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Post by kenlewis40 on Dec 27, 2014 14:30:06 GMT
I am about to remove the exhaust elbow on my Penta MD 2020.
Can anyone give me some do’s and don’ts pointers? Also, in what order should i take it apart, e.g. do I remove the rubber exhaust pipe first, or the bolts, or the small rubber coupling on the top of the elbow?
The rubber coupling on the elbow is attached to the heat exchanger with two jubilee clips do they have to come off as well?
Many thank and I wish you all a safe New Year
Ken
Solo
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Post by alex1949 on Dec 28, 2014 16:44:39 GMT
hi Ken I would answer you regarding another Volvo engine D2 55 3004 that I have onboard my yacht. First , take off all rubber piping that are connected to the elbow, it is easier to remove while the elbow is still attached, you may have to shake those pipes to get them lose. Attach those pipes up in a way that no water will go to your bilge. Now loosen the elbow's nuts and again carefully shake the elbow to make it loose. Be careful using hummer or any other tolling to prevent damage to the tips of both the elbow and manifold. Usually you will have to get a new gasket when reassembling, if it goes smoothly you may be lucky enough to save this expense. If you intend to clean the old unit prepare to a long nasty work with a chisel and hummer ,the internal buildup is rather solid. Take good look after small micro holes in the unit. The elbow is rather solid treat it brutally no problem. reassemble, sound gasket (special gasket) is a must. An even tightening for the elbow nuts will help. I did it more than ten times - no big problems. A sound elbow will be clean of major buildup of solids inside or at least most of it. It does not need to be smooth just free and open. Call for help if you need more advice. Alex |
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Post by kenlewis40 on Dec 31, 2014 7:06:56 GMT
Thanks Alex for the advice on removing the exhaust elbow. Your engine is a different model to mine but the principal is probably the same.
There have been a number of strings related to exhaust elbows in general but not about its removal. I was hoping that someone would give me some advice on removing an MD 2020 elbow.
There is still time before the end of winter to find out.
Happy New Year to you all.
Ken Solo
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Post by ianqv on Jan 3, 2015 14:23:52 GMT
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Post by MalcolmP on Jan 3, 2015 18:07:53 GMT
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Post by sailbleu on Jan 3, 2015 21:11:25 GMT
Euuuuuuh , sorry guys , close to 200£ , is this just an s/s elbow , rectangle flange and pick-in for the raw water ? No double mixing-chamber like the genuine VP-elbow ? Man , I should be setting up a business . Regards |
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Post by MalcolmP on Jan 4, 2015 9:38:55 GMT
Euuuuuuh , sorry guys , close to 200£ , is this just an s/s elbow , rectangle flange and pick-in for the raw water ? No double mixing-chamber like the genuine VP-elbow ? Man , I should be setting up a business . Regards Agree - doesn't look good value at all, as Ian pointed out he is asking the same price about as the OEM - I didn't have my brain in gear when I looked at the link |
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Post by ianqv on Feb 6, 2015 21:58:30 GMT
Hi All, I removed my exhaust elbow this year purely for routine maintenance. As you can expect it was pretty carboned up and a little rusty inside. I chipped most of the carbon out but thought I would get it shot blasted so that I could re-paint it. Please keep in mind, there were no problems... this was just purely maintenance.... this is what I found after all the crap was cleared away!!! So far, so good!!  Not good on the other side!!  I was lucky that this did not fail on me! it must have been the carbon stopping it from leaking!!1111  I have ordered a stainless one from keypart.com @ £225 (ouch!!!!) So...... if you are all sorted on your winter jobs and have nothing to do  , have a peep inside your exhaust elbow! Regards Ian p.s I will post pics of the stainless one, once it arrives! |
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Post by ianqv on Feb 9, 2015 17:01:19 GMT
Hi All, The new stainless exhaust elbow arrived today. It looks very well put together (lets hope it works as good as it looks!!)...... I'll let you know!  Regards Ian |
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Post by alex1949 on Feb 9, 2015 17:16:28 GMT
The old elbow looks ........ I used to be a Yanmar 3GM30 (proud) engine owner but now I have a Volvo D2-55 onboard. I must say that the mixing elbow on the Volvo looks more stuff and will last longer,I took both out for same maintenance treatment and as I said,the Volvo looks much stronger. |
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Post by rodgerg on Feb 9, 2015 17:43:36 GMT
This is a bit freaky I was at the boat today and was looking at the exhaust elbow as I am planning on opening up the heat exchanger. I discovered that the uppermost right part of the elbow has a crack in front of the bolt which looks as if it has been there for some time. If I were to undo the bolt a triangle of casting would come off the corner. Absolutely no leaks and I am not sure whether I can leave for the moment as she has been running this way for a long time by the looks of it. Saw the SS replacement on the parts company website is that not a bit of a risk in terms of maybe hastening the rusting of the cast parts of the engine?
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Post by kenlewis40 on Feb 10, 2015 7:53:39 GMT
Hi all
I removed my exhaust elbow and replaced it with a S/S equivalent from Ropewalk Marine at £242.21 inc gasket, VAT and delivery. It was so well made, it looked to nice to fix to the engine. I have not cleaned the old elbow yet so I have no idea what condition it is in.
The hardest part was getting a spanner into the tight spaces to reach the nuts. I had to grind down a spanner specially to get the last purchase on one of the nuts.
Looking at Ian’s elbow photo’s after sand blasting makes me wonder how many engines are running out there with a few thou of carbon, rust and metal between being serviceable and disaster.
I can imagine a lot of owners checking their elbows before the spring.
