royhb
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by royhb on Sept 20, 2013 23:32:37 GMT
Does anyone know if all recent Jeanneau's (ours is a 2 year old 42I) use fittings with BSP threads?
I need to order replacements Monday and I can't see a way to check while the boat is in the water and I wouldn't know how to tell even if I could see the threads
Thanks
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Post by j on Sept 22, 2013 1:33:36 GMT
Does anyone know if all recent Jeanneau's (ours is a 2 year old 42I) use fittings with BSP threads? I can't comment on the 42i specifically but I would be very suprised if they weren't BSP (actually BSP Parallel) All of the research we did led us to believe that european boat builders tend to use BSP threads. If you intend to use TruDesign parts be aware that the overall size of the valves is massive compared to the original stuff, measurements are on their website.
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Post by hoppy on Oct 2, 2013 13:35:12 GMT
I had a guy on my boat quieting me fair a holding tank last week and when he turned the waste seacock he immediately suspected something was wrong. I closed it and flushed the toilet and it still pumped out.
If I had any reservations about replacing all seacocks before, they are gone and I am 100% certain that they will all be replaced this winter.
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ChrisH
Full Member
Out West, or in the office.
Posts: 36
Jeanneau Model: 342
Country: Scotland
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Post by ChrisH on Oct 3, 2013 22:47:58 GMT
I replaced the engine seacock on my 1999 SO342 last winter (pics on another thread here and on YBW) where the tail fitting was totally destroyed by dezinkification (if that's a word). Kept in salt water for the first five years and in fresh for the last 8 years with only a few weeks in salt water each year so don't let the fresh water lull you into a false sence of security. Replaced it with a modern plastic type fitting at the same cost as a full bronze set up.
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Post by j on Oct 27, 2013 12:44:26 GMT
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jack35
Junior Member
Posts: 10
Country: Australia
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Post by jack35 on Nov 19, 2013 22:54:08 GMT
Hi All Thanks for your discussion above. We're having similar issues in our SO35 2005, but as she is ex-charter anything could have been done, however it had to pass QLD Survey, however ... I suspect the tail is brass in this engine intake seacock. But when removed there remains a flush insert in the hull : Attachment DeletedThe skin fitting is an integrated strainer which became full of mussels hence low water intake to engine : Attachment DeletedWe have harbours on Port Philip that have lots of seagrass which get ingested. This is the first time we've had problems with the mussels - very warm water last year. But I'm reluctant to refit strainers, however I can not see how to replace with mushroom skin fitting as the head is very small and wouldn't cover the insert above hence not tighten up on the hull. Does anyone know if the flush insert is a Jeanneau feature and how it is fixed to the boat and what to do. Thanks JJ
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jack35
Junior Member
Posts: 10
Country: Australia
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Post by jack35 on Nov 20, 2013 10:20:01 GMT
Hi I've solved my question with the inserts above. Turns out they were large bronze washers recessed slightly and embedded into the hull. The thru hull water strainers were bronze and in good condition, just full of mussels. I don't like forcing things when I don't know what I'm doing but sometimes urgency can be a great incentive. Anyway the thru hull holes cleaned up nicely but I will give them an epoxy coating and go to the straight skin fitting rather than the strainer and rely on the inboard strainer. However I just can't believe Jeanneau would use brass anywhere below the waterline so this thread put the wind up me. Cheers JJ
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Post by hoppy on Apr 22, 2014 13:55:15 GMT
I had a guy on my boat quieting me fair a holding tank last week and when he turned the waste seacock he immediately suspected something was wrong. I closed it and flushed the toilet and it still pumped out. If I had any reservations about replacing all seacocks before, they are gone and I am 100% certain that they will all be replaced this winter. Job is done.... All seacocks are replaced by trudesign plastics..... I have not seen them yet...
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Post by alenka on Apr 22, 2014 17:08:31 GMT
Hoppy,
I guess your 40ds has a similiar amount of through hulls to my 43ds. And as we are both in the same cruising area might I ask what the cost was?
Cheers
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Post by hoppy on Apr 22, 2014 17:47:52 GMT
Hoppy, I guess your 40ds has a similiar amount of through hulls to my 43ds. And as we are both in the same cruising area might I ask what the cost was? Cheers SO40.... not DS Price was 781,90 € for parts
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Post by alenka on Apr 22, 2014 19:39:50 GMT
Hoppy, I guess your 40ds has a similiar amount of through hulls to my 43ds. And as we are both in the same cruising area might I ask what the cost was? Cheers SO40.... not DS Price was 781,90 € for parts Thanks for info. I am flying out in the next week or so. I will get the current ones checked and put them onto the to do list!
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Post by hoppy on Apr 22, 2014 20:46:47 GMT
SO40.... not DS Price was 781,90 € for parts Thanks for info. I am flying out in the next week or so. I will get the current ones checked and put them onto the to do list! the articles about the problem scared me enough but finding one having a broken valve made me certain, now is better than later
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Post by electricmonk on Apr 27, 2014 8:40:31 GMT
As far as I can tell the best way to destroy a seacock is to bond it, i.e. make it part of a circuit, left alone they don't seem to give trouble. That's the Jeanneau view and my experience. In a past life I used to deal in bronze and brass fittings and unless you send one away for destructive testing there is no real way of knowing what material you have, in my humble experience manufactures will tell you what you want to hear.
Removal of skin fittings: Over many years I have removed a fair number and the easy way is to cut the flange off with an angle grinder, position the angle grinder so the disc is at 90deg to the hull and grind away by rotating the grinder until the flange falls off, there should be NO grinding of the hull at all so no marks to make good.
