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Post by MartyB on Jun 15, 2012 15:39:44 GMT
Malcolm,
Appears to be for wheel steered boats.........BUT, i' still wondering if one could not fit this to my till model. I'll probably go with the 2000+, if as Ted say, will take info from my ST60+ wind guage, may be ble to hook it up to a gps of some sort........it'll work for what I am doing.
I also noted at some of the manufacture sites, like anchors, they all mention a base size, then upgrade accordingly if you will be offshore in higher winds! If the pilots are based on a max 40 knot wind as most anchors are, then one knows to upsize if in a hurricane sized winds etc! Like wise, if only in 20 knot winds, one could go smaller per say too.
Marty
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Post by tedp on Jun 15, 2012 16:21:52 GMT
My idea is that if caught in heavy weather offshore, you will either be steering the boat yourself, or lying to with a treble-reefed main and a corner of the foresail showing. In that case the helm will be lashed to lee. So in no case will you need a beefed-up autopilot. Unless you plan to do single-handed Atlantic crossings in winter.  |
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Post by MalcolmP on Jun 15, 2012 16:52:38 GMT
Malcolm, Appears to be for wheel steered boats.........BUT, i' still wondering if one could not fit this to my till model. I'll probably go with the 2000+, if as Ted say, will take info from my ST60+ wind guage, may be ble to hook it up to a gps of some sort........it'll work for what I am doing. I also noted at some of the manufacture sites, like anchors, they all mention a base size, then upgrade accordingly if you will be offshore in higher winds! If the pilots are based on a max 40 knot wind as most anchors are, then one knows to upsize if in a hurricane sized winds etc! Like wise, if only in 20 knot winds, one could go smaller per say too. Marty Marty - should activate onto a quadrant, so providing there is space on the rudder post you could fit a quadrant even if it has a tiller - the same way that the SF3200 is rigged. I have to say the unit looked to me like bit like a windscreen wiper mechanism - if you fit one of those you will definitely be going forward and backwards rather too much M |
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Post by MartyB on Jun 15, 2012 17:12:08 GMT
Ted,
Some of what you say is probably true!
malcolm,
will have to look into seeing if I can get to the rudder post enough. that would keep the cockpit a bit cleaner yet, BUT, probably add a lot to the install process, along with cost! At what point do you say X$ is too much to spend on an XX or XXX$ machine or maybe X% of the cost of the boat, how long will one keep it, use the item etc..........Obviously the last items it is a personal what is right vs wrong, vs an actual right vs wrong.
Marty
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2012 14:11:36 GMT
before some wag pointed out to me that the same motor (type RS-555 SH) is made by Mabuchi and costs only a few Euros.... I purchased one of those Mabuchi motors for my ST4000+ with the 7T gear. I used a pinion gear puller from a hobby shop to extract the gear from old motor. However, the gear spins freely on the new motor shaft. So it's not exactly the same? Not sure what to do now. Super glue? Heated the gear and was able to stick it back on the old motor. It holds fine. BTW, I bought the motor before seeing this thread, so I can't blam e you  |
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Post by sitara on Nov 14, 2012 20:28:02 GMT
I fitted used the SPX-5 system on my old boat (SO29.2) and it worked perfectly for the four years I kept the boat. The motor housing was broken on the unit that Raymarine supplied to me but this was replace very quickly. My only complaint was the noise of the motor working on a quite still day!
