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Post by Mistroma on May 12, 2013 16:25:26 GMT
My comments were specific to the 42DS. Our previous boat had the exhaust on the stern and that worked well, but it didn't have a sugar scoop. Surprised it seems to work on the 36i though as I thought the stern layout was similar to the 42DS.
There isn't really anywhere suitable on the stern of a 42DS unless you put it almost at the waterline and have it sticking out aft. You are either inside the scoop and above teak covered steps or above GRP. The sections on either side have quite a forward angle and so you can't direct drips away from the GRP. That's why I preferred the hull fitting with a short pipe and 90 degree bend. I've never had any staining and it's clear of everything.
The only problem I had was when I had to put a fender on the very end of the hull at the stern. I forgot about it until 30 mins. after I'd started the heater. Nice bulge on bottom of the fender but no harm done. I've never had to put a fender there again but would remember to move it before firing up the heater. On balance, I still think my current setup is better than a stern mounted exhaust for my particular boat. We don't have davits but the dinghy lives across the stern.
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Post by Trevor on May 12, 2013 22:43:43 GMT
Many thanks Mistroma and J for that great information.
Also, great thanks Mistroma for going to the trouble of climbing in the back and taking those photos. I know how hard it is to get there in a boat that has all of the bedcloths on the aft bunk!!
I have completed the job and when I get my act together I will write the story up in case anyone wants to do the same.
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by Mistroma on May 19, 2013 21:47:46 GMT
Excellent job, very tidy. It is a VERY close copy of the install on my own boat. There are a few small differences but I think there are pros & cons for each of these.
e.g. My forward heads outlet is at bottom left of the locker door. This seems to give excellent circulation at the expense of some ducting inside the locker. I think your solution gives more locker space and a pre-warmed loo seat.
Your exhaust is higher up than mine. However, I have a 90 deg. elbow which sticks out quite a bit. Not a problem when it is sl. under the curve in the hull and drips fall clear of the GRP. Looks as if your exhaust might be more flush fitting than mine.
Nice to know it is working.
I believe that it is better if the system pulls in fresh air to heat rather than re-cycling from inside the boat. I think that might poss. be a safety issue, so worth checking if you decide to leave it that way.
I'm running my system just now as it is still a bit nippy here in Galicia. The boat has been around 10 deg. C a couple of mornings but soon to warm up. I'll still run the system once a month just to push a little fresh fuel through.
PS Just spotted that you have the first Y leading from the heater pointing in opposite direction from mine. I think that I mentioned reading that this was to stop too much flow going to port side ducting. I said that it seemed to be counter intuitive. I'd be interested to hear if the balance still seems OK when it faces forward. Compare my previous heater outlet picture with yours. My aft-cabin and aft-heads all seem to put out a reasonable amount of heat. However, the forward heads is a bit warmer than the aft one. Roundabouts & swings I guess.
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Post by Trevor on May 24, 2013 0:52:55 GMT
Hi Mistroma,
e.g. My forward heads outlet is at bottom left of the locker door. This seems to give excellent circulation at the expense of some ducting inside the locker. I think your solution gives more locker space and a pre-warmed loo seat.
Yes I couldn't see a big disadvantage to my location and I thought it put it as far away as possible from the shower (not that the fwd shower is ever used on our yacht)
Your exhaust is higher up than mine. However, I have a 90 deg. elbow which sticks out quite a bit. Not a problem when it is sl. under the curve in the hull and drips fall clear of the GRP. Looks as if your exhaust might be more flush fitting than mine.
Yes I tried to get it as high up the hull as I could so as not to go under water on a port tack.
I believe that it is better if the system pulls in fresh air to heat rather than re-cycling from inside the boat. I think that might poss. be a safety issue, so worth checking if you decide to leave it that way.
Agree although the locker is quite well isolated from the rest of the inside of the boat. I intend to purchase the inlet and 90 degree bend but at this stage do not know where to purchase it from. It is very good to have the photo from your boat as I would have put it in the wrong place to the right of the engine blower inlet instead of to the left.
PS Just spotted that you have the first Y leading from the heater pointing in opposite direction from mine. I think that I mentioned reading that this was to stop too much flow going to port side ducting. I said that it seemed to be counter intuitive. I'd be interested to hear if the balance still seems OK when it faces forward. Compare my previous heater outlet picture with yours. My aft-cabin and aft-heads all seem to put out a reasonable amount of heat. However, the forward heads is a bit warmer than the aft one. Roundabouts & swings I guess.
Yes my theory was to increase flow to the aft cabin, hence the normal (not reversed like the factory installation) first 90/60/90 junction. I wanted to even out flow from aft cabin starboard outlet (closest to blower, hence reversed) to port outlet (furthest from blower, hence not reversed). I haven't really seen how well that theory has worked but time will tell.
Many thanks for your help with this,
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by SO 36i - Penelope on Jun 13, 2013 13:20:04 GMT
A tip for the cold countries The Dutch Jeanneau Dealer fitted our SO 36i with a Webasto 3900 Evo Comfort units, which works very well. During the very cold start of this year's sailing season (first trip with outside temp of 4 degrees Celsius and watertemp of around zero - ice was still floating in the water), I noticed that the unit was struggeling to get the boat warm. The main reason is that al the Webasto pipes are located against the (cold)exterior side of the boat and therefor loose a lot of heat before reaching the output. I have installed the Webasto Thermoduct Isolation sleeves. The difference in temperature of the air is very big! The air is really hot now. Benefits: the temperature is quicker at the desired level and this also saves fuel/energy consumption. The installation is quite simple and easy to do yourself.
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Post by toniocask on Feb 28, 2014 8:43:20 GMT
Hi Trevor, I'm Antonio from Italy, I have a question for you.. I've a sun odyssey 42i and I'm undecided wheter to buy the Webasto 3900 or the 5500, on your boat the 3900 is enought to warm it up? In Italy it is not so cold, but I would not go wrong buying. Thank'you for the answer.
Antonio Jeanneau sun odyssey 42i
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Post by Trevor on Mar 1, 2014 20:38:31 GMT
Hello Antonio, I also thought for a long time to decide because the installation is not that easy and I didn't want to do all of the work and then be disappointed. I looked at the graphs on the Webasto site to find the correct power specification and decided on the 3900. We are VERY happy with the 3900 and it does a magnificent job at heating the entire boat. Fortunately living in Sydney Australia, the winter is not so extreme that we need the bigger unit. We are very happy with the Webasto 3900 and we are very glad we picked that size. Regards, Trevor
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Post by toniocask on Mar 2, 2014 10:23:38 GMT
Hi Trevor, thank's for the information My girlfriend is very sensitive for the cold weather and so I was concerned about. Ciao.
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