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Post by touchngo on May 5, 2014 4:04:00 GMT
.....PT, do you have a price for these? ..... Sorry Hoppy, did not see your post until this morning when I noticed a tiny little "1" on the Profile menu item! I was able to source all of the items locally here in Dubai, so prices are for local pickup and came to AED 1939 which is US$ 527. The downside was that I couldn't get all the parts in one go, so have half onboard waiting to be fitted, and the other half sitting on the floor behind me waiting to go out. Shipping to the boat turned out to be the same price as flying myself out, so in the end I haven't saved anything really and they're still not installed yet! Peace of mind seems to always come at a price. I see from later comments in the thread that you have already installed yours. Again, apologies for the delay in responding. Cheers, PT
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Post by ForGrinsToo on May 5, 2014 20:13:53 GMT
As far as I can tell the best way to destroy a seacock is to bond it, i.e. make it part of a circuit, left alone they don't seem to give trouble. That's the Jeanneau view and my experience. In a past life I used to deal in bronze and brass fittings and unless you send one away for destructive testing there is no real way of knowing what material you have, in my humble experience manufactures will tell you what you want to hear. Removal of skin fittings: Over many years I have removed a fair number and the easy way is to cut the flange off with an angle grinder, position the angle grinder so the disc is at 90deg to the hull and grind away by rotating the grinder until the flange falls off, there should be NO grinding of the hull at all so no marks to make good. There are handheld non-destructive testers (based on x-ray fluorescence) available from Bruker, Niton, Olympus, Spectro - maybe others - that will tell you rather precisely what alloy the fitting is. No need, even, to remove the fitting from the boat as long as the smaller-than-a-shoebox-sized unit can get to the fitting. Trouble is, they are $16k - $18k US which is likely outside the grasp of your average marine surveyor. (These are broadly used by the lead-in-paint inspectors as well as for the sorting of alloys in scrap yards). However, based on this thread and others on other boards, I think one might do well at $5 per fitting telling the owner what is the skin fitting, the valve body, and the tailpiece. Dissimilar alloys in electrical contact, conductive medium like salt water - something is going to give. And looking back in the thread, on Aug 2, 2013, J posted a rather nifty use of a wood plug and hole saw to remove skin fittings. Marelon for me, I think.
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Post by Caxton on Feb 12, 2016 17:18:50 GMT
I have a 2007 SO 39i and am replacing the raw water intake to the diesel seacock which is begging to corrode as described above.
Do anyone know the threads hole and thread size? If the through hull is in good shape should I keep it or replace both the through hull and the seacock?
Thanks!
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Post by MalcolmP on Feb 12, 2016 17:54:37 GMT
I have a 2007 SO 39i and am replacing the raw water intake to the diesel seacock which is begging to corrode as described above. Do anyone know the threads hole and thread size? If the through hull is in good shape should I keep it or replace both the through hull and the seacock? Thanks! Can't remember the sizes but the inlet was a standard fitting which the yard who upgraded all my seacocks last year obtained without difficulty (That was Richardson's on the IOW, who are excellent) The actual skin fittings were closely examined and there was no corrosion at all - the only, but significant issue was corrosion on the tail. So the original skin fitting but with new T ball and tail both of DZR standard were used - except on the WC where they fitted a Tru-design plastic The guys at Richardsons do work on the lifeboats so I was quite happy in their opinion that the OEM thru-hulls were still fully fit for purpose
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Post by Caxton on Feb 27, 2016 20:52:30 GMT
I have decided to go with the Forespar Part # 931144 Mushroom Thru-Hull x Hose Barb Seacock Assembly. Will post pictures of the installation when done.
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Post by so32foot on Mar 2, 2016 12:22:28 GMT
I want to replace the seacocks on my SO 32 from 2004.
I'm still in doubt to make a choice for Trudesign or Groco in line ball valves. Eventually I want to use bronze thru hulls if I choose for Trudesign.
Is Trudesign also suitable for use in the engine room? Anybody experience with that? I fear a bit that the temperature in the engine room which may last for long periods, will shorten the lifetime of the plastic.
And I wonder if both above mentioned seacocks can be maintained by opening them, remove the growth on the balls and sealings or that balls and sealings can be replaced. Anybody experience with that?
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Post by vasko on Mar 2, 2016 13:21:50 GMT
really inserted in feedback after install ! - I'm still little bit doubtful installing non metal seacocks... thinking about stainless steel for next time I change mine...
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Post by vasko on Mar 2, 2016 13:28:46 GMT
e.g. :
"regardless of the stainless versus bronze debate IMHO metal is best - a boat in Wales sank on its pontoon a few yeaars ago. The reason was found to be a plastic through hull fitting that was sheared off cleanly at the hull. It was thought that the hull had touched the corner of the pontoon on entering the marina berth and unluckily had sheared off the fitting.!
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Post by so32foot on Mar 3, 2016 7:53:15 GMT
Vasko: "regardless of the stainless versus bronze debate IMHO metal is best": what is IMHO?
Furtermore I'm thinking about installing bronze thruhulls and Trudesign seacocks on it: anything against this solution?
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Post by vasko on Mar 3, 2016 8:12:15 GMT
Vasko: "regardless of the stainless versus bronze debate IMHO metal is best": what is IMHO? Furtermore I'm thinking about installing bronze thruhulls and Trudesign seacocks on it: anything against this solution? sorry if I gave a wrong impression - the quotes are not mine - I copy paste it from another discussion - e.g. I'm not a truhull expert myself ! e.g I have the same problem as anyone else - choosing the right seacock\truehull material... and I'm investigating what it should be and so far I'm leaning towards stainless steel... btw: IMHO means "In My Humble Opinion"
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Post by vasko on Mar 3, 2016 8:16:26 GMT
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Post by hoppy on Mar 3, 2016 8:34:02 GMT
I suspect that there will be a problem with matching up the threads, best that you email truedesign and ask them directly.
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