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Post by tedp on Nov 20, 2012 0:10:30 GMT
before some wag pointed out to me that the same motor (type RS-555 SH) is made by Mabuchi and costs only a few Euros.... I purchased one of those Mabuchi motors for my ST4000+ with the 7T gear. I used a pinion gear puller from a hobby shop to extract the gear from old motor. However, the gear spins freely on the new motor shaft. So it's not exactly the same? Not sure what to do now. Super glue? Heated the gear and was able to stick it back on the old motor. It holds fine. BTW, I bought the motor before seeing this thread, so I can't blam e you That's funny! Did you check the shaft diameters? So the motor despite looking the same isn't a straight replacement. If a pinion spins freely on the shaft I wouldn't fit it with superglue only. I think some force should be needed to fit it securely. |
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Post by sailbleu on Nov 20, 2012 5:35:15 GMT
Hi Ted , would you happen to know where I can get a cheap spare electrical motor for my ST6000. Again this last season I had some probs with my pilot , nothing serious though , just some stuck carbon brushes. It's the second time that happens. Apparently the carbon wear settles down between the brushes and housing blocking the brushes to slide down eventually. That results in a malfunction with " drivestop " indication on the display. Functionality can be restored temporarily by (gently) bashing a hammer against the pilot so the brushes make contact again. But after a while things have to come apart so everything can be cleaned and sanded up. This year I noticed the brushes are close to gone . Raymarine sells those gadgets separatly of course , drapped with a first class price as you can imagin. So I ordered some brushes in my favorite country and grinded them to the proper size. www.benl.ebay.be/itm/330811321083?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649They have all sizes . Anyway , when your pilot ceases to cooporate , you feel small and helpless. And since the electric motor is the most vulnerable part i would like to carry along a spare . You managed to replace yours rather cheaply , so what would you suggest for my ST6000. Advice is appreciated. Regards. |
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Post by tedp on Nov 20, 2012 11:29:34 GMT
My replacement motor wasn't exactly cheap at around 60 GBP, but apart from the pinion gear it was the correct type. I cannot imagine a replacement motor for the ST6000 would be much more expensive. My motor came from this source, and they were most helpful when I had questions about the pinion size: www.jgtech.com/shop14.htmI suggest you contact them and ask what a replacement motor would cost. Alternatively you could look at the type markings on your motor and see if any of them are available on thr free market, but it may mean you'll have a motor with the wrong shaft diameter, as shown by cas206. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2012 1:34:15 GMT
I was told to cut some burs in the motor shaft and then stick gear on with loc tite. Apparently tapping burs on motor shafts is common practice with the RC crowd. I haven't tried it though as I've discovered the control head has a problem...the Low Battery problem. The control head displays low battery when put in Auto. The motor isn't activated. I've discovered paper work from the previous owner that shows he sent it to Raymarine for repair. They responded that the "drive circuit" was bad and that the parts were no longer available. He was offered an XPS-5 replacement. The paper work states unit was returned due to lack of response...lol.
If I get a working control head, I may get back to the motor/gear issue. I need to see how much I can remember from my ancient circuits class. The drive circuit is reminiscent of a rectifier circuit using four FET transistor rectifier devices.
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Post by tedp on Aug 27, 2014 20:06:53 GMT
Two years on, the ST4000+ has performed reasonably well most of the time. The secret is to reef well down and relieve the rudder by playing the sails. However, I came across another problem.
Flux gate compass problem?
No data message on autopilot
During the recent trip down to the Delta described elsewhere, I occasionally noticed the autopilot losing track and the rudder hunting wildly. In each case the unit reported 'no data', which I put down to corroded wire connections to the compass and to the other Seatalk units. On some occasions the flux compass reading was wrong. I took the unit out of the cockpit coaming and cleaned all the connectors, then all seemed to be well.
Flux compass reading wrong
However, today, after a month without sailing, I had similar problems. The rudder started hunting and the boat went off course. Twice, this happened under engine when I increased revs over 2500RPM which in this boat causes vibration. The compass readout each time went 20 degrees out of synch with the magnetic compass. Re-starting the system had no effect - the flux compass kept reading wrong. After this episode, I sailed on with the flux compass reading wrong, but the autopilot working normally.
Voltage problem?
As it happened with increased revs on the engine, I first thought perhaps the voltage regulator was to blame, however the voltage over the batteries under charge is about 14V at all throttle settings from idle to max.
Cable problem?
The next idea was the vibration aggravating a hidden cable problem, or possibly a circuit in the compass itself. The compass is on a three metre (10ft) lead. It is an old unit which I installed because it had a long lead and I wanted the flux compass further forward.
Replacement compass fitted
I came into harbour with the flux gate compass reading wrong. Then I connected another flux compass on a short 1 metre lead, which I had kept as a spare. This read exactly right. I ran the engine up to 3000RPM with the prop engaged, to re-create the conditions that led to the problem earlier. No reaction - the compass readout is rock steady.
Does this sound familiar to anyone? Tomorrow I'm going to run sea trials.
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Post by tedp on Aug 28, 2014 15:00:56 GMT
Reporting back after sea trials completed during our passage today, the replacement flux gate compass performs without a hitch. The flux compass readout is within a few degrees of the magnetic compass on every course.
I tried the autopilot with the engine on and for a few moments ran the diesel at 3000+ revs. There was no change in the compass readout, nor did the autopilot malfunction (i.e. the rudder hunting, or the boat going off course). So I suppose the problem was in the old compass or the cable.
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Post by tedp on May 30, 2016 13:48:47 GMT
Thread updated after re-hosting the photos, May 30, 2016.
The photos had disappeared due to the demise of the Dutch language Jeanneau forum.
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Post by kiaora on Sept 15, 2017 21:29:50 GMT
Hello Tedp
I am Emmanuel from France.
I found your raymarine linear actuator post.
I also burn my motor.
I am easily able to remove the screw part tube, and the rear plastic part (where the electric cable come),
But I didn't found how to remove the motor from the tube... do I must unscrew the plastic part of the pinion gear side? (I try but look like very hard or glued ..).
So could you tell me how the motor is mount ? and the way to remove it (is there a screw somewhere?)
Best Regards.
Emmanuel
France.
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