struggling on the upwind leg with 2 reefs. A 130% no.2 would have been better.
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