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Post by so36idavid on Feb 8, 2014 5:45:25 GMT
Debenboy, 6V golf cart batteries are a very good solution; but with the (limited space) boxes you might like to consider our SO36i fit: In original box - 2X Trojan 30XHS, 130AH, wet, deep cycle batts In well aft of the shower (2 cabin version) - original start batt Dimensions: www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/30XHS - they fit perfectly in the original box. I have the same boat and am confronting the same problem. My house and starter batteries are currently under the quarterberth. I measure that battery box at 9 7/8" (251mm). The link you supply lists the 30xhs height at 248mm so it squeezes in there but the Trojan site lists it at 256mm which just doesn't fit. I guess I need to get my hands on some actual batteries... Did you add any additional ventilation to the battery box? I'm a bit concerned about charging heat and venting of hydrogen gas. Thx David
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Post by sailbleu on Feb 8, 2014 6:34:24 GMT
Debenboy, 6V golf cart batteries are a very good solution; but with the (limited space) boxes you might like to consider our SO36i fit: In original box - 2X Trojan 30XHS, 130AH, wet, deep cycle batts In well aft of the shower (2 cabin version) - original start batt Dimensions: www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/30XHS - they fit perfectly in the original box. I have the same boat and am confronting the same problem. My house and starter batteries are currently under the quarterberth. I measure that battery box at 9 7/8" (251mm). The link you supply lists the 30xhs height at 248mm so it squeezes in there but the Trojan site lists it at 256mm which just doesn't fit. I guess I need to get my hands on some actual batteries... Did you add any additional ventilation to the battery box? I'm a bit concerned about charging heat and venting of hydrogen gas.Thx David This is what's it's all about. Excuse me , but I really don't understand people using a bunch of wet batteries anymore. They're venting quite a bit during charge , and imagin - just imagin - getting upside down for on reason or the other , all that acid running out. AGM dont vent that much , can be installed in every position and are fairly resistant to deep cycle. Gel's are way overprised , sensitive to the correcxt charging cycle so the benefits do not outweigh the price. Regards
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Post by so40gtb on Feb 17, 2014 4:45:58 GMT
The 12V system upstream from the distribution panel has consumed much of my attention for the past two weeks. My third house battery, of questionable repute, committed suicide in December. So I've looked long and hard at what's aboard and where I think Voyageur should go. Here's the plan:
1. External Balmar regulator for the Hitachi 80A alternator, to match the charging characteristic to the house batteries. This required re-wiring of the Hitachi alternator to convert it from internally-regulated "N-type" to externally regulated "P-type". This has been done and documented for a future H&T article. The post on Cruiser's Forum regarding Hitachi modification should NOT be followed.
2. Balmar Duo-Charge DC-to-DC converter between the house and starter batteries, this unit is programmed for the charging characteristic of the starter battery, which will be different than that of the house battery.
3. New AGM house batteries, most likely 2x6V Lifelines in each of the two battery boxes. Why AGM? The outboard starboard battery on the SO40 cannot be accessed without removing the inboard one, which, coupled with batteries lying underneath the aft berth, makes water level maintenance in flooded batteries very unpleasant. The recently-demised battery met its fate by being in that position and being "maintenance free" (hah!). And the quick-recharge advantage of AGM.
4. Relocate the starter battery, location TBD, leaving only the house batteries in the boxes beneath the aft berth. It remains a flooded type.
5. New A - A+B - B switch for the two house banks, which will usually be left in A+B per Nigel Calder's analysis of discharge percentages.
6. New Xantrex charger/inverter tied to the house batteries, AC output to feed cabin outlets only to avoid inadvertent water heater and air conditioner loads.
7. New Xantrex battery monitor unit
8. Significant re-wiring of the disconnects and such above the engine to implement all of the above, plus cable upratings where appropriate and rework as necessary to ensure compliance with ABYC standards.
9. New AC distribution sub-panel for inverter/charger AC output.
10. 20A AC breaker in main panel for charger/inverter feed
11. Solar panels sufficient to carry normal load while sailing port-to-port, with associated regulator.
Yes, it's become the "major spring project".
--Karl
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Post by sailbleu on Feb 17, 2014 7:48:32 GMT
Love the part where you mention an article for the H&T section , although I'm not sure Malcolm is still interested in all that work involved I think it's rather quiet on that front ,new articles that is , it's been some time now. But I guess it's probably up to us to satisfy his appetite in that regard. Having said that , you're in for some serious challenges Karl , do keep us briefed. Regards
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Post by sailor666 on Feb 17, 2014 9:00:17 GMT
I for one would be very interested in understanding the proven process of converting an Hitachi N type alternator to P type so as to work with a Balmar 612 regulator.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 9:29:52 GMT
On FEB 8 so36idavid posted: "Did you add any additional ventilation to the battery box? I'm a bit concerned about charging heat and venting of hydrogen gas".
David - no additional venting and no heat or gassing. My electrical knowledge very limited, but with the only a 70A alternator charging 330A of batteries, would not have expected overcharging. No problems over three years; SUNSET now sold.
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Post by sailbleu on Feb 18, 2014 7:08:10 GMT
Gerry , it's when your batteries wear down or/and get sulfated , you get overcharging and consequently excessive gassing. It doesn't happens over night , you don't get a particular warning or so. Once you notice you have to add water more frequently an indication is given. But it's not just wearing down or deep cycling (sulfate) the batteries that causes overcharging. A few years ago my battery isolator broke down , the alternators compensating wire (connected after the isolator , on the windlass battery output) did not sense any voltage therefore opened the gate (to house battery and engine battery) driving up the voltage all the way up to the red zone on my panelmeter , it was out of range so I have no clue how high the voltage went. I also don't know how along that was going on The engines compartment blower burnt out and I was very lucky it was just that. Well it wasn't just that , also my household battery got a serious kick in the *ss and was completely dry , so it was probably overcharging for some time , I accidently noticed the high voltage when I checked the batteries status while motoring. Since then I have a combined display showing me voltage and why not ,...also temps A raid display Switches over every few minutes or so from temp to voltage , the color circle continiously shows the selected temp. Regards
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