Good luck
Ken
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Post by ianqv on Feb 12, 2015 9:08:43 GMT
Morning All,
Well, the plot thickens!!
Whilst refitting the exhaust elbow I looked inside the exhaust hose which goes down to the water lock.
It had quite a lot of debris clinging to the walls of the hose. So, for the cost of £15 I replaced the hose.
I then thought, how much of this debris (rust and carbon) had made its way down into the water lock.
So I removed the water lock (very easy) at took it home to wash out in the sink (obviously when Mrs Ianqv was not around!!)
The water trap which is fitted to this year of S/O is a Volvo trap. This is basically a very large diameter hose, with a plate at each end which is held on by huge jubilee clips. As expected there was an amount of debris (approx. a couple of cup fulls) inside the trap.
Once I had cleaned it all up inside it soon become apparent that the metal end plates were paper thin and had been eaten away over the years.
I held a torch behind the metal and in places it was actually “peppered” with small holes.
So I have now had to purchase a vetus plastic type water trap.
Pics to follow………
Best Regards
Ian
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Post by captbillh on Feb 12, 2015 14:38:45 GMT
I had a Yanmar 3JH4E on a Beneteau 373. after 5 years the SS mixing elbow developed a very small drip at the fist weld after the manifold flange. I tightened the raw water injection hose thinking that it was leaking. after the drip continued I took off the elbow, not hard but tedious. I cleaned it and found tiny pinholes then I sent it to a friend to get it re welded but the heat distorted the flange so it was scrap.
I bought a new one for USD $385. one supply house had it for USD $480! The prevalent view over here is that it is good for about 5 yrs only. It is like any periodic maintenance item.
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Post by rodgerg on Feb 12, 2015 15:19:18 GMT
Ian I haverdered a replacement original elbow which I hope to fit Monday. Did you encounter any other problems other than a lack of space for the spanner? Did you use sealant with the new gasket? I also see that on mine a large electrical component is right next to the flange, does that move out of the way ok? any other tips would be great
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Post by kenlewis40 on Feb 13, 2015 15:30:03 GMT
Hi Rodgerg
You do not say whether the replacement elbow is a Volvo casing or S/Steel. Replacing the cast unit is straightforward as there are cut outs in the casting which will take 12mm sockets with extensions. I was fortunate that once the nuts were moved I could undo them with my fingers.
With my S/S replacement, the flange is thinner and there is no cut out for the 12mm socket Therefore a normal spanner is needed with very little tightening space. Hence, the need for me to shape a spanner, especially for the job.
The component on my MD2020D is the glow plug electrics frame and it is attached to the side of the engine block with a couple of nuts to the top L/H nut on the elbow. Once these nuts are removed the glow plug box will move out of the way. Move it gently.
When replacing the new S/S elbow and gasket, hand tighten only three nuts. The top right, bottom right and the bottom left. On the top left you will need to add a couple of washers between the flange and the glow plug box assemble support. The reason is that the S/S flange is probably thinner than the cast one and the washers are spacers. You should then find that the nuts on the engine block for the glow plug support should marry up. Tighten all the nuts as best you can.
I did not add any sealant to the gasket but someone might tell me I should have done.
I hope that helps
Ken
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Post by captbillh on Feb 13, 2015 16:54:47 GMT
The Yanmar tech at the marine told be Not to add any sealant to the gasket. Install it dry.
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Post by rodgerg on Feb 13, 2015 19:35:48 GMT
Thanks very much for tour advice. Its an original cast one I am putting on. I was a bit worried about cathodic effect of SS against all the other components. Also a little cheaper  |
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Post by Don Reaves on Feb 13, 2015 20:11:08 GMT
Ian,
How many hours do you have on your engine?
Don
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Post by captbillh on Feb 14, 2015 15:29:20 GMT
I had 640 hrs on engine and 5 seasons.
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Post by ianqv on Feb 15, 2015 20:10:56 GMT
Hi Rodgerg - sound advice from Ken. I found the same.... the stainless elbow was more tricky as slightly less socket clearance. But managed to get in with a spanner ok.
Don, At the end of last season I had just clicked over to 1000 hours. Works out to 71 hours a year.
My engine maintenance for this usage is:
Fuel filters - at the start of each season.
Oil - 3 times a year (start, middle and towards the end of each season)
Oil filter - start of each season
Tappets - every other season
Fan belt - every other season
Impellor - as and when
Thermostat - I don't run one! - less to go wrong!
Air filter - I run a K&N filter, it gets cleaned every season
Regards
Ian
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Post by rodgerg on Feb 15, 2015 20:44:30 GMT
Nearly four hours it took me to get the blinking thing off and on again. I had problems with one nut which rounded. however the casting was broken into three pieces so it came away easily however that made it easier to get off the damaged bolt. What i did find was that the two starboard side studs appeared to be splayed somewat and the new casting would not fit until I very carefully straigtened them. I suspect this is perhaps why both upper and lower stbd side corners of the original casting had cracked through. New one went on ok. with only a little retightening of the jubilee clips. So much easier to refit when the heat exchanger had been removed.
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Post by Damir on Feb 15, 2015 21:00:07 GMT
Before mounted elbow back grease bolts , nuts & joint with cooperslip or graphite grease for next time remove easy.
Damir |
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Post by ianqv on Feb 15, 2015 21:08:06 GMT
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Post by vasko on Feb 17, 2015 20:58:33 GMT
Ian,
when you were with the original one - with the holes - did you had a feeling that the engine is quite noisy or there were no noise difference ?
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, have a peep inside your exhaust elbow!
